Newboy Posted March 20, 2005 Report Posted March 20, 2005 Still a bit unsure about holding the male part in my hand though ) Come on Paul, don't be shy, I'm sure we do it all the time...... Quote
Manic Moore Posted March 20, 2005 Report Posted March 20, 2005 Certainly didn't bother you while you were holding my boat!! Quote
Maverick Martin Posted March 20, 2005 Report Posted March 20, 2005 Bad news Moved Maverick on sat to get to the side of the boat next to the fence and heard this terrible rumbling noise, sounded like bearings graunching if thats even a word. Sunday morning up and got the jack out lifted the boat up removed the wheel and tried to undo the retaining nut and it wasn't having any of it. Wacked the nut with a hammer to try and break the rusted seal, no joy, wacked the spanner, no joy, jumped up and down on the socket lever, no joy. Threw me toys outa the pram and walked away Returned later with a blow torch and heated up the nut and shaft, and it moved. Removed the wheel drum, removed the biggest circlip I have ever seen, fitted the retaining nut into a socket put it on the sealed for life bearing (LOL) and wacked it several times with a lump hammer and eventually it came away. Inspected the offending bearing and found that at least one bearing had broke in two. Off to upton tommorrow to get four new bearings. What upset me more than anything was last year I paid good money for eagle trailers to service my trailer. His breif was whatever he found doubtfull replace, especially the bearings. These bearing were obviously not replaced, well pitted, broke and grease less. Checked his invoice tonight and it says he replaced two bearing, which two, my trailer is a 4 wheel jobby surely he should have replaced all four! needless to say I shan't be entrusting any work to that guy again. Glad you saved money by buying brake shoes from him Bob but in my view he really doesn't deserve to be promoted on this forum. Martin Quote
Seamouse Posted March 21, 2005 Report Posted March 21, 2005 Bob, are the brake pads that indespension use just a set of pads from say a mini or an A40...something like that? Hi folks, With respect to the brake liners coming away from the shoes, I've had that on a Rollercoaster 1 trailer and similarly cooked a perfectly good bearing. Indespension blamed it on launching while the brakes are still hot from the road, sudden cooling cracks the adhesive. Nonsense, it takes me a good 20 minutes to get ready to launch. Just poor quality goods from Indespension, I'm afraid. With respect to finding an automotive direct alternative, that's unlikely. One of the shoes has a spring-loaded section that I'm told is to allow the rig to be reversed even if the braking system has been engaged. Otherwise, stop halfway down a steep hill and there's no way you could back up. They also warned me that the system will allow the brakes to suddenly release if you park your rig nose-up on a steep hill. Exactly what I'd been doing for two weeks at the top of a campsite Steve Quote
Bob F Posted March 21, 2005 Author Report Posted March 21, 2005 Ouch...sorry to hear that Martin. It's sad when you can't rely on people to do a proper job. Having said that, my bearing went after only checking it 6 mths ago, and the other bearing was completely ok. I wonder if he replaced the whole of the bearing. Lookfar, yes I've heard about dipping the brakes in water just after towing, and had the same thought as you. Yes, the spring on the brake blocks is the auto reverse feature. BF Quote
Coddy Posted July 23, 2005 Report Posted July 23, 2005 Rang Indespension for prices of various bit for my Rollercoaster 1 trailer (year 2001 model). List is as follows for future reference: Wheel Bearing kit (p/n ISHU3) Quote
Afishionado Posted July 23, 2005 Report Posted July 23, 2005 Quote from earlier post ..... recommended is nearer 70/80kgs. You've got to be kidding ! 170lb downweight on the tow hitch!! Could you mean 70 to 80lb? Mind you I am told in several authorities journals (caravan club) that the ideal down weight at the hitch is 50lb. Mad Mike Quote
Coddy Posted July 23, 2005 Report Posted July 23, 2005 Quote from earlier post ..... recommended is nearer 70/80kgs. You've got to be kidding ! 170lb downweight on the tow hitch!! Could you mean 70 to 80lb? Mind you I am told in several authorities journals (caravan club) that the ideal down weight at the hitch is 50lb. Mad Mike Hi Mike Just looked in the Indespention catalogue Recomends nose weight when the trailer is level between 50 - 100kgs Definetly Kilo's or 110 - 220lbs If too light on the nose you will setup the dreaded swinging motion Coddy Quote
