Jump to content

Anchor Rope


Bob F
 Share

Recommended Posts

Over the past couple of weeks I've been exchanging emails with a guy called Barry Edwards who deals in various types of ropes. A couple of our members have purchased rope from Barry, via eBay, and have been very happy with their purchases.

 

Most of our club needs seem to center around anchor rope, so Barry has been kind enough to offer this discounted pricing to PBSBAC.

 

The type most suited to our anchor needs is the 3 strand white nylon. It's coils very nicely, unlike the cheap potting rope which I've bought previously.

 

Barry will sell to our club on this basis, or to individual members if they quote 'Poole Bay'. He does similar with a diving club in the North East.

 

I have a sample of the 14mm 3 core, which I will bring along to the next meeting.

12mm is optimum for boats around the 5m size, and 100m is adequate for 95% of our anchoring needs in Poole Bay. On the occassions where slighlty more is needed, just splice in your old rope.

 

If two of you club together and buy the 200m coil and then cut it in half you will get a better deal.

 

All prices inc VAT

3 Strand White Nylon

 

10mm

100 metres (330 feet) -

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Blimey Dan,you must have the right coloured eyes.When I searched for the same size and liength,ropeseller was way above Edward's priceYou would be lucky to get tough string at that price ! Was this recently or when you first started boating,no disrespect intended ,but if he's still do-ing it , I'm up for buying reserve amounts...I was quoted

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fascinated by the anchor rope chat.

 

Edwards cheaper... Ropeseller cheaper... Ropeseller dearer etc

 

Feet and metres has been a confusing issue, as has price/diameter!

 

Also nylon vs other materials.

 

Two tests for inferior ropes (polypropylene/polyethylene), one of which you will already know:

 

1) Inferior ropes float, nylon rope doesn't, although it could then be polyester, good but not as stretchy.

 

2) The second test is little known: When a strong heat source (perhaps windproof lighter) is applied to nylon it melts yellowy brown, NOT black.

 

Outside of a chemical laboratory it's the best test of buying the real thing. Dodgy sellers would not be happy with a shop doorstep burn test, and a refusal could be a little test in itself! If it's polyprop or PE it could even catch fire and burn vigorously with black smoke. What fun. Misuse of the word 'nylon' is very common.

 

Edwards prices are very keen, service is quick, all sizes including 12mm are always in stock, and he offers none of the inferior alternatives to nylon. They are very cheap and worth their cost.

 

BF

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry but i seem to have missed out on discussions vis a vis nylon and polyprop

i read that they are both reasonably uv resistnt both stretch well but the poly is usually rougher to the touch and nylon sinks in our terms whart does this mean .

or am i stirring up old grounds

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The poly ropes float and therefore any lose ropes will float on the surface and in danger of fouling boat props. Just think lobster/crab potters with miles of floating ropes.

 

Nylon has stretch characteristics like oue mono. In condition where boat is rocking up and down, there's less chance of the anchor jumping as the rope will cushion some of the shock.

 

As Jack said, nylon is less likely to tangle/easier to untango. 3 strands are more likely to tango if you are coiling it anticlockwise(?), multiplait doesn't have this problem.

 

There are more but I just can't remember at the mo.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Exactly Jack.

 

I initially purchased the cheaper poly type (small times called pot rope) and wish I hadnt wasted my money. It does not coil well and easily tangles.

 

Having said that, if you are new to boating and anchoring, the cheaper rope might be a better option because you are quite likely to loose your first rope and anchor until you know what you are doing, in which case, you will not have lost too much money.

 

BF

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all

I am sorry to go against the tide of thought, so to speak, but I use poly prop which has never given me any cause of concirn.

 

I accept that it floats and that when swinging I have to keep an eye on it just in case, but as you rarely float directly over the anchor warp when the tide turns it is not a problem.

 

I accept that at the time money was and still isn't in abundance so it seemed a good alternitive to me.

 

Yes I have lost an achor, chain and a length of warp! mad.gif

 

I think it is horses for courses, if you accept the need to keep an eye on the condition of the warp and make sure you always know which direction the warp is lying, which you should do with any rope, I do not see a problem for the amount of use the rope gets.

 

Coddy

cool.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all

I am sorry to go against the tide of thought, so to speak, but I use poly prop which has never given me any cause of concirn.

 

I accept that it floats and that when swinging I have to keep an eye on it just in case, but as you rarely float directly over the anchor warp when the tide turns it is not a problem.

 

I accept that at the time money was and still isn't in abundance so it seemed a good alternitive to me.

 

Yes I have lost an achor, chain and a length of warp!  mad.gif

 

I think it is horses for courses, if you accept the need to keep an eye on the condition of the warp and make sure you always know which direction the warp is lying, which you should do with any rope, I do not see a problem for the amount of use the rope gets.

 

Coddy

cool.gif

Well Coddy, where do I start?

 

The RNLI and the RYA both advise the use of nylon rope for anchoring in preference to polyprop - so do all authoritive guides written by experienced and often qualified authors.

 

Unfortunately another use an anchor warp is utilised for is that of a 'tow rope'. Believe me ( or check with guides and professional rescuers) it much safer useing nylon rope for towing with a central snatch weight. This being due to the elasticity of nylon. Also nylon is at least 50% stronger than polyprop. Whilst hopefully you will never need the BS strength you should always be operating at a very small proportion of its strength due to wear & tear and tying knots instead of making splices.Cullodon on this thread said that poly streches - that is incorrect info.

 

There are too many strong arguements and examples I can give, demonstrating you should use poly for anchoring only as a temporary emergency.

 

Your advice/comments seem based on financial savings. Or, if I don't use it much - get it cheap? Your anchor is your boats safety brake!

 

Do not be angry at losing an anchor. some chain and a length of warp; it is part of boating - but sometimes lessens with more experience.

 

Do you really suggest you should compromise on safety for the sake of saving about

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had polypropylene rope to start with but having got nylon, I would never dream of using the stuff again.

I used the polyprop rope for dragging a weight along to slow my drift on the shambles. The weight I used was a folding anchor with a couple of prongs left out.

Unbeknownst to me , the weight was actually spinning slowly and the polyprop rope was slowly unravelling itself a right old mess.

 

Also the stuff deteriorates as it gets older ( at least mine seemed to ) going more "brittle/stiff" and is hard on the hands etc. etc.

 

Considering the cost of boating in general I think the extra cost of nylon rope is money well spent.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I spent the initial outlay on decent stuff and have never regreted it, it coils lovely, knots well and it a joy to use....

 

A comment I always remember from my time training for my current job to use with price consious cutomers, but will also apply to this -

 

" Youll remember the quality long after you forget the price "

 

And it is true, I try to apply it most things I buy ans you usually get what you pay for.

 

Adam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The reason I bought polyprop was that I got it very very cheap for 200mtrs. wink.gif

 

I have no problem in splicing it and have done so many times, have to say my splicing is not the best as I don't get the practice.

 

The diam of my warp is 14mm which is a bit too large for my Warrior but as for strength I have not had a problem to date. I always fit a swivel shackle between the chain and the warp which has a metal eye spliced in. I would never use any rope direct to chain or metal! I also would never tie a knot in any rope as this is a weak point.

 

I have not had any problem in coiling the rope but then again I do use a cut down water barrel to hold the rope.

 

As I said previously it has it limitations in length of life etc. but if you look after it and carry out regular checks I feel confident in its use at this time.

 

I agree that if I was buying again I would get nylon but 12mm as I think 10mm is too small to handle well. I also agree that nylon is softer to use.

 

Coddy

cool.gif

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...