Bramble banker Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 Hi guys, hopefully somebody has a bit of a bright idea about this one, My Wilson flyer has two pieces of ply that have completely rotten away as a transom. it came to light when we had a new engine fitted a year ago and as with any big problem it was swept under the carpet for a rainy day... That day has now come! In 2010 I stripped the floor out as read about the issues with regards to the foam filled deck and uncovered a major project... The previous owner had replaced the deck with ply ( rotten ) and for "buoyancy" filled the whole underside with 2ltr coke bottles half of which were filled with water!!! 😔. I lifted the floor and undertook the major job of replacing all of the ribs and buoyancy sections correctly, it now has a honeycombed board made from plastic as the floor and it is SOLID! This being said, I was expecting some problems with the transom but really wanted to get fishing by September and everything seamed in order. when we up rated the engine, the first drilling of the holes when water was pissing out I decided it really needed doing and soon, I stated to research the best product to use, the only talked about material is ply and ply. I spoke with my dad and he suggested ply for the strength in the core but I don't know how I feel about it. I would really like to use a product the will not rot especially because you drill holes in it for the engine and other transom mounted item such as transducer bait pump exc. I am thinking of making the whole section out of glass and resin but I have concerns about the strength, yes it will be very strong but will it be able to take the stress? Would really like to hear other peoples view on this, I have added a photo of that's there at the moment 💩 Many thanks G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mal Thomas Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 I dont know a lot about boat building, however I know a little about ply, there are many types of ply, the standard ply in the builders merchant is not a good quality. The marine plys have more laminates of a better quality timber and water resistant glue is used, the price is also much more expensive and the board is stronger and slightly heavier. The capping with resin and glass fibre should waterproof the sandwhich and when drillng holes fill them with sixafix or similar to keep the water out. I believe modern boat builders are moving away from this method but it was good enough for many years. By the way is the channel shown where the ply locates, if so was the old ply sucking up water held in the channel? I assume also the transom would be at least two thicknesses of 18mm ply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay kay Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 Have a look on wsf mate. Plenty of info on there and a lot of people that have rebuilt their wilsons. A guy on there called garry23flyer who will answer almost any question you may have. Good luck Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 Yes, read Garry23flyers massive post about his build. Worth a read! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
great white Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 Are you saying that the whole transom was ply, or was it the strength between two facings of GRP Had a flyer that I also redecked and did loads of other big jobs. Including beefing up the transom for a new engine That boat gave me the confidence to fit out my last two Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bramble banker Posted April 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 Thanks lads, now a proud member of wsf and have the app!! I'll try and pick gary23flyer's brains on it. It's a ply core in her with grp skins on either side ATM but would like to do it once knowing like with all the other work I've done it will last indefinitely so to me wood isn't the answer... I will try and drag out my pics I took of the work I did and as others have done do a bit of a blog. I cannot seem to find gary23s blog only him trying to get monies donated to finish his project.... G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 235 pages and 2300+ posts! http://www.worldseafishing.com/forums/boat-owning-equipment-maintenance/365977-wilson-flyer-23-build.html Shame a load of the photos have gone! Bramble banker 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
great white Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 I thought that it was that way I Would cut out the inner face of the grp, leaving about 2 inches in from the edges where the GRP is thick You could then easily remove all of the existing wood and clean up the transom. You can then make up a new plywood transom out of the right thickness of marine ply. Make this in two halves port and stbd will allow you to fit it into the slot around the edges, a doubler can be put over the centre join to beef it up for the engine. Treat the timber with resin before fitting, and use the same to fix the timber to the original outer skin, the glass over the whole inner face of the wood. If you want to talk it through give me a call 07887 794716 Charlie Steve S, Bramble banker and Jim 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hooky Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Please check on this, it's something I read somewhere , sometime. Many types of boats used ply To create a form for the fibreglass matting, this ply was of poor quality it was never the intention to add strength to some areas. It was used to create the ribs over the hull years ago, my old Shetland had this, it was all coated over with very thick layers of glass and resin. If the. Transom flexes or looks weak I think you need to apply some serious extra layers around the joins to the hull. You could also then add a checker plate reinforcer over that ( gets bonded in by resin) If it's a ' genuine' Wilson' I'm sure the initial lay -up was very good, You should