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Near Miss.


jack
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Mind you - retrieving the anchor using the Alderney method in Burnham was not such a clever idea.

 

There is say 10 ft of water, so steamed around to pull the anchor up and the buoy slid down the rope and evidently imbedded itself in the mud.

Problem then is you dont know where it is !

 

Our "buddy boat" at the time told us - "meant to tell you not to do that smile.gif"

 

 

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[QUOMike,

 

im interested in this as i have no room ahead of the roller to fit a restaining bar.

 

Nor me Paul. also my overactive brain has been rehearsing moves,leaving me with the following doubts/queeries.

1. the strap will have to be above and over the roller.

2.Any fitted restraining strap would need to be high enough to allow the anchor stock to pass partially through it.when stored.

3. If it stands 2 or 3" proud . When you move foreward to recover the anchor, the warp will take the strain toward the stern.The warp will jump out of the roller [as it did before,causing damage to the wings ] and then all the strain will be pulling on one side of the strap,I feel the twisting force will damage the whole roller assembly and its support pillar,as it was never designed for this angle of strain. ph34r.gif oooerrr..jack

post-13-1138271917.jpg

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Forgive me if I am wrong but isn't it easier to buy a drop nose pin for the bow roller.

 

Just ensure you fit a short lanyard to it so when you drop it it is not lost into the sea.

 

Not sure what a Drop nose pin is? look here Drop Nose Pin

 

Most bow rollers have a hole already for one of these, just measure the size of hole and width across the roller bracket and obtain the correct size pin.

 

Coddy

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Forgive me if I am wrong but isn't it easier to buy a drop nose pin for the bow roller.

 

Just ensure you fit a short lanyard to it so when you drop it it is not lost into the sea.

 

Not sure what a Drop nose pin is? look here Drop Nose Pin

 

Most bow rollers have a hole already for one of these, just measure the size of hole and width across the roller bracket and obtain the correct size pin.

 

Coddy

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Yes your right if there is room for it but a lot of modern bow rollers do not have high enough cheeks.

 

Mad Mike

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You've got me there,Coddy,I see the pin and the lists,but it could be Chinese.What is the pin for,and what does it do ?. Yes I know I'm thick,but better to ask than pretend that I know... dry.gif jack

The roller is within two cheeks, the cheeks on some bow rollers are higher than the diameter of the roller by 2 inches or more. And some even have a hole through each cheek on this higher portion as well. It is through these paralel holes that a pin can be fitted thus capturing the anchor rope within the bow roller.

The 'drop nose' bit is just a little counterweighted bit of metal that drops down to form a T with the pin so as to stop it sliding back out.

 

Coddy is sugesting that you use one of these even to the extent of drilling the holes needed if your bow roller does not have them.

 

Mad Mike

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"The Pin". sounds the way to go.Andy is sure that there is not much height to the plates at either side of the roller,but if need be,we will replace the roller altogether,providing the Arvor has enough room under the roller to work with fresh bolts.We shall see. in the meantime many thanks to all our readers for thier help; advice ;support; and humour....jack

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Sounds a good plan Jack - if it were me I think I would replace it - from memory it is just plate SS?

 

If you go for a nice long forged jobbie - 1.) it will be alot tougher and 2.) If you get it right you could have the anchor self stowing on the roller? Then no need to replace the pin.

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