gjb Posted October 6, 2015 Report Share Posted October 6, 2015 Hi When i get my boat it will have a windlass fitted is it best to use 3 strand 10mm rope or multiplat i have never had one so don't know oh and 8mm chain graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve S Posted October 6, 2015 Report Share Posted October 6, 2015 I think multiplat is better as it beds down well in the anchor locker and does not twist up. You just need to be sure the windlass supports it check on the manufacturers brochure. Mine does and it works great. gjb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjb Posted October 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2015 Thank you I have multiplat on now so when it arrives I will check lots of new bits to learn about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coddy Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 Allan's been looking at a windlass as well for his boat but from what I have seen in the specs most recommend 3 strand nylon. Multiplat is nice but expensive and from what I have seen on other boats and my own experience the windlass is not that kind to the rope, so I would save some money and by the 3 strand nylon and replace it when it is worn or frayed. You may well have to purchase calibrated chain as well, which adds to the overall costs involved. A lot depends on how you want the anchor to recover and drop. We have only found one make that has an electric free fall to drop the anchor from the cabin. I would steer clear of those which offer a corded remote control as in many cases you will need two hands to deal with the warp and possibly the anchor. Foot controls at the front may well be useful however. Powered lowering can be painfully slow and many require you to go up front and release the clutch to allow a fast drop, this may not be nice on a sloppy sea state day. Also I hope you have a good deep anchor well as many state the minimum drop required to prevent a build up of rope and chain in the storage well. The other thing to consider is a self launch and recovery bow roller and possibly a plate on the bow to protect the gel coat as the anchor comes up out of the water and is swinging about. Lots to look into, if you can see another craft the same as yours, check out how they have installed the windlass and if possible ask the owner if they have had any issues. Good luck Dave gjb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 Redfin came with a windlass and quite honestly it is totally redundant being so slow and cumbersome it is far quicker and easier to use an Alderney ring set up. If you still have the choice I would substitute another toy! Peter gjb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 How about fitting a capstan, I know some have them. Not sure if there was a write up from Charlie and the fitment on alfresco, but that seems a great solution to pulling in the Alderney ring and buoy. Even could be used I guess to pull an anchor that is being dropped from the bow roller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 Dave also has the same winch as alfresco but his has been set up through the rollers and over the bow. dad also has a smaller windlass on the bow which is for the inshore anchor when playing in studland in the summer, the small windlass can be a pain with the rope getting caught feeding back into the locker, you also have to be on the front with foot controls to stop the chain and anchor hitting the front of the boat, hence why this is rarely used. however it is a great novelty when out with the family when you don't want to run the anchor back onto the deck with young kids around. it also great in tight spaces i.e. the air show as you don't have to run off with the anchor in heavy traffic. the capstan fitted to the side of the boat with a heavy roller in place is a great addition, yes it is still lifted with an Alderney ring and the traditional method, and if fishing inshore is still normally pulled in by hand by Dan or myself as it is quicker than waiting for the winch. however when using the larger anchor/heavier chain in deeper water it is a life saver, especially after a day of re anchoring a couple of times. Alderney method is still by far the most superior method, but this is a creature comfort. if you can afford it why not let machinery take the strain, we do in everything else. I do agree with rob though in the fact that a capstan would be more useful than a windlass as you are not restricted to a specific setup, you are also safely in the back of the boat if anything does go wrong with no need to go on the bow hope this helps sam Maverick Martin, gjb and Stuie 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve S Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 For my boat (Targa 31) a high power windlass is brilliant as it has a walk round deck, there are no safety issues being on the bow. 4 mins to retrieve 100m, I free the clutch to allow the anchor to drop at a fast but controlled rate. Looking at the photo of a Parker 770 I'm not sure I would want to be walking up to the bow if it cut up rough while at anchor or indeed freeing the clutch for a manual release while dropping anchor. As Dave says using the winch to drop the anchor is very slow, too slow IMO for precision anchoring at the sort of depth's we get round here. I think you would be better off on safety grounds staying in the stern of the boat and use a high power side mounted capstan (if possible), or Alderney ring with a rode run channel to a good quality roller on the bow. gjb and Sam 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjb Posted October 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 thanks i have always used the Alderney ring so it may be a case of using the windlass for shallow and Alderney ring for deep graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian.Jones Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 I have a 23' Grady White in New Zealand with an anchor winch - which has a rope/chain gypsy using 12m of chain spliced on to 150m of 12mm multi plait, anchoring in depths up to 60m. This has been trouble free from new (7 years) with no chafe etc. This allows me to recover the anchor from the cockpit while on my own and in rough seas. Drop speed is acceptable, but there are not the strong tides that we have to contend with here. Secret is to make sure the gypsy is well matched to the size of rope and chain, don't skimp on chain and take care to get a good smooth splice to the chain. Occasionally I have to rock the drum a little to get the chain to engage on the gypsy as it changes from rope - and occasionally I have to spread the rope in the anchor locker if it piles up after a deep water anchoring, but this is because I have three times as much warp as the boat builder recommends, so the rope locker is full. I trip the anchor, happily venture into rough ground, and am still on the original anchor. Works well for me, although on JV we decided to save the cost of a winch and use an Alderney ring for UK tides and depths. But we would rarely be without a second pair of hands to assist recovery. Ian gjb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coddy Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 The fitting of a capstan in the deck area on a craft with walk around sides would be a pain and I suspect a safety issue should you need to get past it in a hurry or in a rough sea. Boats which don't have this feature capstans seem to work well, however even on some of the newer charter boats have to have a capstan/winch on the bow as they too have walk ways around the cabin especially on