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Posted

I am not talking about the hard brittle waxy feeling stuff, but the Polypropylene rope used by crabbers and commercial fishermen. Although it floats it is user friendly and coils down well. Has any one any experience of this rope?

 

The reason I ask is that I can source it @

Posted

Mike

 

Up untill recently I always used potting rope and have never had a problem with the stuff in fact have preffered it to the last lot of nylon that PD got

 

I think you will find that Gundrys are the place to go and they deliver to Poole every Friday. If it is Gundrys you are proposing to use could you forward their details to me as I have lost the info I had on them

 

Martin

 

 

Posted

Mike

 

I use 14mm (I think, perhaps a bit bigger) polystuff.

 

Used for 3yrs so far without any problems. I have spliced an Galvanized Thimble to the end nearest the chain, then fitted a swivel shackle, then to the chain.

 

As I don't have an bow anchor locker on my 165 I store my warp, anchor etc. in a cut down water tub in the back of the boat.

 

The fact the warp floats has saved me on a number of times from getting the rope near the outboard leg when on a slack tide as I can keep an eye on where the rope is and the way the boat is turning. In fact I often pull in the slack warp and stow it back in the tub until the tide starts to run again.

 

Just my thoughts for what's it worth.

 

Coddy

cool.gif

Posted
Guys, be mindfull, 10mm diameter rope is hard work on cold wet hands, it also can lead to tendon problems in palms when worked on a regular basis.

 

Rich

What diameter would you sugest Rich? I mean for ease of handling V's stowability.

 

Mad Mike

 

 

Posted

Mike

 

If you are using the alderney ring method to retrieve your anchor then you will not be hauling anything other than slack line then anchor chain so there shouldn't be an issue with any thickness (within reason)

 

With that said I still think 12mm is a perfect choice for anchoring, thich enough to be reasonably kind to hands yet still managable on the stowing front.

 

Do however have a feel of whatever rope you are buying prior to parting with your money. Some ropes are harder on the hands than others, a nice limp rope will aid stowage and imo is what is required. Most suppliers will send you a sample if they won't then don't buy

 

Martin

Posted

Mike

 

Have to agree that 12mm is the minimum I would go down to, try pulling in a rope in shallow water where you can't use the Aldeerney ring to lift the anchor, and you will soon be glad you got a thicker rope.

 

I would go down to a chandlers and "have a feel" of the differant sizes available. ohmy.gif

 

Coddy

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Posted

Mike,

I got my Anchor Rope from here http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Boatropes

 

I have to admit I paid more than your looking at for potting line but the nylon anchor plait that Barry Edwards stocks is very soft ,coils beautifully and just great to handle and splice.

 

Have a look at the site it might be of use.

Couldn't fault the service

 

Pete

Posted

Mike, its not only about how the rope itself coils, but how the crewman hauling in actually coils the rope. If you take a body width of rope each haul, for me, that is six feet, and as you gp to coil, roll the rope between forefinger and thumb, you are putting the natural "roll" into the body of the rope, but also preventing an abnormal twist in the whole coil, thus reducing the amount of space that the warp takes when stowed.

 

Added kinks and twists take up room, in otherwise small locker spaces, they are also an annoyance when paying out warp when you are anchoring, twists which may hinder retreival and Alderney ring slide. Unatural coils in ropes may also reduce rope life. It is actually one of your most important items of safety equipment on board, and is often overlooked, so in a situation of engine failure and the anchor needs deployment at once, a neat coiled rope will spill out speadilly, reducing time and stress when in a posibly endangering situation.

 

Anal Rich!!!!

Posted

Anal Rich!!!!

 

NO NOT AT ALL!! I too can not stand messy ropes, knots or bends.

 

Mark, my fishing mate has what I call a washing line approach to our for and aft painters, and coils them hand to elbow Ahhhhhggg!! It has taken me a season and a half to get him to coil the damn things properly, that and not taking 63 turns round a cleat to fasten a rope laugh.gif Ex engineering officer in the RN too! laugh.gif

 

It is suprising how many people do not lay a rope with the turn as it was called by the guy who taught me.

