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Anchor warp help


pegleg
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Hi Guys, sorry to change the subject but i need some advice about my windless,

It appears that i have 25 metres of chain and 10 metres of rope but i have read somewhere that i need to play out between 3-5 times the depth i will be fishing in.

So my question is do i replace what i have or do i buy another anchor with longer rope and stow on board ? Cheers Guys Jas

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Hi Jason,

Do you have any more info about your windlass?

 

Is it manual or electric? Electric ones will take a fair bit of juice out of the battery - and if you have a single battery only that also includes engine starting, it's worth thinking about a twin battery installation, and ensuring that the starter battery isn't flattened by "precision anchoring practice".

 

Does it have a "gypsy" that perfectly manages your chain - or do the links not quite fit properly? You need calibrated chain for most windlasses.

 

Does the windlass handle the rope effectively as well?

 

Chances are, everything is ok, but the combination is a bit short for fishing in anything except shallow water. There is also probably more chain than you need for chafe prevention and ensuring a good horizontal pull.

 

I would suggest a lot of the club members probably have a 10m chain backed up with 100m of rope or so...allowing them to fish in up to 30m or so of water in moderate conditions - but they would probably use the Alderney Ring system rather than a windlass. There's nothing to stop you using both in tandem, and this might enable you to retrieve quickly and safely.

 

A final suggestion seeing as you have acquired it from another - make sure the anchor (hopefully of a sensible design and size!) is tripped properly, and shackled to the chain. The shackle pin should then be seized (monel wire is good) to prevent it vibrating undone.

 

Could I suggest getting a few opinions, and having a chat at the next club meeting regarding how your circumstances can best be suited - or drop me a PM.

 

Mike

 

 

 

 

 

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Jas

 

If you need more anchor warp I've got a 100m of 12mm you can have. It's not the best stuff in the world because it doesn't coil that well, but would be worth trying before you buy any new stuff.

 

Being new to this business you will probably loose your first anchor and warp anyway, so it is probably wise not to spend too much on expensive warp at this stage.

 

10m is certainly not enough for the areas you will be fishing. As Mike says, 100m is the norm for us.

 

cheers

 

BF

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always a great question!

 

Electric ones will take a fair bit of juice out of the battery - and if you have a single battery only that also includes engine starting, it's worth thinking about a twin battery installation, and ensuring that the starter battery isn't flattened by "precision anchoring practice".

you should not use the windlass without the engine running - and when it is you maintain current fine.

 

I am guessing you have 25m of 6mm chain - if so just remove the 10m of rope (use it for a mooring line or what ever) and splice in 100m of 12mm nylon or polyester - job done.

Edited by duncan
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Jas,

 

Duncan is right and once you've done your first splice you'll be hooked -you'll start looking for things to splice just for the hell of it.

 

The above only applies if your working with something nice and supple and soft etc. Oh my mind's started to wander rolleyes.gif

 

Suggest you go for 14mm anchor plait

 

Got a good deal from here http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Boatropes

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Quote...Suggest you go for 14mm anchor plait

 

This is sort of the Rolls Royce end of anchor warp. There are much less costlier options available. Probably the best budget anchor warp is 12mm Nylon Twist. Easy to splice and pretty durable. It has a fair bit of stretch which is desireable on an anchor line. Currently I can buy 220M for

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Mike,

 

Make sure you get a sample of the 12mm stuff first and even then check that the rope you will be getting is the same as the sample.

 

I bought some superb 10mm nylon rope off an e-bay vendor and then got some 12mm stuff and it is not in the same class ( I suspect this is the same 12mm stuff that Bob is mentioning ).

 

 

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Mike,

 

Make sure you get a sample of the 12mm stuff first and even then check that the rope you will be getting is the same as the sample.

 

I bought some superb 10mm nylon rope off an e-bay vendor and then got some 12mm stuff and it is not in the same class ( I suspect this is the same 12mm stuff that Bob is mentioning ).

Thanks for the advice Paul. I have already recieved samples. No it is not the guy Bob is talking about (who has a bit of a reputation), it is a company supplying only to the trade hence the smallest bales being 220m.

