Barry

I had this problem. I found the only cure was to keep the cables as far apart as possible as well as the aerials. Also found a big improvement running the VHF off its own dedicated feed from the battery. Still with a switched fused line.

The best place I've found for refurbing props is Steel Developments. A google search will throw up the web site. They've refurb'd my prop for me on a number of occasions. For 36 quid you can't go wrong.

If your going for an auto then check it has, or fit, a transmission cooler. Most don't come with them some do. You WILL need it if your towing any distance/weight. Its very easy to boil the trans fluid.......I've done it on more than one occasion! Personally I prefer a manual for towing.

Dan, 4hp on your boat will be too small if theres any tide running. It'll keep you out of trouble at best. I've a 21ft Tremlett and a 4hp 4 stroke mariner. It will just push the thing along at slack water. Ok I never really got it as an aux. It was purchased for the dinghy that gets used as a tender when the family want to play. Realisticaly a 6 will just about do it, but I would err on the safe side and go for 8horses as a min. Get a bracket and offer it up to determine wether you need a long or short shaft. If the prop isn't in deep enough you'll loose propulsion when the boat lifts and rolls in a swell. Steering with an aux on your type of boat is a right royal pain. Been there done that. I'got hold of an extention handle which makes things a bit easier.

I found these stainless rod holders easy to use. They don't mount on rails tho. 360 degree all round and from vertical to 30 degree. http://www.marine-hardware.co.uk/acatalog/...Holders_19.html

The consant is the waterline length. This formula only works for full displacement boats. Planning type hulls are a different kettle of fish altogether. Even then its not totally accurate as you rally need to take into account the thrust from different propellers. There is another formula that will give the theoretical top speed of a full displacent hull using the waterline length. A little prog on the Steel Developments site is a bit more applicable to planning hulls as it will give prop sizes for given hull lengths/motor hp outputs. But then prop sizes is a whole subject by itself.

I think we're talking about different things. The stuff I used comes on a roll 4 mtrs wide from a flooring co.

On past boats I've used a floor covering that is used behind the bars in pubs. It looks smooth but is actually rough to the touch. I've also seen it used in wet areas. I've a bit left over here in the garage but not sure it would be enough to do your deck. Go to a local flooring company and I'm sure that they'll be able to sort you some out. It'll be a fraction of the cost of Treadmaster.

Thanks, but I'm going to have to amend my profile as I'm nowhere near eighty! 40 today all down hill from now on!

I've a little Bonwitco for pottering around the harbour in. Great little boats for what they are. Great hull and should be ok pottering around poole bay in the right conditions. Can be a bit heavy for pulling over a beach but given a half decent slip you'd have no probs. With the 20 hp it will really fly. I use and ancient mariner 20 on mine which gives a good turn of speed. Kimmeridge shpould present few problems with your boat taking the weather/seastate into consideration.

Most interested. Whats sort of condition?

http://easytide.ukho.gov.uk/EasyTide/EasyTide/index.aspx

Its messy if you get it wrong. Putting the gun over the hole, as described above, is the best way. Compress it then release the bleed valve while pulling the plunger and repeat. I've given up on those now and got hold of a gun that runs of the compresser. The grease comes in cartridges akin to silicon sealent tubes that just load into the gun. Looking at the cost its slightly more expensive but theres a hell of a lot less waste.

With a title like "Rod and Reel suggestions" you'll be here until next year! Everyones got their own preferences. For heavier fishing I haven't found better value than a Shakespeare XK3000 50lb class rod. Full carbon job for less than 50 quid. Its got backbone when required yet has a sensitive tip to indicate "light" bites. You'll not go wrong with Penn reels. I've had one for longer than I care to remember. Never let me down never failed to perform. "clunky" by todays standards but very well engineered. Shimano's are worth their weight in gold. The Charter specials should be twice the price. Well made and reliable. The lever drag is faultless. If your used to a star drag then levers can take some getting used to user wise. It all boils down to How much do you want to spend? I find a lot of tackle dealers will give you something if your spending a few quid on a couple of outfits. Theres a lot of capable tackle out there its finding the dealer thats going to give you "The deal"

G3 is a polishing compound made by Fareclea. Its fairly course and good for taking out blemishes. After using that I'd finish of with some G10 which is a finishing compound. It really puts the shine on the finish. After that I'd apply a good teflon wax for a lasting protection......christ I sound like an advert on a cable shopping channel!