 

Mad Mike

Posted

I would get a sample first.

 

I bought my 10mm nylon from Barry Edwards - superb stuff, soft and easily stowed.

I bough my 12mm stuff from Barry Edwards as well and nowhere near as soft ( same that Martin has ).

 

Found Barry good to deal with and can recommend him, but get a sample first.

 

 

 

BTW : I have a whole coil on Neo and would be happy to chop it in half if anyone wants to buy half a coil.

 

 

Posted

Paul

 

Now that your confidence in the boat and the new engine is growing I would not be to keen to get rid of half your anchor warp.

 

If you start to fish the deeper marks you may need more than 110 metres

 

Max recomended scope of 5:1

110 mtres only good for 22 metre depth

Charlie biggrin.gif

Posted
Paul

 

Now that your confidence in the boat and the new engine is growing I would not be to keen to get rid of half your anchor warp.

 

If you start to fish the deeper marks you may need more than 110 metres

 

Max recomended scope of 5:1

110 mtres only good for 22 metre depth

Charlie biggrin.gif

That's a hell of a scope Charlie, 5 to 1! I thought the Wafi's used 3 to 1 for overnighting with no anchor watch.

Or are you saying the ratio is not constant and that the greater the depth over say 60ft the ratio needs to be extended? I find that in 60 ft 3 to 1 is fine.

 

Mad Mike

Posted

Mike,

 

I work on the principle of 3:1 as a min, if rough or bad weather this increases up to 5:1.

 

Also when anchoring a wreck plenty of excess warp is a god send, more room for error allowing for more accuracy.

Posted

I have to admit that anchoring Lepe Buoy area plenty of warp is needed as the ground is compact shingle and a good angle is needed to get the anchor to bite in.

Even then on the weekend we started slipping anchor after a couple of hours before coming to a halt near Gastronaught.

 

Thinking again, I think I will keep all that excess warp for now

Posted
I have to admit that anchoring Lepe Buoy area plenty of warp is needed as the ground is compact shingle and a good angle is needed to get the anchor to bite in.

Even then on the weekend we started slipping anchor after a couple of hours before coming to a halt near Gastronaught.

 

Thinking again, I think I will keep all that excess warp for now

Oh that's just warped thinking Paul! laugh.gif

 

Mad Mike

Posted

Hi Mike

 

I have a feeling that I may regret this but please confirm meaning of wafi's

 

as in

That's a hell of a scope Charlie, 5 to 1! I thought the Wafi's used 3 to 1 for overnighting with no anchor watch.

 

 

For an all chain system that most yachts seem to use 3;1 would be fine

 

but the system we use of a short chain and long rope 5:1 is recomended especially in areas wher the tides are strong and ground is soft or loose [shingle Banks]

 

As Adam says,

best anchor well away from a wreck and lay on a longer warp, than try and anchor close, the anchor bounces out and guess where it finishes up!!! in the wreckage never to be seen again [unless a dive boat is close]

 

GW carried a coil [220m of 12mm nylon] and at times off of anvil Point and St Albans most of it could be out.

 

Back to the start of topic

It is not just about type of rope and feel it also needs to be strong and durable.

The cheap ropes are neither.

 

Nylon can get chaffed and scruffy and will still be strong, the cheaper types would not fair so well.

 

The rope strops on our Club Moorings at PYC are light and extremly strong , but chaff away and melt if rubbed on a chain riser.

Result is an unmanned boat cruising the harbour on wind and tide. sick.gifweep.gif

 

I hope that helps in some way biggrin.gifbiggrin.gif

Charlie

Posted

3 to one should be ok in most situations provided the anchor and chain are up to the job . ive anchored and been on boats anchored all over the channel even in 200+ft and 3 knots of tide we havent needed more than one coil of rope

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