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Alaska 500 Boat Mods


Bob F
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Hi Chaps,

 

I'm considering some mods to Splash-Out to fit a couple of pilot seats. Appreciate any comments on my plan.

 

The first problem I have is that the box that the pilot sits on is too close the the wheel so it is difficult to stand up with my size 11 feet. So. I want to move the box back.

 

This is the current set up.

post-6-1140208316.jpg

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And here's where I'd like to move it to.

 

The idea is to cut out a 4 inch section of the end of the seat, and use it to reform the seat futher back by glassing it back in.

 

The bench is in two parts. The seat bottom (walls) form one parts, and the seat forms a second part which is moulded into the sides of the boat.

 

I'm not too worried about cutting out the bottom part, but the seat top is moulded into the side walls and this might to difficult to match in and rebuild the missing section???

 

Appreciate your thoughts, tips, hints, etc.

 

cheers

 

BF

post-6-1140209432.jpg

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And this is roughly where I want to move it back to.

 

The ideal would be to cut the box as close the to deck as possible and then re-firbreglass it in.

 

I plan to put some new non-slip matting on the deck afterwards, so I'm not too concerned about the deck finish.

Bob

 

Cut around the actual deck rather than the seat pod itself. You can always glass a new bit of deck in, but if you cut into the pod you will always be left with a lip.

 

With regards to the seats, come and take a look what is fitted to our Merry Fisher 530 and 580. We actualy fit reversible seats rather than swivel seats to these boats. This allows the pod itself to be turned into a store by fitting a hatch in the top.

 

Come and take a look and all will make sense. I may be able to order the lot for you if you like what you see.

 

Tom

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i have looked at you pictures a bit more...

any part of a boat which is attached to the hull is strength.

aren't the bunks on the alaska filled with foam?

if not, this is a bit easier. you will need to access the bunks from the inside to make it look half decent (put a locker door in the top). you may be able to just chop say 12" out of the middle and then rejoin it so retain the original moulding.

does the ply deck run under the bunks? if they do, then it shouln't be too much of a problem.

 

i can supply new seat boxes at

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Steve,

 

Yes, that was my hope, to be able to cut out a 12" section and retain the orginal front moulding.

 

The bunkers are emplty, no foam. Apparantly, the foam is all under the deck.

 

The deck continues under the bunkers. Its even the same colour.

 

A couple of matching seat boxes on either side should look ok. Do you have to order the boxes in? I'm sometimes up your way so could arrange to drop by.

 

Paul, not sure about the reversable seats. The seat boxes sit very close to the gunnels, so I'm not sure there will be enough room for the swiveling arm. Also, I like the secured seating of a bucket seat which stops you sliding around.

 

BF

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Bob,

 

....you need a Warrior matey!! (or an Endeavour!) tongue.gif

 

Seriously - my two penneth worth...

 

I would go for pedestals, as I find they give alot more usable deck space - unless you are tight for storage (which I dont think you are) I know Warrior do them as an aftermarket additon - Im sure Steve does as well, and as you know I dont think any seats beat the buckets found on the Warriors IMHO. If you do go this way, you may need a ply base to re-enforce the pedestal - mine pulled out last year.

 

As Peter said - most things are possible, just take your time and youll be fine - if you need a hand just shout.

 

Fianlly - I think you are doing the right thing, the current set up isnt that practical.

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bob i is about in me workshop most evenings and in portland port most days but i do have a phone which i do answer sometimes , looking at the pictures the trickiest bit is matching the finish on the inside of the hull and the gell colour of the locker but i do think it is a bit of a test for a novice

 

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Thanks for the comments everyone.

 

Still contemplating pedestal vs box.

 

Box gives tidier storage space. Will be a more secure foundation for the seat. Not sure how good the fixing will be for a pedastal.

 

Pedastal will be give more deck space, but I haven't noticed this as an issue with the existing box. Knowing the way I bash things about I think I prefer the stronger fixing of the box.

 

Pete, yes, I agree, the colour matching and getting a smooth finish will be my biggest challenge for the bunks.

