Wedger Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 (edited) Well time to start planning winter maintenance and this year I'm going for the big clean up. Otter will be wet blasted to remove all the old anti-foul back to the gel and then recoated - but with which system I would like to think I can find a very slick (fast - low friction) yet low maintenance anti-foul. Any suggestions out there please? Wedge Edited January 11, 2010 by Wedger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Trev - what you are looking for is a trailer or dry stack!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
great white Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Hi Trev The only wet blaster I would recomend [we have used a few] is LLoyd Cordell of uniprep Not cheap but is good [Ask Mike F he used him] if you want his No let me know I will get it at work in teh morning. I would then finish with a fine grit, prime with Primacon and then antifoul I have used International interspeed which was good but if used in Christchurch there are others that work better in brackish water. Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaffa Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Trev - what you are looking for is a trailer or dry stack!!! Trev, I think Robs hit the nail on the head...or sailors a**ehole on the bottom... I get the impression that the only Long Term antifoul is Copper Coat......Expensive !! Any recommendations from Anyone? I had a Black antifoul put onto my stainles steel trimtabs last season and it was a great improvement on the normal Blue used on the Hull but even with this the tabs have been covered in weed and marine plants for about 6 months of the year. In my case Tabs are the items closest to the surface and sunlight and are the areas that really breed the weed From the above test the Black antifoul was specifically for metal surfaces (I believe.) . it was put on by Holes Bay Marine at the last liftout and I don't remember the name Anyone got an idea? Peteg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wedger Posted January 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Thanks Charlie, I've booked Lloyd ealier today so we're part way there. The bit that sorta stumped me was the best choice of anti-foul as there's such a choice. Anyone know of a really good slick one for brackish water? Cheers Trev - what you are looking for is a trailer or dry stack!!! Done the trailer melarchy - which can be quite entertaining. I've often sat on the boat mooring sipping tea and watching the Keystone Cops at rush hour launching and recovering Nearly choked on my butter crinkles one time Loadsa people all jossling for their place on the slip when Flash Harry & Slick Dick show up on their 1000 HP 6 seat Seadoo, with go fast mirrors and a speed pennant. Slick looks after the DooDoo whilst Flash gets the wheels and barges his way back down the middle of the slip preventing access to all (just as well). Slick is revving up and promptly and very neatly drives his DooDoo right up onto the trailer. Just as Slick gets off and goes forward Flash is taking flack from the frustrated mariners around him and eases up the slip before Slick has gone two yards. You can see this unfolding 'ey? As Flash levels off at the top the trailer is tilted back a tad by the see-saw effect and there's a whole lot of DooDoo rushing down the slip for an unscheduled re-launch. Slick's face was priceless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wedger Posted January 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 I get the impression that the only Long Term antifoul is Copper Coat......Expensive !! Thanks Pete. I've heard mixed reports about copper coat. This was my first thought but has anyone got experience of this - good or bad? T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
great white Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Hi again guys we coppercoat new RIBS at work when they arrive, as we can lift them and blast them as often as we like. But one of them reacted badly to the treatment and developed osmosis or simular just out of warrenty. Some yachts have it done to prevent the need for annual antifouling. With to be fair mixed results, as you still get slime on the hulls, that has to be cleaned off. I thought of using it on Alfresco when new, but decided to epoxy and antifoul instead. we have done loads of tests over my 12 years at the Club, but with continued weakening of mixtures its hard to tell which is best now, although 1 thing does seem to stay constant "Black is Best" Perhaps Owen in the boat shop at Christchurch would know what works best down there. Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam F Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Like Charlie, I considered Copper Coat from new - ideal time to do it.... but wasnt convinced from the research I did, sure the website had good reviews as did a few magazines, but like Charlie, real life experiances were few and not too convincing. In the end we used the traditional route and went with a Blakes fast cruising antifoul and I must say it has been excellent, even with the minimal use JV has had this year her bum has stayed clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinbad Posted January 11, 2010 Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 Funnily enough, I was in the Christchurch boat shop at the weekend buying some anchor chain.... but thats another story... They have Blakes Tiger on offer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coddy Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 (edited) Interesting thread this. I use International Crusier Uno in Navy colour and seems to work well for 12mths. On the trim tabs I used Trilux and whilst I dd not prime the tabs it has stayed on fairly well will only a little growth. I have to repaint the leg each year and again I use Trilux and so far has worked well apart from the slime but does brush off easily. I have some prop sheald to try this year but needs to have the prop warm before coating it then when first coat done then slight warm again to allow it to "soak" into the metal and then given a second coat, supposed to be good for a minimum of 6mths. I too have been advised to use eroding antifoul but mainly for the the ease of replacing/repainting each year. Have a look on Jotun's web site http://www.shepherdmarine.com/index.php as many use this range of products to good effect. Dave Edited January 12, 2010 by Coddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petesnr Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 Would certainly endorse the idea of eroding antifoul it stops you having to remove umpteen layers of hard stuff every few years. Suggest investing in a wetsuit to keep bottom smooth. Spent some happy hours underneath mine clearing barnacles last year--only trouble is I'm now back to epoxy and need to get the boat home to repaint. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomBettle Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 If I was applying antifoul for the first time on a new boat of mine I would now not hesitate to use copper coat. A small slime coat will build up, but nothing worse and that will simply wipe / scrub off. I've not experienced any issues with it (as Charlie has) at all and have seen it applied to several dozen boats all with very good results. Oh, another good point is that I don't think it suffers if the boat is taken from the water for a period of time. Most traditional antifouls will begin to lose their properties after a week or two from the water. After a month or 6 weeks the paint will be all but useless. Expensive?!!! No way. It's an investment. Do it once at twice the price of normal antifoul and it will last ten times longer. In my mind that's +/- 1/5 the price of normal antifoul in the long run. The downside is that it has to be properly applied. Just my own opinion. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wedger Posted January 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 (edited) Very good discussion guys, thank you and keep it coming. Who knows anything about Coonicoat? (?? spelling) Sorry, CuNiGuard Edited January 12, 2010 by Wedger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomBettle Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 Very good discussion guys, thank you and keep it coming. Who knows anything about Coonicoat? (?? spelling) Sorry, CuNiGuard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mw Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 Hi Trev I put copper coat on my last boat it was a pig to put on but I had no growth on her but there was slime. I think I had to put five coats on and the pot life was about 45 mins mark w Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
great white Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 Hi Trev I put copper coat on my last boat it was a pig to put on but I had no growth on her but there was slime. I think I had to put five coats on and the pot life was about 45 mins mark w That shows the other consideration the cost is OK as an investment if you keep the boat for enough years A coat is about equivilent in cost, to a coat of AF, but you need 5 instead of one or two. the boat needs washing and abrading at least annually so no saving in haul out costs ,just AF costs and application in real terms its three or four seasons cost initially, so be sure you are keeping the boat, or you will be doing it for someone else. It will only enhance the price if the buyer likes copper coating. Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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