kaptin kod Posted April 19, 2006 Report Share Posted April 19, 2006 Been reading with intrest the previous post's regarding fitting a keel band to the 165's having chosen not to have one fitted when i purchased, I am now regretting it due to some nasty looking scrapes. I have sourced my S/Steel in 2 sizes 50mm & 20mm, counterinking will not be a problem as I have someone who can sort that out. Has anyone who has fitted one of these DIY bands any usefull tips on the best way to get it done, ie how far apart fixings should be, fixing size and type, sealing fixing holes, sorry to bring this topic back up but not a great deal of experiance with this sort of thing. Thanks for any assistance. Much appreciated KK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam F Posted April 19, 2006 Report Share Posted April 19, 2006 KK, Been discussed in much detail already see here: http://www.pbsbac.co.uk/forums/index.php?s...36&hl=keel+band http://www.pbsbac.co.uk/forums/index.php?s...41&hl=keel+band http://www.pbsbac.co.uk/forums/index.php?s...98&hl=keel+band Hope this helps. Main points are - 165's keel tapers, so make sure you band does too, dont drill in too near the back, or you will puncture the bilge well, use plenty of sikaflex and the right screws - or use nylon and make life easy like I did! Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seamouse Posted April 19, 2006 Report Share Posted April 19, 2006 have sourced my S/Steel in 2 sizes 50mm & 20mm, ...any usefull tips on the best way to get it done, ie how far apart fixings should be, fixing size and type, sealing fixing holes, Hi, I'd offer up the 20 mm strip first and mark where it gets too narrow. Then offer up the 50mm from there downwards and marked where it overlaps the keel. Shape to fit the narrower parts with an angle grinder and a metal cutting disk. Use ear and eye defenders and a filter mask, you do NOT want to inhale stainless steel dust. I used stainless screws in M10, sizes ranged from 1.5" to 2.5" depending on how deep I found anything for the screw to bite on once I'd drilled the hole. Spacing was about every 9". The keelband was drilled on the bench then put back on the keel and I marked up each hole in turn, drilled a pilot hole slightly undersize then drilled slightly oversize through JUST the gel-coat, to avoid the screw causing stress cracks. A screw bunged in a few turns was enough to keep everything true as I worked up the keel, with a couple of jacks and blocks holding every thing in place as I worked. There's a couple of places where the keel rollers get in the way of the keel band or the drill. Leave those holes to last. Easiest thing is to remove the entire roller, then roll the boat back on the trailer. Hitch it up first I put a seperate strip of metal right at the stern as well, rather than trying to bend 3mm steel to fit the sharp step in the profile there. As it lets through into the bilge, you have to bolt through instead of using screws. Use nyloc nuts. Once everything is drilled and shaped, degrease the area with thinners, pump Sikaflex into all the screw holes, smear it over the upper face of the keel band and get the whole shooting match screwed into place asap. No need to overtighten the screws, you'll just strip them or crack the gel coat. Excess Sikaflex can be wiped off with acetone, maybe thinners, but don't go nuts with either. When I was done, I had one or two screw heads just a touch proud of the countersink holes. They chewed hell out of the rollers and offered surprising resistance when winching. A touch with the angle grinder tidied things up. Good luck!! Steve p.s just remembered, to get a better key I lightly sanded the keel and roughened the keel band with an angle grinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaptin kod Posted April 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2006 Thanks Lookfar, thats what I was looking for, read the other posts but nowhere near as much info as you've just given me, will give it a go and see what happens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaptin kod Posted April 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2006 AdamF, I see you had your nylon donated but do you have any idea where I can pick up a supply of this material. KK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazza Posted April 19, 2006 Report Share Posted April 19, 2006 KK, Force 4 chandlers do something like this, i think it is on there web page. I will try to find the link. Gary Can`t do it , but it`s called keelshield and quite expensive. code no.890174 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wedger Posted April 19, 2006 Report Share Posted April 19, 2006 AdamF, I see you had your nylon donated but do you have any idea where I can pick up a supply of this material. KK KK The stuff Adam had was nylon rub strip....... 50mm I tink Any good bearing supplier should have it or get it. Comes in rolls. Be prepared to pay from Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaptin kod Posted April 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2006 Cheers, Wedger managed to find some fom a plastic engineering firm but they STRONGLY advised not to use nylon in that type of enviroment. So I will go back to the S.Steel idea and see what happens. KK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wedger Posted April 20, 2006 Report Share Posted April 20, 2006 KK Interesting remark re nylon for keel band. Praps have a word with Adam to see his new one survives. Afishonardo will also praps share a tad of know how on use of nylon. He knows a lot about nylons T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam F Posted April 20, 2006 Report Share Posted April 20, 2006 Mines been fine so far....???? Why do they recommend not to use it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob F Posted April 20, 2006 Report Share Posted April 20, 2006 Nylon and glass don't mix. They generate a huge static charge. Look at your crews hair the next time you're out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam F Posted April 20, 2006 Report Share Posted April 20, 2006 ??? Confused? The nylon keel band is 1.) Screwed to the gel, no the bare glass, and 2.) Spends all of its oving life under water - therefore wont it earth out? Whats the potential hazard of having a nylon keel band? I know some manufacturers even fit them as Std, so they cant be dangerous? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul D Posted April 20, 2006 Report Share Posted April 20, 2006 Adam, Surely Bob was joking ? ( after all Gordon crews for you a lot and the static charge wouldn't show much on him ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam F Posted April 20, 2006 Report Share Posted April 20, 2006 Maybe it's a new cod attractor - find out tommorow!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob F Posted April 20, 2006 Report Share Posted April 20, 2006 heee, heee, heee, heee... BF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaptin kod Posted April 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2006 It appears that Nylon can absorb water, something like 10% of it's weight, don't know how this would affect performance but only passing on information given in case it is of use to anyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seamouse Posted April 21, 2006 Report Share Posted April 21, 2006 It appears that Nylon can absorb water, something like 10% of it's weight, don't know how this would affect performance but only passing on information given in case it is of use to anyone. That more or less means it will expand and contract by 10% of its volume? In theory that could stress mounting points and even shear off the Sikaflex adhesive bond. Somehow I doubt it though, especially as thermal expansion of stainless steel has to be getting close to that figure as well. Its kinda fun finding SOMETHING for Adam to worry about, though Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Afishionado Posted April 21, 2006 Report Share Posted April 21, 2006 Yep, I reckon not only the worry about tension stress in the s/s screws, pull though in the holes in the nylon, but he shoulda wieghed the nylon dry added 10% for the water + and an addition 'cos it's salt water then added that to the lb per sq inch calculation for the total weight of the boat in relation to the trim tabs actuating pressure. Mad Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newboy Posted April 21, 2006 Report Share Posted April 21, 2006 Now now you guys, let leave the poor lad alone ....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wedger Posted April 21, 2006 Report Share Posted April 21, 2006 Yep, I reckon not only the worry about tension stress in the s/s screws, pull though in the holes in the nylon, but he shoulda wieghed the nylon dry added 10% for the water + and an addition 'cos it's salt water then added that to the lb per sq inch calculation for the total weight of the boat in relation to the trim tabs actuating pressure. Oooooh Mike..... you are a one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J Posted April 22, 2006 Report Share Posted April 22, 2006 Oooooh Mike..... you are a one Yes he is- last seen disguised in this kitchen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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