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All I need!!


Adam F
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Having not been out on JV for 3 months due to the new family, I popped down today to fuel her up for the Open tomorrow.

 

Fueled and ready I took her up the harbour to check all OK - except not sad.gif

 

At 3000rpm which usually gives about 25 knots I managed just 10 knots. Flat our gave me 14!! ohmy.gif It sounded aweful, and was vibrating like made.....

 

Back at the marina I raised the leg for a look - ah...... half of Poole Harbour now seems to be growing on the leg - the shitty spray on Trilux clearly not working.

 

Anyway - I couldnt clean it with a brush and sponge, so it needs to come out for a good scrub and re-antifoul.

 

Problem is cant really justify

Edited by Adam F
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yep - the shallow warm water is a nightmare for this.

 

Having scrubbed and tugged the foot long stuff from Phaeton's drive using the tender on the mooring I anchored up in shallow (clear) water off Swanage and did the rest from the water - I find a peice of bamboo cane the best thing to remove barnacles but not the paint!

 

Pulled her out again a couple of weeks ago to change the anodes and give it a blast - hull was great but the leg....

 

Problem is that there is no effective biocide in the trilux, it's purely there as a scrubable (which is pretty useless on the drive). Once upon a time I used to add SBK brushwood killer to the trilux and it worked rather well....

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Problem is that there is no effective biocide in the trilux

 

Really? So what are the other options?

 

Did Charlie use normal antifoul, by protecting the leg from reaction in the antifoul using a primer??

 

Boat coming out in a week so I need to know what to apply?

 

Went down today and barnacles are EVERYWHERE!!! inside the leg, in the water pick ups.... dont think a jet wash will take them off!!

 

On the upside the hull antifoul is working great - just a slime on the hull.

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I'm going back to my chemistry set........... blink.gif

 

Adam,

 

Save yourself a small fortune!!!

 

Get used to using the tides (and your drive trim) and come on down to Xchurch - much more fun anyway....

 

You can go surfing over the bar - and rock dodging - and stuff sick.gif -

 

but you'll not get barnacles on yer bottom or a drive that looks like the Medusa

Edited by Wedger
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Problem is that there is no effective biocide in the trilux

 

Really? So what are the other options?

 

Did Charlie use normal antifoul, by protecting the leg from reaction in the antifoul using a primer??

 

Boat coming out in a week so I need to know what to apply?

 

Went down today and barnacles are EVERYWHERE!!! inside the leg, in the water pick ups.... dont think a jet wash will take them off!!

 

On the upside the hull antifoul is working great - just a slime on the hull.

exactly the same with Phaeton

 

basically as non commercial vessels we are somewhat limited - biocides are out and copper doesn't mix with aluminum.

 

if Charlie has managed to isolate the copper risk then his drive should look like our hulls - I wish mine did!

 

it doesn't take much biocide to dramatically reduce the growth, but if everyone did it then the cockles, clams and oysters in the harbour would suffer, along with the balance of the food chain. my earlier experiments were in the Medway where the heavy metals and paper puld by products dwarfed my trial impact (and most people were still using up left over commercial antifouling!).

 

overall I smoother mine in trilux (or Blake's equivilent currently) and blast it off from time to time.

 

re blistering - this is normally a product of overcoating at the wrong time. there is a small early window for an overcoat but if you miss it you need 48 hours or you get blistering. might not have been the issue but it's what happens.

Edited by duncan
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My leg suffers just as much as the rest I am afraid

 

I started off with trilux but was less than impressed, and because the leg had been well primed with several coats of primacon prior to fitting I have used the same coating as the boat did last year. [interspeed extra]

I use an additional anode in the water next to the leg to increase the protection when in any marina, this is connected by wires to the leg inside the boat.

 

This year the fouling has been bad, I had it dived on prior to going on holiday in August. He reported there were even some patches of barnicles on the hull.

 

We used the boat a lot during the following seven days, motering on 5 out of 7 days and as far as Guernsey but the leg was already fouling up after a week.

 

Last week I cleaned it again by hand prior to a trip to Southampton, she has been in the marina for only 5 days since we got back and its getting bad again.

 

The antifouling is working though, as areas without [anodes and rubbers] are growing weed as an alarming rate.

 

Keeping legs clean seems to be a full time task, but as Adam says a slimy hull and dirty leg realls slows the boat and puts the fuel consumption up.

 

Adam when you get her out take the covers off the leg, we had growth inside our the first year, it has since been antifouled on the inside of these.

 

Charlie

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Thanks Craig.

 

We will need a lift later in the year for a full service, so will probably use Alun's offer for that and still take you up on your offer.

 

I'll be in touch next few days.

 

Charlie - thanks for the advice. I presume you mean the plastic leg covers?

 

Will aim to get the boat out in the next few weeks for 24 hours and jetwash her off and re-a/f the leg.

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Adam

 

From back of the tin of Primocon.....

Preparation:

 

"Aluminium: Mechanically abrade with aluminium compatible paper or low pressure grit blast using aluminium oxide. Pre-Prime with etch primer.

 

Application:

 

Apply the folowing number of coats Steel/ Alluminium/Alloy/Lead - 5 coats

 

Overcoating time (self) 15 degC Min 3hours - Overcoating time optimal 15degC 16hours. 24 hours for 5 degC

 

This one has always had me baffled - whether to wait the 16 hours. I dont know under what conditions you could overpaint in 3 hours flat. (saudi arabia perhaps)

 

All I can say is that this stuff is fairly gloopy unless you keep it mobile with a little No3 thinners, and I always ended up leaving overnight to harden enough to get near it.

 

Perhaps you should seek advice here or phone their help line :023 8021 3146.

 

Otherwise you could be out for a longer time.

 

Last year I abraded my trim tabs until they looked pretty horrible - whatever SA2 1/2 is supposed to be, then 5 coats plus 2 of antifoul, and they are still good, but your etch primer adds another coat.

 

Hope this helps

 

Best of Luck!!!

 

Paul

 

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