Rob Posted November 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2007 Paul, I think it says that on the bottle. On the US website it says: "using our AUTO-MIX UNIT. Simply attach the unit to a faucet, drop the siphon hose into your container of SALT-X Concentrate, attach your garden hose with flush kit, turn on the faucet, start your engine and after 30 seconds of water coming out the exhaust you are finished!! " I will check the instructions on the bottle and get back to you. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted November 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2007 Paul, I quote from the bottle "Mix 3 caps =(15ml) Salt-x per 1 litre of water in a clean container that your motor or lower unit will fit into. Make sure to COMPLETELY SUBMERGE the water intake. Run engine on fats idle until water begins to exit exhaust port. Then run for 15 seconds and shut off" Therefore I assumed that Salt-X should not be circulated for an extended period via the impellor via the engine running. The only way to see if you have a build up is remove the thermostat, on mine it is a 1 minute job. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinbad Posted November 23, 2007 Report Share Posted November 23, 2007 Rob Thanks - its one job I want to do - and my saltx arrived today, confirming what you say. I dont know why there might be a prob with circulating for longer, unless the water gets too warm and the salt x goes to goo. I've asked "jake" so shall post a response if I find anything. Regards Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coddy Posted November 24, 2007 Report Share Posted November 24, 2007 Don't forget NOT to tip all the mixture away but bottle as much as you can. It can then be re-used to wash rods and reels after a trip! Coddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinbad Posted November 25, 2007 Report Share Posted November 25, 2007 This email received from jake at saltX "Hi Paul Your on the right track with using a container, you will need to run the engine to get it up to temperature so that the engine stat opens, of course the water in the container will get warm this will depend on the size of your container? To how fast this happens you should be able to run the engine for 5-10 minutes, if you let the water in the container and engine cool over night you can then run it again and all you have to do is repeat the proses there is no need to change the solution in the container as this will keep for about a week. " Food for thought... I'm either going to use a container, or rig it up to the deckwash pump, with the thermostat removed.. Paul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coddy Posted November 25, 2007 Report Share Posted November 25, 2007 (edited) Thought I would add my two penies worth in here I thought I would carry out a bit of maintainance on the engine this week-end. Found a tub big enough to fit my Mariner 60 4-stroke into but it needed so much water to fill it enough to cover the intake holes that I did not have enough SaltX to dilute. I worked it out I need about 80+ltrs in the tub! Instead I did a bit of a strip down of the engine to check and found it not too bad from what I could see. I think the best way is to remove the stat and using Paul's idea is to back pump the water in via the pee hole. This way you don't have to use loads of mixed water which is wasteful and exspensive. Just got to find the right adaptor that screws into the pee hole! However did find that the engine required some engine oil to top it up to max, when was the last time YOUchecked yours? Coddy Edited November 25, 2007 by Coddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seamouse Posted November 26, 2007 Report Share Posted November 26, 2007 I think the best way is to remove the stat and using Paul's idea is to back pump the water in via the pee hole. This way you don't have to use loads of mixed water which is wasteful and exspensive. Hi Dave, For my 4hp auxiliary, I found I could easily backflush with Salt-X using a 50ml syringe and filling tube. I see no reason why that could not be scaled up to a bigger engine, especially one with an existing hose adaptor. On a more general front, Salt-x's intentions are clearly to get the Salt-x circulating then shut down the engine, i.e they are leaving it in to 'soak'. Wouldn't get the engine warm enough in 30 seconds to open the stat, as pointed out, and requires huge volumes in a barrel. For those with flushing adaptors, I'd suggest warming the engine fully on earmuffs so that the stat is most definitely open, shut off the engine then gravity feed warm Salt-x in through the flushing port. That way you'll get past the stat and only have to use a litre or two of the stuff. The gravity feed is easy, just a hose to the flushing adaptor, a funnel at the business end and fill it from as high above the engine as you can reach. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinbad Posted November 26, 2007 Report Share Posted November 26, 2007 Judging by how long it takes during flushing to see any water coming out of the telltale, it would need a fair amount pushed in via the telltale. I am using the flush connection mainly, but didnt consider trying to fill up and soak. I've been thinking about doing this - and would have to block off the water intakes and the exhaust? port - as the flush connection produces water from here and the pee hole. Or use robs plastic bag aproach to catch it and recirc it back. Using an external pump at least allows you to run for hours with a small amount of solution. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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