Portable Live-well

[Adam F]

At the boat jumble I picked up the kit to fit me out with a live-bait well.

 

My problem was thus (and im sure many of the smaller boats may agree?)

 

I fish live bait once in a blue moon, probably about 5/6 times a year.

But when I do fish with it, it dies, hence the need for a live well.

The live wells on the 165, are too small.

I need it cheap and portable.

 

I bought at the jumble: 1x small bilge pump, 2 x skin fittings, 2m flexi hose. Then off to B&Q

[Swainiac]

Adam, those placky box's become very brittle, your best bet, (found by trial and error with my livewell construction) is one of those blue mini barrels, with all the same stuff that you have whacked on it.

 

Rich

[Adam F]

Yep...know what you mean. This one is made from slightly more pliable plastic, so shouldnt be a problem.

 

The main issue for me is that I need to use gravity to drain the outlet, so this needs to be higher. The plastic box isnt tall enough, so I either have to drill the hull to make a lower outlet - or get a bigger box!...Id prefer the 2nd option!

 

Where can I get a plastic drum?

[domino]

Yep...know what you mean. This one is made from slightly more pliable plastic, so shouldnt be a problem.

 

The main issue for me is that I need to use gravity to drain the outlet, so this needs to be higher. The plastic box isnt tall enough, so I either have to drill the hull to make a lower outlet - or get a bigger box!...Id prefer the 2nd option!

 

Where can I get a plastic drum?

I saw some suitable containers on the back of truck collecting waste veg oil from a chip shop.

 

Unfortunately I didn't have time to stop and try to relieve him of one!!

 

If anyone knows where they come from, I am after one as well.

[Adam F]

http://www.boatsandoutboards.co.uk/view/F31379/

 

Let me know if youre going to cumbria!!!

[Newboy]

Yep...know what you mean. This one is made from slightly more pliable plastic, so shouldnt be a problem.

 

The main issue for me is that I need to use gravity to drain the outlet, so this needs to be higher. The plastic box isnt tall enough, so I either have to drill the hull to make a lower outlet - or get a bigger box!...Id prefer the 2nd option!

 

Where can I get a plastic drum?

I saw some suitable containers on the back of truck collecting waste veg oil from a chip shop.

 

Unfortunately I didn't have time to stop and try to relieve him of one!!

 

If anyone knows where they come from, I am after one as well.

We used to use oil from A&B (I think it's the one you saw). The oil come in 20 litre plastic drums. They are fine if the lid is shut, but once it's left open, the drum doesn't retain its shape very well.

 

I also have 20 litre metal drum, however, you'll have to roll the edge down with pliers/hammer as it's very sharp. They are rigid enough tho.

[Newboy]

http://www.boatsandoutboards.co.uk/view/F31379/

 

Let me know if youre going to cumbria!!!

Adam, have you thought about those drums for collecting rainwater in garden? They are rigid enOugh and comes already with a tap at the bottom to let the water out.

[domino]

Adam,

 

See my post in the Who's got a big butt then? thread.

 

Cheers,

Alan

[Sinbad]

Adam

Have you looked at these airstone type aerators sold in the tackle shops ?

I realise you've gone for the water in / water out type... but was wondering how these other type work. Personally, I dont fancy any more weight at the back of my boat - 20 litres is about the max.

 

Regards

Sinbad

[Adam F]

Yep - have looked at the airstone method - works well, mainly by airating the water, and thus keeping the temp down, which is the main consideration in keeping the eels alive.

 

A bucket with a battery run airpump will do a good job also, cheap and doesnt take any more space.

[great white]

Adam the smaller blue plastic drums are used to transport chain

 

Check your contacts through work for chain suppliers and you should be able to find them they must be about 30ltrs and have a plastic lid so make a self contained storage unit for all the bits when not in use.

 

as for the overflow, use a bigger bore skin fitting than the inlet and about 3/4 up the tank and you should not get a problem.

