duncan

I think they used to use Teflon, but have recently 'moved on' to PTFE under the natty trademark of PTEF. They both aim to do the same thing the same way. I don't believe they do one with both - but I may be wrong!

found out yesterday afternoon that the yard had not done my trim tab anodes as requested. grabbed new before the shop shut and went to do them this morning, stainless bolts into aluminum anodes which had corroded solid - to the point that you could not get the allen key in! half an hour to find some electrikery then half an hour upside down with angle grinder, safety glasses misted up, in wind and rain down the back of the neck to get the old ones off, 2 mins to get the new on, cut em off and replace. boats who would have em! good luck and hope it goes better than the above I'm confused - it is normal to use stainless bolts to secure anodes (aluminium or zinc) to steel; do I take it your trim tabs are aluminium (which would make sense re the bolts but less with regard to the anodes )

I would expect the majority of bow fittings to fail from the angled loading before the windlass itself (or it's mountings) - either way it's good to raise the point that it's not the way to do it!

windlasses don't like slack when recovering warp, and won't be much quicker at this point either. we used to recover the last time via the windlass (to get everything back in the locker and stow the anchor) but by ring and hand is the fast route - both for that recovery and for the next drop; I don't free fall the windlass but I do remove the line from the windlass and free fall it through my hands (gloved) but it's a lot easier over the side!

if the boat's in the water make sure the seacok is closed - otherwise just ...... 1. remove the 6 phillips head screws around the pump handle 2. remove the top, which may, or may not remove the black gasket with it - not the way it goes. 3. remove gasket and clean with an old toothbrush - or a new one if geeling flush.... 4. put back together 5. pour a few pints of fresh water into the bowl 6. open seacocks 7. add a bit of cooking oil to the water in the bowl 8. pump the gasket has two brass sealing plugs on it and they will frequently build up deposits around them which then conspire to break any seal necessary for the operation of the damm thing. new seals is the last option...

care is required on the drop if releasing the clutch - there is a splitter around the gypsy and whilst it shouldn't catch the chain (it can) it is very good at catching anchor plait if any slack occurs! This will of course only bed the thing, but then it catches more easily etc etc not the end o the world to replace/straighten and rebuild but be aware. Tom - love your confidence; haven't met a small plannig boat windlass installation that doesn't exhibit significant voltage drop and heated cables when in use. Then again there's always the exception that proves a rule I didn't mean this comment as a critism - all bow installations are going to be a compromise on small planning craft and there's nothing wrong with that.

firstly I agree with the chairman's approach.... when anchoring in relatively deep water (anything over tide range + 3m!) there are quite a few downsides to using the windlass - regardless of the set up. most small boat windlasses will be relatively underpowered, wiring will err on the thinner side (to keep the weight down as well as cost) and the net result is that the windlass will run 'slow', and that's before you end up further loading it with the 'weight of the boat' in the tide (we would constantly nudge the boat forward to balance the loading - not too much or the rode wont bite in the gypsy). further downsides are that you would generally have to wait until the tide turns before recovering from uptide a wreck - or you will loose the lot.... given that you should always carry a full spare set up onboard - makes a lot of sense to carry it in a bucket with an alderney set up. Obviously those craft with walkround decks and access, together with good cleats etc, have an advantage when it comes to rigging/using. further you will catch more fish - simply because you will move, or re-anchor, when you need to; rather than putting off 'the pain'

everythings relative! I believe my 3m inflatable one is 35kg and advertised as very light!

because they wouldn't be discards if they were retained for a commercial purpose - simples as to the rest, I've posted my solution before; it's not complex and it's designed to make it in everyones interests to minimise bycatch. 1. everything landed 2 up to 50% of the next years quota (for all species) permitted, on a proportionate accrual basis ie after 6 months you would have this years quota plus 25% against next years quota available. 3. once this is met for any species the boat stays in dock infringements to be met with commercially appropriate measures ie they don't make commercial sense.

commercial applications for discards is an oximoron

Dave, Surely 16 and 17" are the pitch? - it's unlikely that you will get alternative diameters for such OB engines. Generally, beyond the pitch you tend to move to number of blades and related profiles for OBs. Also conventional theory has it that the alloy prop is less efficient at higher revs, through flexing, and that a 16 SS would equate to a 17" alloy (rather than the other way round). Personally I'm not convinced that this is actually what happens in practice but that's another issue! However, back to the original post, 4200 is simply miles away from the working WOT for that engine. If my memory serves me it's high 5's to mid 6's so there's about 2000rpm 'missing'. Obvious questions would revolve around what hull speed was being achieved at 4200? This would give a quick indication of whether this is simply massively overpropped in the mistaken belief that this improves fuel economy (it doesn't), overloaded, or other issues.

