Steve S

I don't think there is a problem with the way you describe it being wired with the combine switch normally off being wired to bypass the house switch when on. It could have been wired so the house switch had to be on as well, however, there is an advantage the way it's wired, if the house switch fails you can still get power to the domestics.

Nice one Charlie, I'm a trigger virgin as well. Were you fishing for them Charlie?

If the boat hasn't got it already I do recommend volt meters on both batteries that can be seen all the time from the helm, my boat has them and it will quickly show up if one isn't being charged or in a poor state when the engines are off. I've fitted a 190w solar panel which with a MPPT solar charger does a great job of keeping the batteries topped up while at anchor/drifting. If you have room on the roof I'd recommend fitting one. I fitted a Bosch panel (same as on house roofs) about 6 years ago, chosen because it had been tested in salty air. No sign of any corrosion and vastly lower cost than the specialist boat ones.

Seems fairly normal to me, obviously you should run with the combine switch off, it's just for emergencies.

Well you got to be happy with that.

Multiplait doesn't work on all windlasses unfortunately, the manufactures spec normally state if it is compatible and what size. I had an old Lewmar on Tigerfish that the multiplait kept jamming in, replaced it with a Lewmar CPX 1000w which in the spec stated it was compatible and I've never had a jam since using the same rope and that includes regularly dragging the boat towards the anchor in fast tides.

I use multiplat with a windlass, works great no tangles, one key difference, as the rope comes out through the windlass I lay out it out by hand. One finger on the retrieve button the other hand in the locker putting the rope in strips. There is 200m of rope plus 15m chain in the locker. I don't think using 3 core is going to solve that problem of tangles it doesn't lay very well due to it's memory.

Good choice Andy, now if you could spend say a week on Jersey taking the boat out plenty getting to know it then it would be a lot less risk. VAT! If the boat was bought new in Jersey they may not have paid VAT, that would be due when bringing it back to the UK. Could be an unwelcome extra cost, it's always a question when selling boats in the UK.

Hope that's the only thing he drops on your cap!

Thick lipped mullet 4-5 - caught off the mooring

Evening session off the Needles

Looks just the job, well done Sam.

My first boat was a new 6m Bayliner 603, basically a speed boat with a 120hp diesel engine. I would not buy another. It needed too much TLC for salt water, the anodising was too thin, the fittings just a little bit too cheap. They are not nicknamed a binliner for nothing. If you just love doing boat care then it's the boat for you! Just my view, somebody else may have had a different experience.

I would go with Greenham Regis. They have repaired kit for me in the past, I have never felt taken advantage of. They sell Lowrance.

Good point to raise Adam, particularly in the height of Summer. I keep the fish alive as long as possible in the live well, bass, mackerel (if not too many), bream, flatties and cod generally stay alive until docked, pollock hooked in deep water don't. For short trips they get knocked on the head once the mooring, gutted and taken home (15 mins travel time) in a strong bag then straight into a Yeti (same quality as Icey-tek) with a lot of frozen plastic bottles, normally they are dealt with next day or the day after that or into a fridge, it's depends on the amount. If it's a hot evening I'll take something frozen from the on board fridge freezer box to keep the temperature in the bag down while driving. Ideally they would be kept cool as soon as dead but with a just short trip home it saves a lot of lugging the large Yeti containing frozen bottles to the boat and back, sometimes, like on a hot day I leave the Yeti in the car so the travel time becomes the walk along the pontoon. For overnight trips the Yeti filled with frozen bottles goes on board. For a wrecking trip where a lot of pollock is expected it goes on board but they go into the live well first if they show signs of life.

I'm heading to Brixham with Diane Saturday, it's going to a later start probably 10:30. We may catch a drift over the Shambles or try a wreck or two on route. I'll keep an eye out for you all on ch 6. After Brixham it will probably be Falmouth and then hopefully the Scilly Isles returning next weekend.

Yes that's the issue I had Jerry. The thing about chain attached at the bottom for me was it did work mostly, but when it didn't the first thing I knew about it was a snapped trip and the anchor swinging around bashing the boat. So as I wanted something to work 100% (99% would be ok) I took to lifting the last bit by hand, that was fine except when it was rough it wasn't ideal.

Chain was what I was using Martin, it didn't work for me. Rope might work and easy to try. I'm sticking with the wire now, it works, no need for me to change unless I encounter some problem with it.

It has a groove Jerry.

I've had a cable made up, 8mm wire, 60cm by Ocean Rigging at Lymington Yacht Haven, I called them up with the request and an hour later the cable was ready to be picked up, £32. Breaking strain is approx 3.5 tonnes, more than enough. I'm giving them a shout as I was well impressed. It was fitted last night, after 8 or so lifts with the anchor hanging in various positions underneath it appears to work everytime, the anchor when lifted slowly (I didn't try fast) rotates to the required position as the cable bends round the roller; no hint on any catching of the anchor by the roller causing the trip to break. An extended test in real at sea conditions is required to know it's a 100% fix. anchor lift.mp4 Notes: I may remove the shackle between the cable and swivel later, the cable will fit into the swivel. The shackles still needs to be moused. The orange rope is a floater it is to allow the anchor to the retrieved shank first after tripping. The heavy duty copper crimp edge was filed smooth to reduce chafe on the rope trip. The cable tie round the cable near the rope trip end does nothing, I will remove it. I'd say the cable it just long enough, it could have been made a bit longer. The cable is attached to the bottom of the anchor shank, this is important for the anchor to rotate into position as the cable bend round the roller. The random seeming shackel on the right will have a short rope attached to the anchor to stop the anchor falling into the water while underway (eeek!) in the event of a windlass fail.

Thanks Jim.

Charlie, can't view what you posted, .heic files, a new one to me.

A Botnia Targa 27 or 31 would do you nicely, I have the 31 model with twin Volvo D4-260s, it has a great live well build in. Wake boarding / water skiing is no problem, did some last week. Ticks all the boxes you listed plus a couple can sleep on it pretty well, Diane and I go touring on ours. A big plus they handle rough seas very well and at speed. They hold their price, mine is a 2006 model, 1300 or so hours, I can still get the price it was bought for new which is approx the same price I paid for it, build quality is very good. You have to maintain them well to hold their price like any boat, but then doing offshore trips like to Alderney they should be in kept in good order anyway for safety reasons. Botina make them to your spec within reason, some are customised for fishing from new, mine was, some for touring so a model like that would not have a live well so would need some adaption. The downside is finding one for sale, owners tend to hold onto them and they are expensive. The exclusive dealer for the UK is Wessex Marine in Salterns, Poole. They are a very helpful bunch.

Jerry, the S/S cable alongside the anchor, does it work ok?

Turbot of 6lb and 7lb caught on the Shambles bank.