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To Coat, Or Not To Coat........


Swainiac
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Mark nipped round the other day, and we decided to make up a couple of bait/filleting boards for Nipper. I had some marine grade ply in the garage, so used the old lift out seat as a template, cut four sections of ply, obtained a couple of nylon chopping boards, used them as a template to sink into one of the sections of ply, cut out said section, fixed the top and bottom ply together, dropped the chopping board into the snug space, fixed, finshed with a bead of silicone around the internal edging, then Mark checked for fitting into the seat space, at the back of the boat.

 

Question is, is it best to finish the timber with a preparatory yaght.........(how do you spell it!!) varnish, or simply seal with an oil??

 

Cheers, Rich

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'YACHT'

 

I wouldnt bother with either if it is mearly a cutting board - it will become kanckered quickly whatever you do - you have MG ply, so dont worry.

 

If you are wanting to be a tart - seal it with oil to further impregnate the ply's and then give several thin coats of yachy varnish - allowing it to dry hard after each coat (or youll end up with a soggy mess!)

 

BW's cutting board is impregnated with oil - from squid and mackeral!!! tongue.gif

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If you want to do it the Scandinavian way (steady chaps! biggrin.gif )

 

Melt some candle wax and pour it over the wood rubbing it in hard with wire wool particularly the end grain. When set scrape the excess off with a flat edge. Then treat several times with boiled linseed oil rubbing it in well with a rough cloth.

 

Mad Mike

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great idea - well presented.

 

personaly I would have sealed the ply with many coats off soething really tough like floor sealer then added the cutting section.

 

overall 9 1/2 / 10! rolleyes.gif

 

I would have thought you would get a good few years out of it done this way

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Rich

 

Don't use yacht varnish cause it is a right pain to maintain. Oil will only last a matter of months in the sun drying out in super quick time.

 

Use either Sadolin or Sikens two coats and thats it.

 

If your not bothered to much about the colour I have some Rosewood Sadolin here that you can have.

 

If you want it I'll bring it to the meeting

 

Martin

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Oil then varnish?? Two contradictory applications, surely? Mike, will beeswax suffice, as I have an abundance of this natural wax from my hives.

 

Rich

Bees wax ........Blimey yes indeed it will do, the candle wax is realy a substitute for bees wax and only used because of the dificulty most folk would have in getting bees wax.

I prefere this method as it uses natural materials that leave no chemical taint in the wood.

By the way the same method is used to season any wooden work top or chopping board with the substitutionof olive oil for the boiled linseed.

 

MAD MIKE

 

PS boiled linseed will 'set' dry. Pure linseed will remain tacky.

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Thanks guys, Ithink I'll try the beeswax, if you want a few nuggets MIke, I'll dig you some out. I take it off the hives with a solar extractor, which melts the wax using reflected rays from the sun, the molten wax pours through a seive, which takes out all the dead bee body parts, then

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Rich the board on the back of GW had raised edges to the front and sides to stop the blood coming inboard

 

the fwd one also had some scallops cut out at the top and egdes rounded off to act as rod rests that proved very usefull to hold the rod while baiting up

 

the aft end was left flat and pertruded aft of the D fender so blood and scraps missed the boat on their way overboard

 

I also fitted a bit of timber on the top with a slot to hold the knives

 

 

To prevent the whole thing soaking up blood it was varnished with several coats.

only the cutting part needed revarnishing every year and It was onboard for years

you may see the details in this snap

 

charlie

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Charlie, I remeberred the cutting area on GW, and thought that the idea of a raised lip/edge was a good one, so adopted it for Nipper. The lift out design will allow the board to be dunked into the sea periodically, to wash off gunge and guts. I also lile the idea of a sponge on a chord, I do like to keep a clean ship!!

 

Rich

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'clean ship' tends to last on Phaeton until Dave hauls in his first doggy............. sad.gif

 

we use free fitted nylon cutting areas slotted into a varnished ply tray (made from an old dingy centreboard!) - the tray gets sluiced off and the boards a thorough scrubbing.

 

downside is it makes a crap filleting table because of the raised edges so we will be carrying a seperate board for that (apparantly and if Dave remembers it) in the future.............

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Alternative material that I used was surplus UPVC window sill section with matching 1/4 round beading for lip. No surface treatment required and after 2 seasons still looks like new, except for a few cut marks. Worth bin diving outside a double glazing factory for free materials, that's where mine came from.

 

Gordon H

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