some of the cats. There may also be an issue in getting sufficient reinforcement for the mounting of a windlass as the pull and strain can be considerable especially if the anchor gets stuck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjb Posted October 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 This is factory fitted so I take that they have made the boat to the standard required to use it , it is not a add on Graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leicester Fisheagle Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 I am still in France for the next week or so, but may add to this thread when I get back. Looking at fitting a winch and combined capstan with both on the same side so the rope can go from one to the other if necessary. Some stainless strengthening which Coddie's son may make as he he is setting up his own fabrication/stainless steel/welding business and has access to lazer cutters etc.Will also install a self launching roller, cabin and foot controls etc. It will be side mounted over the anchor well and have about a foot more drop than the Jeanneau factory fitted ones, also, I hope to enlarge the anchor well lid so the rope sits better. Will have to go for slightly larger chain and rope as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
great white Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Its the limited drop into the anchor locker that stops us using the bow capstan in deeper water. It is a 1kw unit so has power and speed, also a gypsy that takes calibrated chain and rope. Deeper water we have always used an alderney ring and drifted back to recover the warp and chain, with a 15kg anchor and heavy/long chain its good excercise. So much so that 18 months ago I fitted a side deck capstan. 1.6kw high speed (their words not mine) and a good size drum. It recovers the anchor warp a treat via the side deck roller, but its far too shiney to wrap chain around in my opinion. Sure its quicker to haul by hand, but the capstan takes the strain off of the job. It takes up some deck space, but in my opinion is not a tripping hazard fitted where it is. After all we can always use the other side deck. Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
great white Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Allan The other option I considered was changing my original 9.5mm gypsy to a 7 or 8mm one, then swapping the 10m of 10mm chain to a full 30m length of the much smaller and lighter stuff. In shallow water I could then use all chain, which would stow better in the anchor locker. It is the fact that we spend more time in deeper water than shallow, that made my mind up to go for the more expensive side deck option. Be carefull with the size of cables breakers etc that you need for these units and combined weights. My unit wieghs 24kg and the cables are heavy. All of this weight on the same side of the boat as the helm seat and cooker meant that a few things had to be moved to lockers on the opposite side. Hope that helps Leicester Fisheagle 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fisherman1055 Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 I have a delta anchor with 25m 8mm Chain and rope on my windlass , great for watching the air show or anchoring in the harbour, I have 10m of 8mm chain and 175 m of 14mm multi plait for my deep water anchor which I retrieve with An Alderney ring, the only sensible way to anchor in deep water. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverick Martin Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Same as him above although not completely set up yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Fox Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 Have been watching this with interest. Frisky has a 16kg CQR anchor with 40m of 8mm chain plus 20m of anchorplait, weighing an additional 64kg. This is to securely anchor 6 tons of boat in almost any weather conditions, in the massive tides of north Brittany, where tides of 10 to 15m need care. I currently retrieve by hand, but a windlass would make sense. I'm thinking of one that can handle rope and chain, with either 10m battery leads or a dedicated battery. I wouldn't risk using this over inshore rock, except in an emergency, as it can't be easily tripped and trusted. I use a separate fishing anchor, a Bruce clone, with a short length of chain, and 110m of 12mm 3-plait nylon rope, which all fits in a mobile bin, with an Alderney ring setup, for fishing depths up to 100'deep, in calm conditions up to a Force 4/5. It breaks out in more, and I wouldn't sleep comfortably if it was in use overnight. From a safety point of view, I keep my main and fishing anchors separate. I also carry a 15kg Bruce as a kedge, or emergency anchor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve S Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 You could fit a windlass Mike. Using one can take a fair bit of power from the battery so you should have the engine running to recharge. I would suggest a separate battery fitted near the windlass to avoid issues with your current setup. Also the cables need not be so heavy duty then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Fox Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 Wonder if a cranking battery or a leisure battery? Perhaps the former? Guess running the engine keeps the voltage high for the windlass to have optimum voltage. So, the alternator would have to charge 4 batteries rather than 3 (1 starter, 2 domestics). Wonder if it would need upgrading. It might be safest on the "starter" circuit, so it's not drained running domestics, but then might reduce cranking revs (which I really need in winter). Sounds increasingly complex Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve S Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 Upgrading the alternator: maybe depends how meaty it is already, For battery type something of a cross between starter and domestic would be idea, otherwise go for a domestic type the absolute current is more in the 80amp range than the 600amp or so a starter motor can take so within range of a domestic consumption. Charging 3 different battery banks is somewhat complex but quite common, some changes could be required (more expense) to your existing setup. If you want to take this further Mike i'll be happy to have a chat with you about it, I do have some experience in this area. Stuie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 A "traction" battery is the hybrid, can be drained and also has high cracking performance. I have one on JoJo for all needs. It runs bait pump all day with VHF, plotters x2 and music. Best of both, if that is what is required - often used in Golf carts for lazy golfers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve S Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 You are cracking up with all the music Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 Haha! Damn phones! Cranking up the music and engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
great white Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 interesting that several boats use heavier anchors but shorter same diameter chain for deep water. when we upgrade the size of anchor we upgrade the chain size as well. otherwise the holding is affected and the anchor could be heavier than the chain, which prevents it staying in the Alderney ring. Obviously that can only be done when using an Alderney ring, using a windlass the chain has to be calibrated to the gypsy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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