 

Timko Limited UK Rope, String, Twines, Baler Twines, Polypropylene Ropes, Nylon Ropes, Sisal Ropes, Manila Ropes, Tug of War Ropes, Boundary Ropes. Suppliers of:

 

Poly String

Sisal String

Poly Garden Twine

Builders & Garden line

Polyrope - various colours

Polypropylene Ropes

Nylon Ropes

Manila Ropes

Polypropylene Yarn Construction Ropes

Tug of War Ropes

Boundary Ropes

Minicoils

Lorry Rope

Polypropylene rope on drum

Garden Twine Polypropylene

Sisal Twine

Fine Polypropylene Twine

Medium Polypropylene Twine

Thick Polypropylene Twine

Polypropylene Packaging Twine

Sisal Ropes

Garden Rope

Natural Fibre Rope

Polypropylene Baling Twine

Baler Twine

Netwrap

 

So I don't think they would string me along biggrin.gif

 

Mad Mike

 

DO NOT anyone go down the GIVE HIM ENOUGH ROPE ETC as I have allready thought of it. tongue.gif

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Mad Mike

 

DO NOT anyone go down the GIVE HIM ENOUGH ROPE ETC as I have allready thought of it. tongue.gif

You must of bought the wrong rope then Mike tongue.gif ........ cause it didn't work laugh.giflaugh.gif

 

Sorry I know you told us not to and I couldn't resist

 

Martin

That's your warped sense of humour ohmy.gif

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Hi Jason

 

That's a lot of chan and not much warp.

 

Cut off the 10m of warp that is there and use it as spare mooring lines.

Get yourself a 110m drum of 12mm or 14mm (check the existing ropes diameter) "Multiplait" rope and have someone splice it onto your chain.

 

Job done.

 

The multiplait is soft and supple and therefore stows nicely in the rope locker. Normal three strand is to springy and you simply can't keep enough in the locker for teh windlass to work effectively.

Even with multiplait you may need an anchor monkey to sometimes help spread the rope in the locker or ease it through the windlass gently (it sometimes gets picked apart a little by the teeth of the windlass).

 

Tom

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Hi Jason

 

That's a lot of chan and not much warp.

 

Cut off the 10m of warp that is there and use it as spare mooring lines.

Get yourself a 110m drum of 12mm or 14mm (check the existing ropes diameter) "Multiplait" rope and have someone splice it onto your chain.

 

Job done.

 

The multiplait is soft and supple and therefore stows nicely in the rope locker. Normal three strand is to springy and you simply can't keep enough in the locker for teh windlass to work effectively.

Even with multiplait you may need an anchor monkey to sometimes help spread the rope in the locker or ease it through the windlass gently (it sometimes gets picked apart a little by the teeth of the windlass).

 

Tom

I am guessing you have 25m of 6mm chain - if so just remove the 10m of rope (use it for a mooring line or what ever) and splice in 100m of 12mm nylon or polyester - job done

 

 

far too similar - for you and me Tom! unsure.gif

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Hi Jason

 

That's a lot of chan and not much warp.

 

Cut off the 10m of warp that is there and use it as spare mooring lines.

Get yourself a 110m drum of 12mm or 14mm (check the existing ropes diameter) "Multiplait" rope and have someone splice it onto your chain.

 

Job done.

 

The multiplait is soft and supple and therefore stows nicely in the rope locker.  Normal three strand is to springy and you simply can't keep enough in the locker for teh windlass to work effectively.

Even with multiplait you may need an anchor monkey to sometimes help spread the rope in the locker  or ease it through the windlass gently (it sometimes gets picked apart a little by the teeth of the windlass).

 

Tom

I am guessing you have 25m of 6mm chain - if so just remove the 10m of rope (use it for a mooring line or what ever) and splice in 100m of 12mm nylon or polyester - job done

 

 

far too similar - for you and me Tom! unsure.gif

Ooops.

 

Should have read the replies already given.

 

The only difference is the windlass on Jason's boat should be a Lewmar and the particular modle requires 8mm calibrated chain.

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The only difference is the windlass on Jason's boat should be a Lewmar and the particular modle requires 8mm calibrated chain

 

ah well if it's a combined chain / rope gypsy handling 8mm chain I wouldn't have thought 12mm rope would be optimum at all..............going from mine which is an 8mm chain one I have 14mm anchorplait which is fine when there's just a little tension in play when recovering. I do have to take a little care from time to time hence you will normally see me recovering from the bow and letting go from the wheelhouse!

 

personally whilst relatively expensive I see it as an investment - but then again I often sleep on the hook (when Dave allows.........) in some funny places; this was the Saturday night of the 48hr last year for instance

 

user posted image

 

oh for the weather again this year! rolleyes.gif

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As someone says the chain has to be calibrated to the winch and that also dictates the dia of the warp

 

You need to check the spec of the model fitted and use the correct rope

 

I am presuming that the size as fitted is correct, so just get a longer length of the same.

 

Charlie

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