Andy135

Thanks Tiddler 👍. For my next trick, I'll be trying a chain to warp back splice. Wish me luck 🤞

As I said on the other site, ask him about the process for claiming on the warranty, how many other customers have successfully claimed, and ask to be put in touch with a couple of them for verification.

Also made up some lines for her a couple of weeks back. First time trying an eye splice. Pretty pleased with how they turned out. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

Replaced the deck wash pump today. Also tidied up the connections for the HDS9 and test fitted a new bait board. Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

🤣🤣🤣

Ouch! Your wallet has my deepest sympathies... 😥

Further to the above I've since removed the HDS5 from the second helm station, enlarged the hole in the wheelhouse and installed the HDS7 in its place. Wired up and fired up. All good. The original hole with the HDS5 removed. The template marked up, showing the areas of GRP to be removed. The finished installation.

So as with any used boat, there are a few niggles that I want to sort out on JY177. The list started off quite small, but the more time I spend working on her, the more things I find I want to do or fix. So far I've removed the Lowrance LSS-1 downscan/sidescan transducer and black box, and in its place I've installed the Active Imaging 3-in-1 transducer from Apache (the orginal Totalscan transducer has gone back on Apache). The LSS-1 kit may be available shortly - need to test that it works and assuming so I'll advertise it here. I've drained the propylene glycol from the Airmar M260 transducer tank and epoxied up a leak in the tank itself. Need to re-fill it with new fluid next. I've started to unpick the wiring loom from behind the helm - much of what is there seems to have been done well/competently, which is encouraging. There are some oddities but nothing too serious or un-fixable. For example, the deck light is not wired into a switch or power - just loose cables routed round to behind the dash. Or the fact that the existing plotters are wired into the permanent live side of the switch panel, and therefore aren't actually switched, or the fact that the stern bilge pump was wired to run off the Start battery instead of the House. I've also replaced the diaphragm on the manual bilge pump which had gone dry and cracked along the fold inside. And nipped up a small weep in the main helm hydraulic unions. Had to go and buy a 16mm spanner for that. I'll replace the hydraulic fluid with new and bleed the system shortly. Next up is to install the HDS 9 Live from Apache and remove the old HDS 8 Gen 1 from the helm, then figure out how to cover or make use of the hole that it will leave Then replace the desk wash pump. Here's the old one. The new one is sitting on my desk waiting to be installed. Two new flush-fit rod holders are on their way from Italy which will be installed in the corners of the splashwell top surface, and two new batteries are already on the boat waiting to be installed. Also need to re-wire and re-secure the forward bilge pump as I found it rolling around free in the bottom of the hull. Then replace the ground tackle with a longer length of chain and more rode. The current set-up has 6mm chain barely half the length of the hull, and only 70m-ish of rode. Then after all that is done, I can go fishing...

Bit of chewing gum and some duct tape and it'll be fine Neil... 😥🤞

Does anyone know if these are generally interchangeable between manufacturers? Do they all have the same thread and diameter? I want to change the one that came on the boat, but it's just a plain white filter with no branding or specs to replace like for like.

For what it's worth, most 16.5 ft boats with a well set up trailer should be straightforward to launch single-handedly. I should know, as I used to launch mine solo when I first started out. Preparation is key to an easy solo launch, as is good trailer maintenance.

I'm 99% sure the switches are working ok but will double check this weekend when I'm next at the marina.

I plan to relocate some flush fit rod holders from the middle of the splashwell top to the corners. This means I'll have two lovely round holes in the top surface of the of splashwell, about 45mm in diameter. What's the best way to fill and gelcoat these?

That sounds like a top days' dangling! Good work the pair of you #notjealousatall... much...😭😄👍

Thanks Mikey - that seems like the right approach.

Yes, the Combine switch should normally be off, but that's not really my question. What seems strange is that even when the House battery is isolated, power is still getting to the domestics when the Start and Combine switches are turned on. Can anyone help me understand why that should be (other than perhaps a previous owner made a mistake in the wiring)? If the House switch is off, surely the Combine switch can't/shouldn't override that?

Thanks again Mikey - what you describe is what appears to be in situ on the boat. As it's a new to me boat I'm trying to ensure that the wiring is as it should be. What's foxing me though is that the domestics have power when the Start isolator and Combine switches are on, but the House isolator is off. Surely if the House is isolated there should be no power to the domestics at all?

Mikey, you're exactly right. Last night I found that on mine the 40a fuse has already been moved from A to B position (switched places with the blanking plug). What do you mean by "isolator"? As in an isolating switch in the pink cable? Or a House battery isolator switch?

Now that's far too sensible a suggestion. Must try harder...! 🤣👍

Steve, I like the idea of voltmeters. 👍 I found last night that the engine does indeed have the ability to charge two batteries simultaneously and that someone in the boat's past has connected the auxiliary charging wire to the House battery already, which explains why there's no CCR/VCR installed (the engine does this already). I'm still not clear why the Start and Combine switches draw from the House when the House is isolated though. I'm guessing it must be wired incorrectly as it makes no sense and is a drain risk if the House and Start are not truly isolated.

After doing some online research, it seems that the DF300 has the ability to charge two batteries separately, which could explain why I haven't seen a CCR/VCR unit. Need to explore this avenue further when I'm at the boat next.

Thanks both. I have yet to find the CCR. I was planning to install an Add A Battery kit with the automatic charge relay (I installed one of these on my Predator and it's worked faultlessly) which is why I was curious as to the current set up. I noticed on the sea trial that the previous owner ran with the combine switch on, so I wonder if there isn't actually a CCR and he was using the combine switch to enable both batteries to be charged.

Checked the tanks on the weekend. About 150 litres used out of 300l capacity, so for a 120-ish NM trip that's around 1.25l per NM.

Yesterday I spent a bit of time getting to know the new boat a bit better.... I found that despite the previous owner saying that there wasn't a battery combine switch, in fact, there is. But what's strange is that when the Start battery and combine switches are ON, but the House switch is OFF, the domestics still receive power... turn off the combine switch and they don't, until the House switch is turned ON. Seems like the combine switch must be bypassing the House isolation switch. Is this normal? Seems odd to me.

Thanks Martin, I happen to agree 😍 Dry stack is in Gosport. Here's a vid of the cockpit area for those that are interested.