 

I'm pretty certain I want to go ahead with this, and a perfect finish will have to take second place to improved practicality and improved rides for the crew by having proper seating. I did an experiment with a temporary seat and the ride was much softer.

 

Thanks for the offers of help.

 

BF

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Hi Bob

 

I recently went out on a brand new Warrior 165 like mine except he had x2 box seats and I have pedestals.

Here are my thoughts as I was thinking of doing the same change of seating:

 

1 - I noticed that the box lip was right where you stand when driving or watching and became uncomfortable on the heels

 

2 - Boxes were too close for comfort for me, I am 6' 2" and long legged so annoying so say the least.

 

3 - The gap between the boxes was quite small, ok for me but anyone on the larger size might find it difficult and could be a safety hazzard. (just a thought)

 

4 - Advantage of boxes is extra storage but that means more weight carring around and if I had to move them back I would be sitting outside of the fishing cover.

 

5 - Advantage of boxes is that it does not creak unlike the pedestal.

 

6 - Downside cost of boxes to purchase!

 

So all in all I am going fix my creaking pedestal and keep what I have.

 

I accept this was a Warrior and not an Alaska but some of the thoughts may apply

 

Coddy

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Hi Coddy,

 

Actually, you've made some very good points here...

 

1 - I noticed that the box lip was right where you stand when driving or watching and became uncomfortable on the heels

 

This is the same problem I have got, although I thought it was because I was being pushed back onto the box by the wheel. I will have to check that when standing up my heels still do not touch the box.

 

2 - Boxes were too close for comfort for me, I am 6' 2" and long legged so annoying so say the least.

 

Yes, that's why I want to move it back.

 

3 - The gap between the boxes was quite small, ok for me but anyone on the larger size might find it difficult and could be a safety hazzard. (just a thought)

 

Will look at that, although the Alaska is slighty beamier than the Warrior.

 

4 - Advantage of boxes is extra storage but that means more weight carring around and if I had to move them back I would be sitting outside of the fishing cover.

 

Excellent point!! Need to check that I don't move myself outside the canopy. I've taken the canopy off for the time being, so didn't notice that!!

 

6 - Downside cost of boxes to purchase!

 

Cost is about he same as a Pedastal.

 

Thanks

 

BF

 

 

 

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Ive had another good look at the bunk construction. The wall of the bunk is just a simple sheet of flat solid fibre glass which is pasted to the deck with strips of fibre glass matting. So, it is a fairly simple job to cut along the matting to release the walls of the bunk.

 

The seat of the bunk is an integral part of the upper boat moulding, so I will have to cut part of this out for about 2 feet. There's a strengthening strut just over two foot in, so I will leave that in place. It's all pretty simple, but the tricky bit will be matching it back in again.

 

I also think I've decided to go for pedestals rather than seat boxes. The pedestals will give me greater flexiblility for the positioning of the seats, and gives me more room for my feet to stand infront of the wheel. Fitting a seat box would mean that the box would be just outside the coverage of the canopy (nice spot, Coddy!). Pedestal will also give more usable deck space. To compensate for the reduced storage, I'm going to fit access doors into the seat tops of the bunk. This will give easier access to the storage space under the bunk which I currently don't use much. This will also help keep the weight towards the bow which will help with the trim.

 

My major concern now is whether the deck is able to adequately support screwing in the pedestals. How can I check this???

 

If the deck needs more support for the pedestal mounting how would I fit this additional support and what would I use (Marine ply??)?

 

I will give Arnie Holt a call and ask him if the deck with be strong enough to mount the pedestals on, but would appreciate any words of advice from the forum.

 

cheers

 

BF

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Just had a word with Arnie.

 

The deck is 5mm fibre glass with 3/4 marine ply underneath, so he said it will be no problem to install the pedestals.

 

He adviced me to use #12 or #14 3/4" SS screws.

Drill only as deep as the fibre glass. You can also drill small pilot holes in the ply if needed.

 

Also suggested laying a bead of sikaflex to seal and secure the mounting.

 

 

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