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Deck Wash Installation?


Adam F
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I wanna fit a 'proper' deck wash to OOTB. I am using a Par Max 4 pump which is an inline design so needs a feed.

 

My last one fitted on the transom, but I want this to be a little more stealth - so I presume I fit a skin fitting and then route a hose from this to the pump?

 

But, where do I put the fitting? Under the hull, on the transom?? Also a little nervous about drilling holes under the waterline - do I have any other options?

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Hi Adam

 

A few thoughts from me. blink.gif

 

1/ Fit a thro hull water intake as used by inboard engines, fit a seacock then pipe it to the pump.

 

2/ Thro hull fitting in the transom near drain plug, with filter and again fit a seacock then pipe it to the pump.

 

3/ Use clear 19mm tube through witches hat and cliped over the lower transom into the water, don't for get to use a filter on the end of the pipe. Fit other end of pipe to pump.

 

4/ Instead of using clear tube use 22mm hard plastic tube again over the lower transom edge or through the transom but out of the waterline.

 

Coddy

cool.gif

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The 175 is double skinned so I'd guess any kind of skin fitting is going to have to be a transom job?? Even then, they couldn't put a drain plug in the Pro Angler as Paul reckoned it went through 4 different panels of GRP and he was concerned it'd leak into the sealed underfloor. Since you have a self-draining deck, I'd have thought the neatest route to water would be a flexible pipe through the scuppers?

Final decider, I guess, is whether the pump will pull 'dry'. If it can only run when primed it gets awkward.

 

Steve

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When I saw "proper deckwash" I had envisaged a team of able seamen, kneeling on the teak decks scrubbing away with caustic soda and ashes, while two others man the canvas buckets on ropes, and the first mate stalks the deck with cat o'nine tails at the ready.

 

Was quite disappointed to read about the technology that still escapes me, but will take notes on behalf of Carol and George.....

 

Mike

Edited by Mike Fox
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Adam

 

You need to fit the inlet through the hull and not the transom, reason being as soon as you start moving with a transom fitting no water.

 

You need:

 

Pump, Sea cock, In line Filter, Hose, Sikaflex, stainless jubilee clips, tank connector

 

Once you have water in use hose lock fittings to connect to your tank/hosewash. Waste water from the tank can be via a flexible hose though the scuppers or through a skin fitting

 

Hope that makes sense

 

BTW I have just bought the full works (well ordered) from Pete Trew (Quay West Chandlery) at a very advantageous prices.

 

Martin

 

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Adam,

 

Do it properly as already suggested. If the hull is double skinned or whatever I would have thought that means drilling oversize on the inside and sealing with exoxy resin before redrilling exact. Obviously there are real experts to advise in detail but I would have thought doing it this way you end up with a proper closable live feed for both the deck wash and the livewell. If you cut from inside to the angle of the hull, using the larger up to the hull first then exact through the hull back up from the outside using the same pilot hole you maintain the hull integrety but completely seal the various layers. The hull slope can then be accomadated with a wooden piece epoxied on the inside to tighten up against.

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Hi adam just do this, works for me! all it is is some 15mm stainless pipe up and over the back with a hozelock fitting on the pump end, a bit of hose between fitting and pump, then i used the outlet to a "y" piece, 1 going to the bait tank and the other going to a spiral hose with a gun on the end.

 

if you need some stainless 15mm ive got about 10ft left.

 

Simon L

post-6-1172695288jpg

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I would have thought 15mm would be a bit restricctive for the pump if it is a proper deck wash model. Most produce at least 2 bar pressure minimum and needs the volume of water to be effective. I would suggest 22mm, just think of the volume of water used by a power shower, they can drain a cold water tank in minutes!

Like the idea of s/s pipe however, clever. smile.gif

 

As you are in the trade, so to speak, pipe and fittings should not be problem I would have thought. If it is give me a shout.

 

Coddy

cool.gif

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Hi Adam

 

There are many clever options

 

Two points to remember

 

1 Martin is right that a through transom pick up would not work underway as it would be dry at speed, pump would burn out and/or bait dies

 

2. any skin fitting underwater should be metal and be fitted with a shut off valve in case a pipe goes

 

Have you any acces to the inside of the main hull, if so that may be where to fit the skinfitting.

 

Charlie

 

 

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I would have thought 15mm would be a bit restricctive for the pump if it is a proper deck wash model. Most produce at least 2 bar pressure minimum and needs the volume of water to be effective. I would suggest 22mm, just think of the volume of water used by a power shower, they can drain a cold water tank in minutes!

Like the idea of s/s pipe however, clever. smile.gif

 

As you are in the trade, so to speak, pipe and fittings should not be problem I would have thought. If it is give me a shout.

 

Coddy

cool.gif

The pump that is fitted is a flo-jet (9bar) and with the boat flying at 40mph i can still get a fifty foot jet of water out of the nozzle. Its a self priming type that sucks as good as it blows. Available from alanandjoe on ebay at about

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Thanks for the ideas chaps.

 

Simon - I like the look of your installation and will give you a call to discuss further.

 

Others - also thanks. I do have access via the bilge hatch to the rear of the underside, so could route a skin fitting here?

 

 

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Hi Adam!

 

I'm on the same tack, thinking of a multi purpose use of the pump - ie washing the decks as well as end of run engine flush - so would have the stainless part in the brine, with a means to connect the suction pipe onto a flexible and into a portable drum.

 

using some chemical engineering (plumbing) if you used a pitot tube arrangement that is - the open end of pipe facing the flow, or even the pipe sidewall cut away on the face exposed to the water flow, then this would solve any risk of getting suction at the end of the pipe when whizzing along. Its a bit like the profile of a hypodermic syringe, if thats something more recognisable to most blink.gifblink.gif

 

 

Any suggestions on flowrate and pressure required ?

 

Regards

 

Paul

Edited by Sinbad
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the pump installation under the seat, and kept dry, the pump is fitted with an inlet strainer which un-clips for cleaning. the pump outlet then goes on to a "y" piece mounted in the side of the seat (next picture) which feeds the spiral hose and gun. the pump power comes from the dash switches and self regulates to off when no flow is required.

 

sorry about the fuel-flow sensor in the foreground.

post-6-1173643526jpg

Edited by britboard
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this in my "HUGE" bait tank which is fitted with a recirculating pump and an overflow so that i can fit a timed 12v solenoid to the bait tank water inlet in the future in order to refresh the water without having to think about it.

 

All of the hose fittings have auto blocking devices built-in so that if a hose fitting ever came off by accident then boat couldn't fill up un-noticed

 

Simon L

post-6-1173643082jpg

Edited by britboard
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Right, I have my pump - a 40PSI 20l/min jobbie.

 

I'm going for a 50/50 solution, a transom pick-up, but with the tubing running through the transom, not over it - more stealth cool.gif

 

My last 2 Q's, similar Sinbad's is where to source the self coiling hose? B&Q sell them, but they are 100' in length!!

 

Finally, how do I split the flow off to a live bait tank AND control the flow, I dont want 40 PSI into my macky!! rolleyes.gif

Edited by Adam F
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