Barry

I had this problem. I found the only cure was to keep the cables as far apart as possible as well as the aerials. Also found a big improvement running the VHF off its own dedicated feed from the battery. Still with a switched fused line.

The best place I've found for refurbing props is Steel Developments. A google search will throw up the web site. They've refurb'd my prop for me on a number of occasions. For 36 quid you can't go wrong.

If your going for an auto then check it has, or fit, a transmission cooler. Most don't come with them some do. You WILL need it if your towing any distance/weight. Its very easy to boil the trans fluid.......I've done it on more than one occasion! Personally I prefer a manual for towing.

Dan, 4hp on your boat will be too small if theres any tide running. It'll keep you out of trouble at best. I've a 21ft Tremlett and a 4hp 4 stroke mariner. It will just push the thing along at slack water. Ok I never really got it as an aux. It was purchased for the dinghy that gets used as a tender when the family want to play. Realisticaly a 6 will just about do it, but I would err on the safe side and go for 8horses as a min. Get a bracket and offer it up to determine wether you need a long or short shaft. If the prop isn't in deep enough you'll loose propulsion when the boat lifts and rolls in a swell. Steering with an aux on your type of boat is a right royal pain. Been there done that. I'got hold of an extention handle which makes things a bit easier.

I found these stainless rod holders easy to use. They don't mount on rails tho. 360 degree all round and from vertical to 30 degree. http://www.marine-hardware.co.uk/acatalog/...Holders_19.html

The consant is the waterline length. This formula only works for full displacement boats. Planning type hulls are a different kettle of fish altogether. Even then its not totally accurate as you rally need to take into account the thrust from different propellers. There is another formula that will give the theoretical top speed of a full displacent hull using the waterline length. A little prog on the Steel Developments site is a bit more applicable to planning hulls as it will give prop sizes for given hull lengths/motor hp outputs. But then prop sizes is a whole subject by itself.

I think we're talking about different things. The stuff I used comes on a roll 4 mtrs wide from a flooring co.

On past boats I've used a floor covering that is used behind the bars in pubs. It looks smooth but is actually rough to the touch. I've also seen it used in wet areas. I've a bit left over here in the garage but not sure it would be enough to do your deck. Go to a local flooring company and I'm sure that they'll be able to sort you some out. It'll be a fraction of the cost of Treadmaster.

Thanks, but I'm going to have to amend my profile as I'm nowhere near eighty! 40 today all down hill from now on!

I've a little Bonwitco for pottering around the harbour in. Great little boats for what they are. Great hull and should be ok pottering around poole bay in the right conditions. Can be a bit heavy for pulling over a beach but given a half decent slip you'd have no probs. With the 20 hp it will really fly. I use and ancient mariner 20 on mine which gives a good turn of speed. Kimmeridge shpould present few problems with your boat taking the weather/seastate into consideration.

Most interested. Whats sort of condition?

http://easytide.ukho.gov.uk/EasyTide/EasyTide/index.aspx

Its messy if you get it wrong. Putting the gun over the hole, as described above, is the best way. Compress it then release the bleed valve while pulling the plunger and repeat. I've given up on those now and got hold of a gun that runs of the compresser. The grease comes in cartridges akin to silicon sealent tubes that just load into the gun. Looking at the cost its slightly more expensive but theres a hell of a lot less waste.

With a title like "Rod and Reel suggestions" you'll be here until next year! Everyones got their own preferences. For heavier fishing I haven't found better value than a Shakespeare XK3000 50lb class rod. Full carbon job for less than 50 quid. Its got backbone when required yet has a sensitive tip to indicate "light" bites. You'll not go wrong with Penn reels. I've had one for longer than I care to remember. Never let me down never failed to perform. "clunky" by todays standards but very well engineered. Shimano's are worth their weight in gold. The Charter specials should be twice the price. Well made and reliable. The lever drag is faultless. If your used to a star drag then levers can take some getting used to user wise. It all boils down to How much do you want to spend? I find a lot of tackle dealers will give you something if your spending a few quid on a couple of outfits. Theres a lot of capable tackle out there its finding the dealer thats going to give you "The deal"

G3 is a polishing compound made by Fareclea. Its fairly course and good for taking out blemishes. After using that I'd finish of with some G10 which is a finishing compound. It really puts the shine on the finish. After that I'd apply a good teflon wax for a lasting protection......christ I sound like an advert on a cable shopping channel!

