Brakes and bearings

[Manic Moore]

 

 

Decided to give the brakes and bearings the once over ready for the Burnham trip.

 

Its a year since I replaced the shoes and bearings and yet the shoes had started to peel off, and one had completed detached. (I guess that was why it was binding last time out)

 

Its got to about an hour and a half per side, taking it steady and checking that everything is working and bolted upo tight.

 

I will be really interested to hear if you guys who have done the flush kits end up with a longer life for your money.

 

Also interestingly, I have bearing savers and they were still in perfect condition, even the grease was still good to carry on. (I did buy decent bearings and grease from a bearing supplier direct)

 

One more interesting point, decided to check with indespension the tyre pressures as they looked a bit low, but still at 34 where I last pumped them up. Indespension said 50!

 

What a difference to the handling, no more pulling and tugging at the back of the car.

 

All ready to go now.

[Rob]

 

Gordon,

 

You might find that the tyres should be 50psi - main are. They are diffenent to car tyres being 6 or 8 ply and are designed to run at higher pressures.

 

The side of the tyre should say what pressure for the required weight.

 

Rob

[Sinbad]

87psi for a 950kg weight on mine which sounds huge, so I prorater it downwards to about 60psi, or wait until my weight on the foot pump stops adding any more air!

 

Edited April 9, 2008 by Sinbad

[Bob F]

Gordon,

 

A tip that Paul D suggested for helping to stop the brake pads falling off...

 

Most of us reverse the trailer into its parking spot at home, and back it upto the chocks so you don't need to put the handbrake on. The thinking being that leaving the handbrake off will stop the brake pad binding on (and then snapping off a week or so later when you next take the boat out).

 

However, apparently, reserving the trailer straight onto the chocks will still mean that the pads are slightly on (because off the anti-reverse mechanism I think).

 

So the tip is to reverse into the parking position and then move the trailer forward slightly to release the pads fully. Then put the chocks behnd the wheels and leave the handbrake off.

 

The other main reason for loosing your brake shoes is thought to be putting the trailer into water whilst the brakes are still hot. Indespension recommend that you wait 20 mins before putting the trailer into water.

 

Teaching to suck eggs again.

[Gazza]

I don`t know if you can still do this but i can remember getting some drum brakes re-lined.

 

these were screwed down as well as stuck....but i cannot remember the place to go . I know it use to be in a back road off Winton. They moved to a industrial estate 'somewhere' but i can`t even remember their name.

 

sorry

 

Gary

[Manic Moore]

 

Thanks Bob

 

I am fortunate that my trailer goes in the drive front first (more of a pain getting it in and out) so the brakes staying on was only an issue when the pad had come away.

 

Is the tip about delay in launching to do with the bearings or both? Although there does not seem to be a problem with them heating up. When ever I have checked the wheels for over heating they have always been cool (again except when the pad came loose)

 

 

Regards

 

 

Gordon

[Paul D]

When ever I have checked the wheels for over heating they have always been cool

at least when they were both there

[Bob F]

...sorry Gordon, I can't give you a sensible reply at the moment. I'm still in stiches over Paul's little jibe.

[Paul J]

Me too

 

PJ

[Coddy]

The theory about allowing the bearings to cool normally is that if immersed in cold water the contraction of metal will suck in water through the seals!

 

Now I don't know how true this is but I do know that I never used to get water up to the drums when launching, except at Baiter slip, so it stopped the brakes linings coming away from the shoes. It is normally rust bubbling under the linings that cause the problem!

 

Coddy

[Rob]

[Fugazi]

I will be really interested to hear if you guys who have done the flush kits end up with a longer life for your money.

 

I have unsealed bearings on my trailer and have just replaced them after three seasons use, I'm hoping to double the life with the flush kit fitted. Having always launched as soon as possible after arriving at the slip and not worried about a cool off period doesn

[Coddy]

Gordon

 

I use to strip the bearings/brakes twice a year and no painting only waterproof grease on moving parts and backplate.

Seemed to last well without problems.

 

On thing I would reccomend is to disconnect the brake cables and pour a little desiel down the outer/inner cables and work the cables up & down.

 

I think a lot depends how far you submerge the trailer for launching.

 

Coddy