Mike The first thing that occured to me when reading the initial post was that some steps would be simply useless without others - so it's important to link them to achieve any positive result in the long term. Later posts, and your summaries, seem to be doing this quite naturally. However, it might be worthwhile grouping the initial steps to better understand the most logical approach. There is also some sensible contribution re bag limits. As an example of the above I would see it as more appropriate to ban ALL netting of any sort within 1 mile of the shore unless specifically authorised (game fish licences could be an example of such an exception). Mesh sizes are always a challenge as, depending on the actual use of the net, it may or may not have any practical impact....and that's before you get into the issues of using prawn nets in areas with young cod (for example). On balance steps that will influence behaviour are best. It follows that without appropriate penalties (likelyhood of capture, prosecution and scale of penalty) it is entirely pointless to pursue any of these steps at all - for all parties will simply ignore it's aims and deal with any outcome as an inevitability rather than something to be considered. This therefore has to be step 1 but needs to cover many things. In fact, until you have dealt with this there is no point in even discussing any other steps - but, if I was to go one step further it would definitely be Food chain species protections. It's strange that byecatch gets the emotive reaction it does when it's still in the marine fod chain whilst a million tonnes of sandeels being fed to pigs goes unnoticed...wierd.

it was the only thing that made me happier to have the boat in the water over winter! no doubt I will have major damage to the boat an dthe caravan (again) when I next get down in mid March really thought I was going to be OK this year - mind you the boat was fine last year and the weather was worse then (I thought) time will tell

doesn't sound silly to me, however I would consider replacing whatever it is with a stopcock fitting first ie use the hole but substitute the fitting... you can get them in Marelon then add an appropriate softwood plug to your safety kit onboard and you have the bases covered

I wonder if he got that new boat he wanted for his birthday.. Many happy returns Martin - if I could give you a years 'excellent crusing/fishing weather' I would

thanks for pointing out my lazy choice of words - I agree it was misleading reinforced nylon, such as Marelon, would have been much better.

this happened a long time ago, but might help to summarise the relevant bits for this audience - 1. battery isolation should be the +ve terminal 2. brass throu hull fittings should be tested annually (arguably avoided on small craft in favour of nylon - my comment not the MAIB) 3. brass fittings should never be subjected to excessive tightening - stresses created can speed up de-zincification/corrosion. general advice on battery positioning, watertight bulkheads and bilge pumps.

firstly you can't have one glass of wine too many (for the internet!).... your posts did get me seriously considering coming down (and staying on Phaeton for a bit) but I have to say I'm not quite as enthusiastic about the fishing conditions as I was initially...

OK - I have put Nov 25th in my diary for this........

it is worthwhile having the skeg - 1. as it was strength wise 2. as it was flow wise 3. as it was steeringwise depending on the nature of the damage this can be achieved professionaly by welding, or with good modern epoxy.

Tom's covered the what - a bit on the why... The are elements associated with the loading on the transom, both the simple force and the angular. Then there are some (old) thoughts about the simple weight associated with power units - for older models the manufacturer will have used this despite the significant power to weight improvements over recent years (and the potential difference between 2 units of the same nominal power). Where this is the only relevant original design element driving the restriction you may find the manufacturer has issued an update over any onboard plate. Then you have the power potential to drive the hull and it's design speeds. Gererally manufacturers aren't in the business of one off approvals of any increase - however appropriate. Beware verbal statements by distributors ie 'It's fine with a 75...'. Back to your original post - I would expect that a 19ft craft that has a 50 (ie it's a planning hull) should be rated to at least a 75, so you just need to research it.

APRIL??? Assuming you mean the May dates I'm goin if (and when) the weather suits - and will probably have enough beer on board for even Dean! Being a leap year I'm really hoping the weather will go back to what it was 4 years ago, and we can start planning again.

best of luck to all of you

this is only the skippers not sure it matters as I will bet these sums won't be recoverable! and then on course the costs of the case will exceed the value of the scam too... call me a cynic but the criminals will still be quids in and the fish stocks will have suffered the loss.

looks constructive