will church Posted September 21, 2012 Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 Not quite 'boat talk' so sorry, but there's no trailer talk section! I have found a decent trailer at the right price for my boat. It's a Rollercoaster 1.3HE, which apparently maxes out at a 4.9m hard boat (longer for rib) - mine's a Shetland 535. Does anyone know if this is a suggested maximum with a margin for error, or if there'd be a real issue towing a boat 45cm longer on it? Many thanks as ever Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oysterboats Posted September 21, 2012 Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 Hi can you not move the winch post to accommodate the extra 45 cm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will church Posted September 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 That had crossed my mind too, but it's as far forward as it will go - butting up against the braking tow hitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wedger Posted September 21, 2012 Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 ...................and or the balance - moving the axle. will your man let you try it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will church Posted September 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 good shout wedger - looks like the axle is simply fitted with U clamps, so could probably be moved back a bit. It's not local, 2 hours drive away, so I kind of think if I buy it, I buy it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hooky Posted September 21, 2012 Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 Should be no problem , mines the same size on my Shetland Sunstrike(same as 535) Balance wise, mine is fine, I think it all depends on your engine weight (actutally mine will be fine when i get another engine on it ). You could always use a bit of ballast in the front of the boat Or (in my case) attach weights (dumbells) to the nose of the trailer. Because my trailer is slightly short, I have also rigged up a drop down ramp complete with extra roller (hinged) doofer . This also doubles up as the electric winch pulley . Just discovered this "reverse winching thing". If i ever get sorted out Im going to take a few piccys of me doing a single handed launch/ recovery from Baiter. If nothing else it should give out a few when it all goes wrong. Newbies eh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted September 21, 2012 Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 Im going to take a few piccys of me doing a single handed launch/ recovery from Baiter. Be using your third hand for photography hey! Very impressive!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will church Posted September 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 Thanks Hooky, really helpful - I just knew someone here would have practised at it first! Picking up a yam 2 cylinder 55hp tomorrow. Now off to do a deal!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will church Posted September 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 Actual fact mine's a 536 anyway - so would be the same as yours, Hooky, but with a bigger cabin. Any photos of your magic trick would be welcome! Cheers all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey B Posted September 21, 2012 Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 Simply extend the draw bar and move the winch post forward. In my case the tow vehicle was too close to allow the tail gate to open. I extended the draw bar by 500mm using 100 x 8mm channel with 500mm overlap. I would also recommend replacing the pressed steel tow hitch with the more substantial cast iron version. Fit tubes inside the box section to avoid crushing when tightening the HTS bolt. A few coats of silver Hamerite paint will help with corrosion. I also moved the axle forward to give the required nose weight. Mikey B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverick Martin Posted September 21, 2012 Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 Mikeys suggestion is spot on. You need support at or very near the transom of the boat to support the weight of the engine. If you do without support here you risk causing damage to the rear end of the boat Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnasher Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Mikeys suggestion is spot on. You need support at or very near the transom of the boat to support the weight of the engine. If you do without support here you risk causing damage to the rear end of the boat Martin Spot on. Mine isn't balanced very well at all and I can't get to the engine without the front popping up.....Luckily no damage yet, but I have done a couple of high speed wheelies! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will church Posted September 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 the other option i have is a rollercoaster 2 trailer, which is rated at 860gross 600kg net, whichis about 100k lightfor my boat. it needs brakes re rigging etc and it's cheap enough fo me to afford a new axle rated 1.3t. Is it mad to start thinking like this? Thanks again Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Last weekend I upgraded my trailer to braked. It is a superb Admiral R600, they do a braked one for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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