Seamouse

Jim, As stated, WOT range for the 75hp e-tec is 4500-5500rpm. The earlier e-tecs came with a 17" semi-race prop pattern which put a 165 squarely into the middle of the rev range. The later pattern 17" prop (circa 2006 onwards) gave me 4100 max rpm under perfect conditions. Warrior reckoned the low rpm would afford good fuel economy and not bother the engine, all other sources said it would strain the drivetrain in the long-term I did find (late 2007) the older style Evinrude props still for sale but they were more expensive than a simple Solas 15" prop which gives me 5200rpm WOT. Top speed on the 17" prop about 30 knots, on the faster spinning 15" prop 28-29knots. You takes your choice. Your current prop is actually faster on top speed than the 15" and may be more fuel-efficient cruising, but may also be argued to be accelerating engine wear and possibly negates the warranty (??). The 15" puts it all right, at about

You could easily rig a retaining clip on a length of rope, to just hold the tabs up out of the way while you launch. Steve

I have them on SeaMouse (165 with 75hp e-tec). They allow a greater range of trim control from the engine tilt, as without them the engine is pretty well fully trimmed in at all times just to keep the bow under control. I'm on 40lb units with settings for thrust and angle at 50%. This is quite mild, I'd probably get an even smoother hole shot with a harder setting but I'm happy. No change at all in top speed or in fuel economy, just instant transition onto the plane and a far more civilised ride. Downside, as said, they're vulnerable on a shallow launch and clutter up the stern rather. An easy retrofit - I had Warrior supply but not fit so that I could get a feel for the hull before I added them. Steve p.s I've also run a Warrior with 80lb SmartTabs for a while. It was a nightmare. If you get recommended the 60lb units, start out on very light settings at first!

Hi Barney, Couple of useful ones: Drill drain holes in the gunwhale pocket bases (if you have them), also under the lip of the bucket seats if fitted. Bolt stainless eyes to the back of the console and the anchor locker bulkhead and stretch bungee ropes between them as a luggage restraint. Tape pipe insulation around those stupid face-level grab handles on the edge of the cuddy - someone is going to lose their teeth on them one day Pipe insulation is good on all the rails - protects the rod rings - but most people prefer their shiny stainless steel to be visible Take the seats off their bases and pack the bearing race of the swivel with waterproof grease. Once you are used to the boat, you can relocate the seats on the base to give more space between them if required. Have fun with her! Steve

After a bad experience with over-powerful trim tabs, I had the small 40lb ones fitted. They make a huge difference to the handling but they are also soft enough that I can trim the bows up in a following sea. Having run for home this spring in a tail wind gusting 7 (don't ask), I can say for sure that they don't enforce broaching. On the other hand, you do have to live with two tea-trays sticking out from the stern. I like the way a 165 with tabs handles but I have to say, this whole porpoising thing on various forums has started to get tiresome. The bare 165 hull handles perfectly well, is inherently safer with the slightly light bow and even on a dead flat day when you've got the hammer down, the porpoising is no big deal and minimised anyway by some intelligent weight distribution. What, me? Tetchy? Steve

Looking at the website pictures, I'd guess the 170 is actually a Pro Angler hull. Same outer shape as the 165 but different construction completely. Interesting splashwell shape, looks like they've tried to claw back some extra deck space. Steve

Pete, Just a warning note - if you've changed the datum on the GPS, it will have automatically adjusted all the numbers already in there i.e it will have kept the original error. You now need to go through and re-enter all your WGS datum numbers that you had entered under thw wrong datum. Steve

Hi folks, Useable slip at Minehead despite a slight dogleg, low water means going out onto sand with some muddy patches - be wary. Blue Anchor has two slips onto the beach, both a bit too tight. Good slip at Watchet Marina but you'd be restricted by lock times for getting in and out. Porlock Wier is probably pushing a bit too far down the channel and only accessible 2 hours either side high water. Steve

Hi Jim, SeaMouse is a 165 with Smarttabs. They make a big difference, she planes earlier, is less sensitive to lateral shifts in load underway and porpoising is eliminated. They do, however, occasionally get in the way of lines running under the stern and they are right where you don't want them on a shallow launch. For a drying mooring, beach launched, or one that regularly gets tipped out shallow enough to touch the stern down, I'd avoid them. The thrust rating is important. My Pro Angler had 80lb tabs on it and it was plain evil in a stern sea. I think 60lb is the usual issue, but I've put 40lb ones on and they work great. On midway thrust and lift settings I get the bow nicely down with the engine dead level, but on a following sea I can get the bows well up. Steve

Hi Charlie I've PM'd you numbers for the 68m hole. Steve

Hi Charlie, If you do plan to plug all the way east to St Caths, you really do need to plan it on a neap. The tide push is very heavy and the overfalls are something else. When the tide is pushing a bit too hard to anchor the deeps, its just right for drifting the rise for pollack and bass though Let me know if you go - given the right conditions it is just about at the limits of my range. Steve

The clue is in the depth, Charlie. Most probably St Caths and at 260ft probably the 68m hole. There seem to have been a few boats doing well there, looking around the various forums Steve

Hi Charlie, I've tried the same rig the other way up, with a small baited circle rigged BELOW a big hook, but it wasn't too good at hooking the bait fish up with the upper hook nicely presented. Have to try it your way Steve

Hi Dave, For my 4hp auxiliary, I found I could easily backflush with Salt-X using a 50ml syringe and filling tube. I see no reason why that could not be scaled up to a bigger engine, especially one with an existing hose adaptor. On a more general front, Salt-x's intentions are clearly to get the Salt-x circulating then shut down the engine, i.e they are leaving it in to 'soak'. Wouldn't get the engine warm enough in 30 seconds to open the stat, as pointed out, and requires huge volumes in a barrel. For those with flushing adaptors, I'd suggest warming the engine fully on earmuffs so that the stat is most definitely open, shut off the engine then gravity feed warm Salt-x in through the flushing port. That way you'll get past the stat and only have to use a litre or two of the stuff. The gravity feed is easy, just a hose to the flushing adaptor, a funnel at the business end and fill it from as high above the engine as you can reach. Steve