give 'wedger' a pm as he had one for a while and did the same thing. Bramble banker 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bramble banker Posted April 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Sounds good lads, on wsf one of the lads suggested a special slow curing polyester resin especially designed for this situation! The only problem is that they are in Florida USA! I am in the process of contacting them to see I they are prepared to ship it, I cannot find anything even remotely near to it.. The product is called seacure" and there are loads of videos on YouTube. It has a lifetime warrantee that in my experience with American warrantees is a good thing. Thoughts gentlemen? G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bramble banker Posted April 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 235 pages and 2300+ posts! http://www.worldseafishing.com/forums/boat-owning-equipment-maintenance/365977-wilson-flyer-23-build.html Shame a load of the photos have gone! Thanks rob just looked at the few 250 or so pages of it !!! Lol G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bramble banker Posted April 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 *Seacast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
great white Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 You could use standard resin to treat the wood after shaping and scribing in to the boats shape I would treat the hidden side and edges first with plain resin (no hardener) and let it soak in, 2nd coat with hardener. Then fix it in the boat witha resin with minimal hardener, The glassing over the fwd face and lockers either side of the engine give it a lot of strength, as would doubling up the timber in the centre where the engine bolts on. Remember to consider the weight, it is essential to get the power to weight ratio right, as well as the balance and bouyancy. That is the reason that there is very little timber in alfresco and a lot of composite board known as needoplas. This material is light and flimsy, until its fitted and glassed in, then it becomes light and tough. The decks are made that way. Nice DIY project Charlie Hooky 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bramble banker Posted April 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Sounds good Charlie, maybe we should have a chat if your going to the next meet, I am planing to get there...! I really like the look of this resin and if I can get hold of it I may give it a go just to satisfy my curiosity. I used a honeycombed board that may well have been needoplas / similar for my floor plastic and flimsy but when glasses up i tested and a hammer at full whack bounced I am moving the steering position forward and having two swivel chairs as far forward as I dare to get a better balance and stop the slap the flyers are so well known for! Trial and error from before! G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
great white Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Sounds like a good idea to talk it over I will be at the meeting next week. Bramble banker 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hooky Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 What engine are you putting on? I have noticed a few flyers with some monsters bolted on ! Am I correct in thinking the normal motor is between 50/ 70 ? I have been out one that is a 20 ft+ ( didn't know they even made them!) it has a old Merc 75 and was a VERY quick and decent platform, I did notice it did 'slam' a fair bit when the conditions were less than perfect ! Would it be the case that the heavier the motor the worse the 'slam'? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
great white Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 The flyers will always slam in the wrong conditions, but on a good day they are an excellent fishing boat. Mine was heavily built, and fitted with a 2 stroke 60. She went very well and was as safe as houses. Alfresco is just like a bigger version, on some days we have to slow her down to stop shaking out the fillings, but on others we can cover the miles very well. horses for courses and all that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Every boat is a compromise, the answer, more than one boat!!! Paul J and Bramble banker 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bramble banker Posted April 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 I have a yam 70, I find on a flat day we can really open up and A-B is a joy of a ride and as Charlie said if and when a bit choppy it's just a case of bringing her down to 10knots and a decent ride. I am hoping by bringing the seating positions from the back to right up the front I'll have her much flatter as trialling proved it was amazing the difference the location of the weight made! Just want to get her finished AGAIN... I have had contact from seacast and they have a distributor in the Netherlands so looking promising! G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hooky Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 One thing that I have slowly come to the conclusion is that their is NO such thing as a cheap boat!! When they are ready to go, the weather gods decide to destroy your weekend. In perfect weather the boating gods decide to hide your keys to the padlock and chain attaching it to the trailer. So your sat down at Baiter, loaded up with worms and pies , your brand new battery decides develop typhus and spew it's contents into bilge . Stay calm, let's get it back on to the trailer, that's fine until the handle shears off the new winch. Rotten transoms, blown drive leg gaskets, irate and troublesome wife, my hernia has decided to make another un-expected appearance under the waterline . All great stuff this boating lark, especially when you blank. You are of course , all raving mad ! nightingale300 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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