Which one chaps

[TomBettle]

Quote... doing things to small boats

 

Not only illegal in public but very painfull as well!

 

Mad Mike

OooooooH

Watch those shards of fibreglass!

 

 

If I was you i would stick to the vacuum cleaner...

 

[Wedger]

Back to business lads.

 

Otter's Keel band.

I've looked at her bottom to assess the extent of deterioration & have concluded that age has taken it's toll .

 

The band would probably last a season if cleaned up, rust killed and sealed properly, providing she's not banged around too much. The good news, I think, is that the chappy who fitted this keel band at least had the gumption to use brass screws that should come out OK.

 

Is it best to fill and seal the old screw holes and start again, or try to measure and match to the original holes when fitting the new band? I think I would prefer to fill, seal and start again, but let me know your thoughts.

T

 

[Coddy]

Wedger

 

I personally would try to use the same holes. I did this on a Seahog I had once and it worked ok for me then.

 

I don't like adding holes to the bottom of a boat where I don't have too!

 

You could roll Otter on her side or right over and fill the holes with fibreglass resin then drill new ones, not so easy to fill when on your back thinking of England

 

I would not use Sykaflex (think thats how its spelt) to fill holes without something going in the hole if you know what I mean.

 

Coddy

[Afishionado]

I think 95% of the brass screws will have de-zinced over the years and will shear when you try to remove them. So the best bet is to drill new holes rather than even think about using the old holes. If you offer up the new keel band and wedge it into place then mark of where the best place for the holes to be on the steel, don't worry too much about even spacing 'cos no one will be seeing it underwater. You can then remove it and drill it in the workshop idealy on a pillar drill. Bed the new band down on a top quality mastic (sickoflex) when you do the final fix.

 

For screws I would recommend stainless steel 'turbo' screws from Screwfix. Brilliant grip in GRP.

 

Mad Mike

[Wedger]

Good thoughts guys,

 

Magic................. Mike,

 

Aaaah! Mr Screwfix!

 

Got bundles of those SS Turbos !

 

Had an offer of what was described as a 'bronze strap'. Waiting to find out if the dimensions are anywhere near but, Is bronze OK?

 

T

 

[Afishionado]

'bronze strap'.

 

Yes but it MUST be fixed with brass screws and connected to your sacrificial anode otherwise it and the screw will de-zinc and become soft and porous.

 

If the Bronze strap is not new test it by giving it a tap with a light hammer. You should hear a nice metallic 'TINK' , if it's just a sorta thud then it's been used under salt water without being protected by an anode and is bloody usless.

 

Personally if you can run to it I would go for stainless as it is far tougher and gives real protection if you do have a bump on a stony bottom.

 

Mad Mike

[Coddy]

They make props out of it so should ok

 

Coddy

[TomBettle]

They make props out of it so should ok

 

Coddy

A bronze prop that hasn't had protection from an anode will fall apart in a year or so.

 

Te same test with a hammer, a light tap should make a "tuneful" sound, but if you get a dull thud, you need a new prop.

[Afishionado]

They make props out of it so should ok 

 

Coddy

A bronze prop that hasn't had protection from an anode will fall apart in a year or so.

 

Te same test with a hammer, a light tap should make a "tuneful" sound, but if you get a dull thud, you need a new prop.

It also gets a distinct 'pinkish' hue when it has lost the zinc content.

 

All in all, underwater bronze is yesterdays technology and modern marine grades of S/S are far better. It's also worth saying at this stage of the thread that BRASS screws are useless underwater they are too soft and will waste away in no time. It is a common mistake to confuse brass screws with BRONZE screws. Bronze is darker and denser than brass so the feel and look of bronze is different from brass. True bronze is also a damn site more expensive than brass.

 

Mad Mike

[Wedger]

Mike,

 

I think we'll be going for 316 SS band and those fine Turbo SS scews from Jolly Mr. Screwfix.

 

T

 

Founder member of the 'Poole Bay Mi21 Owners Club', a subsection of PBSBAC

(Just too many Warriors dashing about the place)

[Wedger]

Mike,

 

I found a source of 316 SS at the right price I guess .

 

25mm x 6mm x 4000mm bar @

[Wedger]

Rich,

 

I didn't try Aalco 'cos these other people were so close seemed daft not to take it at the price!

 

Cheers for the tip anyway. I used them, (Aalco) for 'Ali' sheet some years back. Huge stock .

 

T

[Afishionado]

Quote.....No shortage of net around for a bag.

 

 

You can get landing net net??????????????????

 

You'll have a lot of takers for that stuff. Me for one!! Is it available to buy?

 

 

Mad Mike

 

 

PS For what it's worth I think a wooden shaft is much better for a landing net. Easier to grip, raw wood is none slip, and easier on the hands altogether.

 

PPS 6 mm is ideal, but freeze the gin and tonic before you drill it or it will run off the work bench.

[Wedger]

You can get landing net net??????????????????

Which one chaps ( landing net section )

 

Mike,

Depends on what you need it for!

 

I have tended to use a small mesh that is more fish friendly, than fisherman friendly thus far. IE a flat multiweave that is not abrasive to the fish (bit like fish farmer's net). Ya get ya hooks in it from time to time though. .

 

If you've a boat big enough for two nets, then a large heavier mesh can be used for the bigger tougher beasties like, MASSIVE blonde rays and GAS MAIN congers etc.

 

Very few of the freshwater anglers nets stand up to our environment. They were not designed to lift heavy fish over the gunwales with a good sea running. Most fish farming dip nets are very heavy and designed to hold lots of smallish fish in a smallish bag.

 

The medium weight, fish friendly, farmers nets are used by the Salmon farmers for handling their brood stock. They must be fairly big 'cos they are handling fish upwards of 20kgs

 

I'll make the appropriate enquiries.

 

Getting hold of most types of net to make your own bags for your specific requirements is not a problem. Just need to buy enough to make it worthwhile. Having said that, I know a couple of net makers!, I'll see what off-cuts they have .

 

Did you have anything specific in mind?

 

The frames should not present too much of a problem. I can get hold of a few stainless rods. The other partner in 'Otter' is a professional welder, and if he should come unstuck my chum from reading is a specialist stainless welder who spent a few years doing some fine work on posh boats in Lymington. We really just need to settle on the right materials and presto.

 

Handles also should be fairly easy. We use Ash which has just enough flex and lasts for ages if looked after.

 

Let me know what you consider to be the ideal pattern(s) for boat angling, then i can see what's around.

 

T

 

[toerag]

and GAS MAIN congers

There was a story going round Guernsey a couple of years ago about a conger seen in the Cherbourg fisherman's co-op that winter by a Guernsey skipper when he landed his catch there. It was caught in a trawl, only 7ft long but had a head like a 5 gallon drum. Allegedly it weighed 130.......KILOS!!!!

[Wedger]

.......

 

 

286 lbs 9.6oz

 

 

 

 

716.5% specimen weight.............!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I need a much much much bigger boat................

 

[Maverick Martin]

This thread is so far of the original topic it could/has become confusing.

 

Please try and keep subject matter in each thread relevant to the heading

 

I will close this thread

 

 

Martin

[Afishionado]

I agree Martin.......

 

I will open a new thread 'Landing Net' in the tackle forum.

 

Mad Mike