You may also be able to make it so that this drains into your outboard well or overboard if the warriors freeboard is low enough.

 

As you can see I am now back from France so if you want to check the tank on GW give me a call.

 

Charlie

[Adam F]

Cheers Charlie!

 

I have altered the mk1 design. I had originally used a 20l clear container from B&Q, but it wasnt high enough to allow gravity to self drain it.

 

Whippet has now very kindly got me a 60l blue bin. I will fix both the inlet and outlet ports 3/4 the wya up the bin. The inlet comes in through a rubber collor in the splash well and the outlet will be via a skin fitting on the well also.

 

I have mounted the bilge pump on a removable bracket so it can be cliped to the transom .

[Adam F]

Whippet very kindly picked me up a 60l blue bin last week..I collected it this morning.

 

It is ideal, and much better than the B&Q box I bought.

 

1 question though. Do I put the inlet and outlet hoses at the same level? If I do this wont the 'new'water just overflow, and the water at the bottom of the tank just stay stagnent? If I put the inlet deeper down, 1.) I wont get bubbles and air from the inlet, and 2.) will the blige struggle to push against the water pressure.

 

How are yours done?

[Bob F]

Have haven't built one of these, but my take on this is:

 

1) Why do you want bubbles and air (like a venturi)? You will be pumping in fresh sea water which is already fully oxygenated????

 

2) The bilge pumps are pretty powerful and so I don't think they will struggle to "push" the head of water you are talking about.

 

One problem you might have is that the water will back flow through the bottom entry when the pump is turned off. A cheap or home made one-way valve would cure this.

 

Bob F.

[Newboy]

Bob's right, the water will circulate by itself plus the fish's swimming action help to move the water.

 

I would put the inlet higher than the outlet, first it won't have the back plow problem and it will put more oxygen into the water, i.e., you won't have to have the bilge pump working as often.

[domino]

Bob's right, the water will circulate by itself plus the fish's swimming action help to move the water.

 

I would put the inlet higher than the outlet, first it won't have the back plow problem and it will put more oxygen into the water, i.e., you won't have to have the bilge pump working as often.

.... and you won't need a strainer on the inlet, to stop the little buggers disappearing down there when the pump is off!!

 

Have you got, or decided what you are going to use as a strainer on the overflow?

[Paul D]

or how about having the inlet above the water level and running a pipe to the bottom of the tank ? ( I guess you could still end up draining the water out due to siphoning when the pump is off - but less likely ).

 

WHat size drum did you use in the end Adam ? - I got a quote for a 30 litre drum and the height of it is just right ( if lifted up a couple of inches ) for the Orkney.

[Newboy]

 

Have you got, or decided what you are going to use as a strainer on the overflow?

Depending what live bait he Adam wants to keep in the tank, here are some suggestions:

1) missus' stocking problem is that it will get clod up quickly due to mesh being too fine

2) a piece of wire bend into a ball sharp, cheap and won't get clod up.

3) kettle de-scaler, a small wire mesh thing about 2cm d by 3cm long, use in kettle to keep scale down. Cost about

[Adam F]

Its almost there guys.

 

Paul - I got a 60l blue bin brand new (kindly collected by Whippet)

 

I have fitted the intake and outlets 3/4 the way up, to allow for sloping, and both at the same level.

 

The intake comes from a pipe routed through a spare 'witches' hat and the outlet is plumbed into a new skin fitting on the transom.

 

I have run a new wire from the switchboard, but have teminated it in waterproof plugs, so I can easily disconnect and remove the kit.

 

The only snag now is how to mount the bilge pump on the transom, so I can take it on and off.

 

When finished I'll do a short article on how I made it. Then Im off out next weekend to try it out!

[great white]

Adam

for info,

my pump is attached by a jubilee clip to a reinforced pipe about 3 mtrs long that is then fixed around the inside of the tanks top.