Angle grinders run at to higher RPM. You'll be in danger read probably will, of burning the compound into the gel coat. Theres a fair bit of heat generated by the compound at those sorts of speeds. For a not too expensive semi prof polisher look at silverline tools. I bought one of their polishers from my local stockist for less than 40 quid. You can buy online if you want. A good robust tool not too heavy and a lot better than the rubbish sold in halfords and B&Q. I'm surprised no ones mentioned Dilunette gel for removing the old AF. Nitromors do a stipper designed for GRP. It'll take off the paint but leave the gel intacted. Dilunette is the stuff to use tho. Brilliant stuff. I used it on a whole boat and stipped off 4 layers of paint in one go. Applied it left it overnight and scraped/washed it off in the morning. I've also used a power washer with a sand blasting attatchment with good results. You need to be careful not to go over areas wher the AF has been removed tho. Made that mistake once, won't do it again!

If it were me I'd use a 1,2,Both battery switch. It gives more flexability to the sysytem. The way your proposing to do it if the service battery drains down it'll draw off the start batt. Or vice versa. With a 3 way switch you'll be able to isolate either batt or run them in paralell for those really cold mornings! Plus you'll be able to recharge a flat batt whilst running much quicker having just one batt on line. It seems that most, if not all, builders do it this way so something must make sense. Keep the cables as short as poss with good soldered joints and good quality cables. All should be fine.

Oh well, these things are sent to try us. Lets face it, it wouldn't be boating if everything went smoothly! The company at Kemsing couldn't help then? There was a power steering system for a mercruiser on B&O. Don't know wether it would be the same cooler tho.

It was worth a shot. How did the oil cooler go. Were you lucky with that?

I doubt wether the helm unit will need grasing. Though I would grease the engine swivel at the grease nipples on the outboard and also smear some grease on the exposed part of the cable where it goes thru the tilt tube. Don't mix greases. Find out what has been used an stick to using that type otherwise you'll have probs in the future.

The only slip I know of in weymouth is located in the upper/inner harbour above the bridge. Opposite the multi storey car park. Ok slip with parking for the trailer but not the car. Been told that the size you can launch is limited, but I've launched my 21 footer there before. Thats the one that would be used for this event, unless others know better and I've got it totally wrong!

All good suggestions and I must be a mind reader! Had a stroke of luck today, It was one of those days that you stumble across a place you never knew was there. Working up in the smoke in Battersea and came across a tackle shop. Wandered in for a mooch around as you do. Got talking to the chap in there, as you do, about this that the other and fishing. Anyway got round to boat fishing and what I want to add to the armoury. He came out with a nicely finished full carbon 11ft spinning rod suitable for shore/rock and a 9ft version which would be great off the boat. Now this is where the luck comes in, he let me have both for 60 quid! Don't know what they're called as there's no names on them. Though the fit and finish is rather nice and of good quality. Can't really go wrong for that money.

With the engine you have Dan that won't matter too much. I won't last that long once you start it up! Just add a few gallons of fresh stuff and watch the fuel needle drop when you open the throttles!!

Not wanting to be pedantic. The Post description says "Club Trailaway trips", which I would take for PBSBAC members. But it says for "Registered members of the forum". So does that mean all or just fully paid up members? I wouldn't mind going on that!

I'm after a spinning rod to use from the boat and beach/rocks. Spinning rods always seem to be of the lesser quality type of rod. I've looked a few sites with very poor results. Basically I'm after something with a bit of quality rather than the 6/7 foot cheap rods advertised. It should be around the 9 feet mark to allow decent casting with enough backbone to handle half decent fish. What do people use/suggest?