Newboy Posted July 23, 2005 Report Posted July 23, 2005 Coddy is right, it's got to be around 70kg. Some car will hitch upto and over the 100kg mark. Quote
Paul D Posted July 23, 2005 Report Posted July 23, 2005 Mike, Found this on the net re: hitch weight :- It is recommended by Caravanning organisations for maximum towing stability the noseweight be about 7% of the MAM of the caravan, subject to this not exceeding the towbar maximum noseweight....... This information will be on a plate attached to the towbar and will vary from vehicle type to vehicle type. For older Series vehicles the generally accepted safe nose weight is 75kg although this is not defined in any manufacturer Quote
Newboy Posted July 23, 2005 Report Posted July 23, 2005 I seem to read somewhere, if the hitch is too heavy (back end light) the trailer snakes when accelerate (car overwhelming the trailer). If hitch too light (back end heavy) trailer snakes when decelerate (trailer trying to overtake the car). Quote
Wedger Posted July 24, 2005 Report Posted July 24, 2005 Tow chaps, I may have access to a weighbridge (at a quiet time of day) if anyone has trouble working things out. Just get in touch and I'll fix it. If there's a few of you, perhaps the Trailer Commodore would like to arrange a 'dry trail away'. Wedger Quote
Paul J Posted July 24, 2005 Report Posted July 24, 2005 My Trailer is nose heavy mostly because it's too big for the boat and i had to move the Winch post back so the back of the boat overt hangs slightly. It is still not heavy enough at the back so im thinking of moving the axle forward as it's adjustable. Any advise on this? Paul J Quote
Maverick Martin Posted July 24, 2005 Report Posted July 24, 2005 Hi pj Not a problem moving your axle they are usually just U-bolted into position. Firstly mark with a marker pen where your existing axle postition is on both sides of the frame. You can then move the axle in the comfort of knowing your starting position. This will allow you to relocate it if necessary and also aid in keeping everything in allingnment, assuming its set up squarely now that is. Try a little at a time say 50-70mm as a little can make a big difference in the balance of things. Martin Quote
Wedger Posted July 24, 2005 Report Posted July 24, 2005 You may have to consider a change in length of your main brake cable on some systems. Wedge Quote
Adam F Posted July 24, 2005 Report Posted July 24, 2005 Best way to check nose weight - take a set of bathroom scales and sit the jockey wheel on them. I havent yet tried this as we dont have any scales in the house - but I roughly work on the premise that I can only just lift the front end of my trailer so that must put it about 75kg. Quote
Paul D Posted July 24, 2005 Report Posted July 24, 2005 re: weighbridge, I would be most interested in weighing my trailer + boat, since I would be interested if it really falls within 750 KG limit for unbraked. Quote
Adam F Posted February 1, 2006 Report Posted February 1, 2006 Just re-reading this old thread - my uncle just called me to see what we pay for a set of trailer wheel bearings as he has just replaced a set for a customer and wanted to know the going rate.... ....anyway - if anyone needs any replacement bearings - Henderson Bearings, Crow Arch Lane, Ringwood. He has just replaced a set for Quote
Sinbad Posted May 31, 2010 Report Posted May 31, 2010 This year, 2010, also replaced all the bearings at Henderson Bearings, in Ringwood. I took the race along, and the first thing the guy said was "where's the rest of it" - meaning the cups that are driven into the hub. He confirmed what this thread says - its false economy to replace just the race - I'm sure this is what 90% of the trailer shops do to save time - indeed when I went along to Ambrow trailers in barrack road - all they offered me was half a bearing!! Anyway, from some pretty rusty parts which you couldnt read the numbers he measured the race and cups diameter, then just went and got some from the shelf. These were bradley 250mm hubs, and they fitted perfectly. I now know the bearing numbers to quote if ever I need to check prices again. Paul Quote
charlieannear Posted May 31, 2010 Report Posted May 31, 2010 Also Ashley Power and Bearings, Ashley Road, Poole, near where the club meets. Quote
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