Jump to content

Wiring


spNOam
 Share

Recommended Posts

It's oxidation of the copper strands in the cable.

 

You will need to replace it soon.

 

Pay a little more and buy a good marine grade cable and it will help prevent the oxidation.

 

Once the copper strands go black it is impossible to solder the wire or make a good low resistance electrical crimp.

 

BF

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When my baitwell pump died this oxidation was the cause - it had run at least 2 feet up the cable, and it was in the engine box so never got wet apart from maybe condensation. Apparently proper marine cable is more resistant to it. I also think it would be best to 'tin' the end so all the strands are soldered together before terminating it, otherwise once oxidation sets in the only contact will be on the outer strands.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The best cable for marine use, not the automotive kind, is tinned right the way through, and is still flexible. Oh and by the way, submersible in salt water indefinately. Thats what is running in my bilges, although not submersed I hope blink.gif

 

Its not cheap though, but saves having to replace it every 5 years or so.

 

Take a look at http://www.Merlinequipment.com - they are in Poole cabot lane.

 

Regards

 

Paul

 

 

 

 

 

Link made live

Edited by Maverick
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've heard many people refer to Marine grade cable, sorry guys, no such thing, if your being sold Marine cable at a premium, then your being robbed, I sell cable to the Naval shipyards around the world for Frigates submarines and A/C, as well as large commercial ships like super yachts, cruise liners, commercial yards use the cheapest shit that carries a DNV approval, Basically bare cat 2 copper, with a thick insulation on to keep the oil etc out. I am selling Tinned copper into Military ships, and for a while into commercial ships, but we are taking cost out by not tinning, no one else does. The trick to keeping your cables clean and healthy is sealing the joints, heat shrink, shrink boots, gels etc. The prime requirement for marine cable is Halogen free and self extinguishing, we sell cross linked cable, so that if it does overheat the insulation does not drip off the conductor.

If you saw the cruise liner in Souhthampton the other week, big Bxxxer, Built in Finland, we supplied the cable for the bridge, 20 km of the stuff. another nurdy bit of data, she has over 1 million metres of signal cables on board ( thats below 4smm copper section ) cost $1 billion to build, and is already outclassed, two more in production are 5 & 10% bigger.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

....... I sell cable to the Naval shipyards around the world for Frigates submarines ..............

 

When I was on board British SSN's we used tinned copper with low toxicity insulation.

Edited by Brian
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I suppose you have choices in all of this. most of the cable in my boat is multistrand automotive, with crimped on end terminals -fit for purpose - but then these are in a nominally dry environment inside the cabin, and the DIYer has been busy with all sorts of mods since the boat left the factory.

 

You are right about using the heat shrink glue filled connectors, and these are what are fitted on my battery - theres no risk of the salt penetrating under the insulation here - unless with usage - this impermeable seal breaks down.

 

The wires I'm running will not be out of the moisture, but lie in the bilges - so I want to fit and forget, hence the main reason for using tinned cable. An electrician friend offerred to heat shrink the end terminals onto the cable for me.

 

I dont believe I'm being ripped off, for only a few metres, the cost is negligible compared to the other components, but in your case with a whole lot more km to run, I dare say commerical pressures and life cycle costings are more important.

 

BTW - having looked through Merlinequipment.com for their online ordering page - gave up (am I missing something like the link?) and ordered from Seascrew and www.marineelectrics.co.uk instead - cant fault the quality and rapid delivery this time.

 

Regards

 

Paul

Edited by Sinbad
Link to comment
Share on other sites

....... I sell cable to the Naval shipyards around the world for Frigates submarines ..............

 

When I was on board British SSN's we used tinned copper with low toxicity insulation.

Chances are it was our cable, Qualified to either Mil stand or Def standards, as a result of the Faulklands war all our ships were refitted with Zero Halogen, Low smoke, Thin wall self extinguishing cable, the rest of europe still uses commercial bare copper, but zero halogen, for those not aware, we lost more service men due to poisens and smoke from burning cable on board ships than any other method. Never again.

If there is quatermaster or similar in the club I will order samples of heat shrink, crimps and what ever else I can ( got to be some perks ). Please send PM or e-mail details and I will see what I can do, can't promise much on the cable as we only make to order and there are so many variations.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

welll a wiring rationalisation is certainly on the list for Phaeton - I have made piecemeal replacements over the last 6 years but ought to do the whole lot now the rest of the OS bits are pretty much done.

 

certainly interested in connectors / sealed spades etc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 

I used to be into model gliders and we used Ni cads for all our battery needs and one thing we all dreaded was known as "the black death" this was the wiring from the battery going black and often caused failures and resulted in smashed models. The only solution was to ensure that you always disconect the battery completely after use. I certainly don't confess to be an expert on electrics but had heard that leaving the battery connected albeit switched off caused this issue. Does anyone have the electrical know how to explain?

 

Gordon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used to be into model gliders and we used Ni cads for all our battery needs and one thing we all dreaded was known as "the black death" this was the wiring from the battery going black and often caused failures and resulted in smashed models. The only solution was to ensure that you always disconect the battery completely after use. I certainly don't confess to be an expert on electrics but had heard that leaving the battery connected albeit switched off caused this issue. Does anyone have the electrical know how to explain?

 

Gordon

This would certainly support my initial question, the +ive connection is switched.I wonder if It would make any difference if I switched the -ive or even connected this to an anode?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...