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A great deal of useful chat re anchor choice and technique in the HELP section. It would be useful to have some comment on setting a trip appropriately. I've seen everything from baler twine to cable ties, shackled direct and old steel trace huh.gif .

 

Personally I use a piece of braided cord and replace it every few trips smile.gif .

 

But, what is the correct way unsure.gif ?

 

Wedge

 

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Andy and I. [the clubs previous anchor/rope/chain losing specialists ] have settled into a satisfactory and so far successful routine.We use 2 plastic ties [9" white ones]. If you tug at them with lashings of power when they are jammed in,they will break.Under all other circumstances encountered so far,they hold well...jack

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A great deal of useful chat re anchor choice and technique in the HELP section. It would be useful to have some comment on setting a trip appropriately. I've seen everything from baler twine to cable ties, shackled direct and old steel trace huh.gif .

 

Personally I use a piece of braided cord and replace it every few trips smile.gif .

 

But, what is the correct way unsure.gif ?

 

Wedge

Trevor, there is no correct way biggrin.gif There are a multitude of answers each given on someones personal experiance.

One of the factors and perhaps the most important one, is the weight and power of the boat using the tripping anchor. I see someone has sugested 2 X 9" cable ties. Splendid on a fairy solid powerfull boat but almost unbreakable with a 16ft day boat. Having a tripping anchor is going to be a waste of time if one makes the weak link too strong for ones boat.

 

In an ideal world I supose one would try anchoring with a light trip and work ones way up to finding one that brakes out with applied force but doesn't pop out on every retrieve. However like you, I have found, that cheap poly twine works fine and is less costly than cable ties. I have been using it for 40 years or so, so I guess it will do for me . From my point of view you are doing it the correct way.

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Same as Bob.

 

Trev - I would suggest the same as Jack and Andy - Otter is a pretty heavy and powerful beast - she should have no problem snapping to ties. I find ties are neater and more importantly quicker to chnage and replace - cheap too if you pick them up at the right places - i.e -not B&Q!!

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But if the blades are stuck the anchor line will start pulling on the end where the tie wraps are. The tie wraps eventually snap and the anochor has tripped allowing the anchor blades to be pulled out backwards.

 

The anchor bouy (not shown) will slide down the anchor line as you keep motoring forward, and will eventually run over the chain and stop at the anchor. Keep motoring forward and the bouy will bring the anchor to the surface. You can usually feel the anchor line rattling as it passes over the chain. This is your signal that the anchor is at the surface.

 

You then throttle back and do a slow about turn and motor slowly back towards the bouy whilst your crew starts pulling in the slack anchor rope.

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Reg,

Entirely a matter for the skipper, but I consider a pull from the stern to be potentially dangerous.

There's been a few threads on this one but if you search back I referred to an event over St Albans ledge where an old friend almost lost his boat pulling from a stern cleat.

Even a trip set anchor can lead to trouble on snaggy ground.

T

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Reg

 

If you have a stern cleat that stands proud of the gunnel then it is fine to just lift the taught anchor rope over it to hold the rope clear of the prop, but never tie off to it just in case the anchor is stuck completely. If it is stuck the boat will swing round stern to the tide and potentially pull the transom under.

If t is just lifted over the cleat then it can be simply lifted off again if it is stuck.

 

Just my humble opinion.

 

Tom

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and an excellent one too Mudhopper.............

 

do not be temptet to even take a turn around that stern cleat - just lead the warp over it so that you know where it is and can steam confidently forwards to break out the trip etc

 

As Adam has already said many of these techniques will not be suitable for the smallest boats - in this one for example if the anchor is really stuck the downward pressure that could be bought to bear on the rear quarter could be an issue and care must be taken.

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suspect you will have the oportunity to substitute

 

flattie fanatic

 

brill boy

 

or

 

dogs pollacks

 

if you perform over the comming week.......................otherwise it's going to be

 

mudhopper for a fair bit I suspect rolleyes.gif

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suspect you will have the oportunity to substitute

 

flattie fanatic

 

brill boy

 

or

 

dogs pollacks

 

if you perform over the comming week.......................otherwise it's going to be

 

mudhopper for a fair bit I suspect    rolleyes.gif

Oh Duncan

 

I am sure I will have the opportunity of introducing you to the delights of a Wicked Vimto over next week. A delicious, "barely" alcoholic drink first introduced to me on the island last Summer.

 

I cannot guarantee it will leave you feeling fresh as a daisy the following morning, but it will leave me with better odds on beating you to the turbot.

 

Tom

 

PS: How do these threads manage to change direction quite so rapidly?

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