The end of the hose is bunged up and 6mm holes are drilled into it facing down into the tank.

a discharge overboard is fitted like yours 3/4 way up the tank, with a strainer

 

To use tha tank at rest the pump is simply put overboard and fresh sea water is pumped through the tank.

when underway the pump is lifted back onboard and put into the tank to recycle and re-oxigenate the water in the tank while the boat is underway.

 

The system works well enough to keep about a dozen mackeral or 100 eels alive all day without any problem.

To be honest if I have less bait or am on a short trip I do not bother with the pump I simply top the tank up by buckets occasionally to refresh the water and keep it cool.

 

You must however

try not to get any blood in the tank [from bleeding fish after unhooking]

remove all dead fish asap

do not leave obstructions like the net in the tank when in use.

 

I am sure your design will prove worth the effort, I just wish I had a better source of live eels.

 

Charlie

[domino]

Its almost there guys.

 

Paul - I got a 60l blue bin brand new (kindly collected by Whippet)

 

I have fitted the intake and outlets 3/4 the way up, to allow for sloping, and both at the same level.

 

The intake comes from a pipe routed through a spare 'witches' hat and the outlet is plumbed into a new skin fitting on the transom.

 

I have run a new wire from the switchboard, but have teminated it in waterproof plugs, so I can easily disconnect and remove the kit.

 

The only snag now is how to mount the bilge pump on the transom, so I can take it on and off.

 

When finished I'll do a short article on how I made it. Then Im off out next weekend to try it out!

Adam,

 

Did you use a larger fitting and pipe for the overflow?

 

I bought the bits for mine yesterday and have fitted them to the tank for a test run.

 

The 'in' from the pump is 19mm (3/4" ish) obviously governed by the size of the port on the pump.

 

The 'out' is about 35mm (1 1/4" ish), the biggest skin fitting in my local chandler, this only just allows the water out at the same rate as the pump (Rule 360 gph) puts it in.

 

Also I think it will be a good idea to fit another outlet, with a tap of some kind, at the bottom of the tank to allow it to be emptied at the end of the trip.

 

Cheers,

Alan

[Adam F]

Just finished my livebait tank also....this is now about the MK4 design!!

 

As you did, I had to change the 3/4" outlet to a larger 1" outlet, to keep up with the inlet - even now it does only just.

 

I fitted another skin fitting to the transom of the boat for an outlet, and the inlet comes in via a witches hat. I have fitted a cable with ciggie outlet to power the unit, but may wire it perminent in the future.

 

Took it out for trials last night. Performs very well. I have a strap to hold it to the trasom and stop it falling over, and even the rocking and rolling of the boat in a F5 swell didnt spill any water.

 

As the acid test, it kept a bass and a sole alive all night!

 

But like you, the last thing I need it a tap in the bottom - 60l of water is bloody heavy to tip out! Bob F suggested the taps that home brewers use?...

[Newboy]

Go down to the garden centre and see if they sell the tap for water butt seperately, or down to a plumbing centre abd see what they have.

 

If you don't fancy that, you can use the bilge pump to empty the drum.

[Paul D]

Adam.

 

60 litres of water is the same weight as my engine ( 60 KG ). That's why I thought I would go for a smaller barrel ( 30 litres ). Just need to order one now ( They quote around

[duncan]

mine's running well but the need for a mesh over the inlet (as indicated above) became very clear as the buggers jammed up the inlet pipe very quickly once the pump was switched off!.

I have the well outside the boat on the bathing platform so I elected to connect the inlet to the bottom - on a length of pipe as Charlie has - but have drilled holes around the circumference of the tank about 6 inches from the top - thus the colder water comes in at the bottom and the warmest surface water gets drawn off; well that's the theory!

Other options I found with the length of pipe were - 1, Letting it all out got the pump a metre down into 'better' water and 2. holding the pump up next to the side of the boat on the surface provided a great mixture of water/air bubbling up through the tank and I believe got more oxygen into the water in the tank than would otherwise have been the case.

Now where the hell are the joey mackerel though?