charlieannear

Well, despite the lack of responses, Mum is off to this mysterious source this afternoon (Trago, for those of you who know of it ) and assuming they have any left we'll get a couple. I guess we can call this a product test!

Well my e-mail is on here but if I was sent a virus laden mail, then the virus protection deleted it without even letting me know.

Anyone got anything bad (or good!) to say about these? Found a place selling the 7' boat rod, 2 piece, 12-20lb or 30-50lb (also the telescopic versions of the same) for

Glad I asked the question!

Cool.... got to try this. I'm off to try barebacking my outboard now. Think I'll stick to using the ladder Or asking my mate in the boat to give me a hand

So: Igntion turns off ignition circuit, engine dies and therefore charging circuit dies. Turning off battery switch breaks the charging circuit causing feedback that will damage rectifier. Sorry to go on, and on, and on... Ha ha! Luckily I can reach the switch from outside of the boat, standing on terra firma. Now someone's going to tell me why that's a bad idea...

Thanks for that definite answer Paul! I do believe you all about blowing the rectifier, but what is the difference between turning off at the battery switch and the ignition switch? Just want to know the complete answer as I will need to explain it to my Dad! Bob- Do they secure crab pots with old dressing gowns then? Good point though- perhaps I'll sort out a hybrid along the lines of what Kam describes...

This'll teach me for trying to think too hard on a Friday afternoon... But turning the switch to off is breaking the electrical circuit- that won't stop the motor?

Thanks again Bob. I had read (in the 12 Volt Bible for Boats I think) that all switches sold bearing the 'CE' mark can be operated with the outboard running without the alternator field collapsing (that's only from memory but it was something like that ) I guess this relates to arcing/surges that might cause the damage that you describe. What about turning it to 'off' as an emergency method of shutting off the motor? I can't see how this would cause any damage?

One other thing, re operating the switch with the outboard running. What is the danger of doing this?

Thanks for clarifying this Bob.

Re-visiting this one... With reference to the digram for two batteries and a 1/1&2/2/Off switch on Bob's document. Please can anyone tell me the reasoning behind attaching the outboard cables directly to the battery, as opposed to connecting the outboard positive lead to the common terminal on the battery switch? Wiring as the diagram illustrates means that the outboard always has electrical supply available even with the switch in the off position. Wiring using the common terminal of the battery switch means that the outboard gets power from the source indicated on the switch, and if the switch is 'Off' the outboard is disconnected from the electrical supply. Sorry if I'm being thick!

Do any of you chaps have any reccomendations for a mobile mechanic to come and service my outboard? And how much is it likely to cost?

So I'm on the lookout for a bit of stainless or aluminium, i.e. something that won't rust but is thick enough to do the job, and not so thick that I can't cold bend it. Dimensions 440mm x 120 mm x 2 or 3mm. Can anyone see any problems with this, any suggestions, and where I can get a piece of metal? Please!

So what I want to do is make up a bracket, a bit like this...

Mornin' All due to the design of my Shetland, mounting a bow roller as far forward as possible doesn't really put the roller forward far enough. A bit like this...

As I understand it, you don't need as heavy a Bruce style anchor as you would for other types. I guess this is because is bites easier. Perhaps see Coddy's site under Other bits, Anchors. I've got a 5kg Bruce style for my 17' 7" Shetland and incidentally I got one with folding blades, (like this but I didn't pay as much at the Boat Jumble ) which should take up less space in my anchor locker. Paul D, I wasn't going to mention prices to Allan, which is why I just pointed him at the thread, you heartless sod! Mind you, you have now put a good ad on the open forum to encourage people to join the club!

Do you get another Gold Star on your name badge now Tom?

Have a look in the club members only section for an indication of rope prices: Rope prices

Typically the weather is 100% better today than all weekend, and the end of the week is now looking favourable too- Maybe it'll be just right for those of you who can get out during the week!

Which is why I was asking the other day if AY offer us a discount!

Employed my newly learned splicing talents this evening and my mate had a look at my eye splice and (as he always does) offered me his opinion, which being a flappy-fabric-power type of mariner was "It could do with a bigger loop mate" So, my question to you guys is: How big a loop do your eye splices have, and why?

What ropes do I need? The minimum would be A bow rope (what the Yanks call a dock rope) this should not be longer than the distance between the bow fixing point and the O/B. The thinking behind this is, if it falls over board and trails in the water there is no danger of it fouling the prop. I usualy have this rope fixed at the bow and then the working end brought round the cockpit and dropped in next to the helmsman seat where it can be picked up instantly A stern rope the same length which should be kept coiled inside the boat ready for instant use. Next a couple of longer ropes about 12M long with a Turks head (or monkeyfist) on one end These will be your 'Heaving Ropes' which could be used say to heave over to another boat to pull it alongside. The Monkey fist is a knot tied around a lump of lead which is the end you throw. These ropes can be also used as 'springs' which are used if mooring up at a quay or pontoon for a length of time. IMO all these need to be about 10mm diameter I also favour a light 6mm or 8mm rope about 18m long tied directly to a small folding anchor. I call this 'The Lunch Hook' it is ideal to use on a family day for short term anchoring in relativly shallow water. It's also good for dropping off the stern if you are running ashore for a picnic. Drop it pay the rope out and if you have judged it properly the nose will be just ashore with a nice little anchor astern ready to pull you off when it's time to go. Thanks Mike, I didn't think it would take long for this to be answered! That last guest post was me by the way... Before anyone else says it, if the bow rope shouldn't reach the o/b, then by the same logic the stern rope must be very short!

Evenin' All Now that I've got my rope (thanks Paul), and my first splice was successful (woohoo!), I'll need to start dividing up my reel. Star Turn doesn't have any ropes on board at the moment, so my questions are: What ropes do I need? How long should they be? Also, how long a piece of rope do you guys have attached to your fenders? C.

I agree with Coddy- as many megapixels and as much optical zoom as you can afford. The other thing to consider is what battery type. The ones with built in rechargeable battery tend to be smaller. Personally I went for one that takes normal AA batteries (Canon PowerShot A95). The cameras tend to be a bit larger, and the batteries don't last long compared to built in Lithium Ion ones, but if they go flat when you're out you can get AA's anywhere, whereas you might not have anywhere to plug in to charge up a Li-Ion one. I have 3 sets of rechargeables, and if they all go flat when I'm out I can go into a shop and buy a packet of duracells. Have a look at the digital camera reviews on: Computer Shopper They'll give you an idea of what to look for.