reg Posted December 7, 2006 Report Share Posted December 7, 2006 Hi Chaps. Having just got hold of a seagull o/b the one with the clutch I think it's a 6hp model. Now do I add lead additive to the mixture or is it happy with unleaded petrol /oilmix I know that the mix is 3/4 of a pint of oil to 1 gallon of petrol. Cheers Reg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnasher Posted December 8, 2006 Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 Unleaded should be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reg Posted December 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 thanks for your reply reg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swainiac Posted December 8, 2006 Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 Hi Reg, hope all is well up there in breezy northumberland! Is that the right mix?? Seems a tad rich. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newboy Posted December 8, 2006 Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 That's 12:1 mix, seem extremely rich. Do a search on either saving old seagull or saving seagull, it is a site dedicated to saving old seagull ob, the chap who runs it knows everything about the brand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Afishionado Posted December 8, 2006 Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 That's 12:1 mix, seem extremely rich. Do a search on either saving old seagull or saving seagull, it is a site dedicated to saving old seagull ob, the chap who runs it knows everything about the brand. The mix ratio is perfectly correct as given by Seagull back in the dark ages. But Kam does have a very good point in as much as the origional ratio was for the use of standard SAE 30 motor oil of the 1950's. These days with far far better specific two stroke oils available, considerably less 'MARINE TWO STROKE' oil would be appropriate. Try http://www.seagullparts.co.uk/ for information Mad Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverick Martin Posted December 8, 2006 Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 Mike I seem to remember seagull being 12:1 as you say but later I think they changed it to 25:1 on later models, not sure when this happened though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CREZZ Posted December 8, 2006 Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 Hello Reg , as Kam says Have a look here . Saving old seagulls , what this bloke don't know a'int worth knowing . Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reg Posted December 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 Thanks to you all for your input just had a quick look on the site you mentioned plenty of information which should keep me occupied for an hour or two. The engine had been standing in a garage for a couple of years. done the usual checks. put it in a barrel fired up second pull. compression seemed a bit weak rings might need changing. But if we get any decent weather will give it a good run out on the tyne which is all it might need Reg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Afishionado Posted December 9, 2006 Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 weak rings might need changing. Seagulls suffer from a unique problem of cylinder glazing. Due to the high oil/petrol usage and in times past the use of ordinary motor oil. The cure is to lift the cylinder head (or complete dis-assembly on the old 102 domed headed ones) and with the piston in it's lowest position giving the exposed cylinder walls a real going over with 'coarse' wet and dry wetted with paraffin untill all the brown glazing has gone. DO NOT DE-COKE the piston top all over leave a band of about 1/4" around the edge. Flush out with paraffin and an air line if pos' and re assemble with a new head gasket. Mad Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coddy Posted December 9, 2006 Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 BE VERY VERY CAREFUL in removing the head bolts. They are normal steel and the threads go straight into the waterways so often rust up and snap! The bolt size is also the old imperial sizes (BSF) so a good set of spanners and sockets are needed. I have been fixing Seagull engines for a number of years and find they are most underated for shear pulling power. Might not get much speed but will cope with most tides. Tip - always keep the fuel tap covered in fuel as the cork stopper dries out and it will leak like mad if allowed to dry out. If you let me know what the serial number of the engine is I should be able to advise you about the engine. Fuel mix should be 10:1 not 12:1 due to the basic design it requires the oil to lubricate everything unless you have fitted a new needle or jet in the carb, Villers needs the needle and Amal carbs use jets. With the conversion the mix is 25:1 This conversion can only be done to post 1967 engines. Unleaded fuel is fine just keep it in an air tight container to stop the fuel going off. Regards Coddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reg Posted December 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 Hi Coddy The model no is WSPCL 962JJ7 it has a amal carb there was also a spare one but don't know if the jets have been changed will read up before dismantling. also it is the clutch model Reg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coddy Posted December 9, 2006 Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 Hi Reg Your motor is a Silver Century Plus with clutch, made Oct 1977 - Standard or Short Shaft WSPC = Silver Century Plus with clutch (if it had an L as well it would mean Longshaft) JJ = October 7 = 1977 Gearbox oil should be EP140 You could have one of two types of carbs both made by Amal If the float chamber is offset it is the common 2 jet version the other has a round float bowl under the carb body, a Amal 416. Both these carbs can have the Power Jet changed so it can run on 25:1 mix. Points should be set at 20 thou or 0.5mm Plugs 35 thou or 0.9mm Use only solid wire plug lead unless contactless points (yours should not have this) Hope the above helps Regards Coddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reg Posted December 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2006 Yes its the carb with two jets so will soak the spare cab in oil and see if i can remove the jets to see if they are the upgraded one's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coddy Posted December 10, 2006 Report Share Posted December 10, 2006 Hi reg The jet to replace is the longer one of the two. Look through the air intake to see both jets. In order to remove the jet you will require a jet removal tool or a pair of long nosed pliers but be carful not to damage the thread on the bottom of the carb body. The Amal Jets are numbered. If it is numbered 45 or 50 it is a 10:1 jet, if it is numbered 40 it is a converted 25:1 jet. I always run the carb dry after a run as it reduces the amount of oily goo left in the carb body if the engine iis not used regularly. Coddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reg Posted December 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2006 Hi Coddy. Thanks for the advice will check jets is the size stamped on the jet?? Reg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reg Posted December 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2006 DOH;; forget the last question as i was trying to do two things at once DOH;;. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coddy Posted December 11, 2006 Report Share Posted December 11, 2006 Hi Reg If you PM me your home address I will post you a Owners spares handbook as long as you don't mind a photocopy version. Coddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.