Sinbad Posted June 4, 2007 Report Share Posted June 4, 2007 Having fitted my second deckwash pump in as many months - after the first one failed for no reason... I relocated it and been less than impressed with the plumbing I used. Not having a dry space near the stern, the pump is fitted in the floor locker, and I've plumbed in the suction pipe under the floor as a first fix, using JG speedfit push fit fittings. Only trouble is there are a fair number of joints (not in the bilge I hasten to add!) The piping isnt leaking outward - but under the suction of the diaphragm pump air is getting in through the joints big time - so much so that the discharge is permanently 'foamy' and aerated - plus I get fairly poor flow. In the end I replaced with a simple 1/2" hose direct onto the strainer and it works fine. Would anyone in the know or in the 'trade' know how to get these fittings air tight, or am I wasting my time. I could glue them but it defeats the object of having a system I can dismantle if needed to clean - plus they arent cheap. so, any advice welcome.... inless I've answered my own question with the bit of free hose I cut off the garden reel at the weekend Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverick Martin Posted June 4, 2007 Report Share Posted June 4, 2007 Having fitted my second deckwash pump in as many months - after the first one failed for no reason... I relocated it and been less than impressed with the plumbing I used. Not having a dry space near the stern, the pump is fitted in the floor locker, and I've plumbed in the suction pipe under the floor as a first fix, using JG speedfit push fit fittings. Only trouble is there are a fair number of joints (not in the bilge I hasten to add!) The piping isnt leaking outward - but under the suction of the diaphragm pump air is getting in through the joints big time - so much so that the discharge is permanently 'foamy' and aerated - plus I get fairly poor flow. In the end I replaced with a simple 1/2" hose direct onto the strainer and it works fine. Would anyone in the know or in the 'trade' know how to get these fittings air tight, or am I wasting my time. I could glue them but it defeats the object of having a system I can dismantle if needed to clean - plus they arent cheap. so, any advice welcome.... inless I've answered my own question with the bit of free hose I cut off the garden reel at the weekend Paul Paul Did you use the inserts, all push fit plumbing is us without the correct inserts Martin BTW on my set up all we used was hose and jubillee clips with no problems, keep your strainer as close to the inlet as poss and you should never have to dismantle to clean pipes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coddy Posted June 4, 2007 Report Share Posted June 4, 2007 If you use clear pipes you will see any obstruction. Just a thought Coddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinbad Posted June 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2007 Martin Yep - I used the inserts to avoid crushing the pipe and the correct cutters - I noticed some joints had sealed better than others so maybe I need to try again - I think these fittings aren't expected to be under vacuum - best that has been suggested so far is a self annealing tape bandage arround the lot - which will look a tad heath robinson. Thanks Coddy - I've actually used the clear re-inforced hose stuff - for my temporary fix - but might now leave this permanently as it seems quite robust - and as you say you can easily see when it needs replacing. Thanks for your remarks.... should have rigged up the jubilee clip and hose from the off to test it out - then might have saved myself alot of money and bother.. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mw Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 paul It sounds like the joints are not pushed home completly you can get rings that push inthe end of the fitting to stop them moving Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomBettle Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 (edited) Hi Paul Sorry, just spotted this. Not sure what pump you have and what "pick up" you have for the water (Sea Cock?), but this is how we would typically install a deck wash: 1) 1/2" to 1" Sea Cock fitted securely in to the hull (size dependent on final pump etc.... and also 'cos I can't actually remember) 2) Double hose clip, marine grade, reinforced hose (the clear stuff with criss crosses in it) on to the skin fitting. Never use garden hose as it degrades, which can be quite embarrassing if you have a boat on a mooring and have left the sea cock open when the hose finally gives up the ghost. 3) For the paranoid (me) a small inline strainer is fitted before attaching to the pump which is securely bolted to a bulkhead. My preferred pump is the Jabsco Water Puppy. Again, all hose connections are double clipped. 4) More marine grade hose loosely in the bilge (no kinks) to a convenient location for an outlet. On our boats we use the double skin on the transom to hide the hose inside. 5) Use a brass or heavy plastic hose connection to come through the fibreglass making sure the hose from the pump is double clipped on the inside. 6) To neaten and finish the visible bit coming through from where you have pocked it, use a hozelock connection or a more expensive brass hozelock style fitting. 7) Normal reinforced garden hose is then fine for the actual deckwash, deckside, hose. Attach a spray nozzle and you have a great deckwash that will also be very adequate for your livebait tank with a few more hozelock fittings and some very simple fitting. Hope that is of some help, if not to you, to anyone else that may be looking to fit a deckwash. Tom PS: If you are frightened to put a through hull sea cock in your boat, pay someone to do that bit and then do the rest your self. Also, marine grade hose can be very tough to slide over the hose fittings on the pump and skin fitting etc. To help you, warm them up with a hot air gun or hair dryer (or put the end in boiling water for a moment). This makes them supple enough to force over the ends ad helps stop blisters on your hands! Always double hose clip the connections with good quality hose clips. Edited June 7, 2007 by TomBettle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toerag Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 Tom's plan sounds good although the water puppy is fairly power hungry, up to 8amps for the 12V version. This can easily flatten a battery enough to prevent it from starting a diesel engine if you have the pump running for ages without running the engine, eg. long slow drifts on the schole bank interspersed with quick runs back uptide. Believe me, I know!!! Having said that, the waterpuppy provides good flow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomBettle Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 I agree with Toerag, hence you either run the pup for regular but brief bursts to freshen up the water and get some circulation or simply have a second battery for "domestics" and not have to worry about the engine battery at all. The water puppy is hugely more powerful than any of the bilge pump style deckwashes that some people try and use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddriff Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 Hi Paul Just noticed your thread. With Speed fitting, there are two types of inserts, the original ones are just plain and should be thrown away. The other type has 2 Black O rings around the insert to provide a negative pressure seal in the fitting. I use speedfit pipe and fitting all for most of my plumbing and heating installations. Great care must be taken when pushing the fittings together and tighten the outer ring when you are happy that you have a good joint. You will have a positive and negative pressure on any type of pump that is why some radiators in the home will need bleeding from time to time. Hope this helps Keith Meredith PLUMBING SOLUTIONS UK Ltd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinbad Posted June 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 Keith Many Thanks sounds like it'll work - I used the plain inserts - but did see these also and wondered about these... now I know - might try again. Tom Also Thanks for your advice plus the chat at the meeting - at the moment the sea pipe just pokes through the scupper when I need some washdown - and then to flush the engine the pipe goes into a big tub of fresh water. BTW - do you have these double clip joints inside the bilge - is there much risk of the hose coming off the pump and filling the bilge up? part of the reason I was keen to try an installation without fitting a seacock. When I get it finally sorted, I'll post a few pics no doubt. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomBettle Posted June 11, 2007 Report Share Posted June 11, 2007 BTW - do you have these double clip joints inside the bilge - is there much risk of the hose coming off the pump and filling the bilge up? part of the reason I was keen to try an installation without fitting a seacock. Paul Paul The double clips simply add security over a single clip. It is incredibly unlikely (I suppose it is possible) that both hose clips will come undone on a joint. If it were to happen whilst the pump was in use then you would notice the sudden loss of pressure and realise somethig was up before a serious incident was to take place. In addition, it is always considered good advice to get in the habit of closing a sea cock when not in use. The flip side is you must remember to open a sea cock when you need to use it. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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