Help Please

[great white]

Hi all

 

My brothers dive club near Bristol are experiancing a lot of bearing failures on their trailers. they are all fitted with the bearing saver kits but they still seem to fail quite regularly,

 

I am sure many Members will have experianced problems but if anyone has found a good solution and can offer advice it would be appreciated

 

Thanks

Charlie

[Gazza]

I think regular servicing is the key here with plenty of fresh marine grease packed into the bearings.

 

I personally don`t use the so called bearing savers prefering to take the dust cap off at more regular intervals, also using white grease on most of the moving parts inside the drum be careful not to get this onto the face of the brake shoes.

 

Gary

[Wedger]

I always found the brakes to be the downfall.

 

I religiously flushed but it only takes one sticky brake on the outrun after standing around for a week or two. This cooks the grease out ready for a dip in the brine letting salt into the bearings. Here starts the rot. The bearings will have limited life from here on but could even go the next time out if not spotted. Brake maintenance is as crucial as the bearings themselves. My escape was to simply take the brakes out........I never lost the bearings again.

 

I would not however, advise this of course. I was lucky enough to be dragging a modest boat just on the un-braked trailer limit and towing with a 2 ton vehicle.

 

The moral here is

[Paul D]

What about "sealed for life" bearings ? - I have these on my Bramber and there is nothing to apply grease to -

Wonder how long the life will be ???

 

[Wedger]

Paul,,

Same thing applies.

 

They're great if you can keep them stable and of course, nothing to grease..... but again if your hub heats up because your brakes are sticking the seals will fail as it cooks and the water will creep in on the next dip. You can imagine a hot hub condensing all that salt onto the bearings.

 

IMHO this is more likely with the 'sealed for life' ones as you don't really expect grease trouble.

 

T

[Coddy]

Having a Inderspention Roller Coaster 3 trailer with the Warrior I have only suffered brake problems. This trailer has bearing savers as standard.

 

The biggest problems I had was using Baiter slip as I needed to get water well over the bearing level on the trailer to launch and recover the boat.

 

The salt water made the brake shoes swell and come away from the metal shoe and jam in the hub!

 

I then used Christchurch slip and ensured that the trailer did not get reversed so the water level was always below the brake drums. My only problem so far this year is having to replace the brake cables as one had seized in its sleve and the other was sticking.

I regulary pump fresh grease into the hubs to make sure there is always positive pressure in the bearing housing.

 

Attached is a link on how one member on another forum tried to overcome the same problems. http://www.worldseafishing.com/forum...=wheel+bearing it also shws a home made flushing arrangement.

 

Regards

 

Coddy

 

Forgot to add that most pre-sealed, non adjustable bearings need to be pressed into the hub with a heavy duty press and it gets exspensive compaired to the taper versions.

Edited October 9, 2007 by Coddy

[Wedger]

Yes!!!!!!!!!

 

Had to beat a set of those out in an emergency this year on the big trailer

 

very messy and time consuming.

 

lost half a tide and only managed 10 bass to nine pounds! in the tide left !......

 

 

Heart braking

 

 

[great white]

Thanks Guys

 

I will pass these on to my brother Martin

 

Charlie

[gaffa]

Guys,

Having read all these issues re brakes overheating and affecting bearings etc leads me to wonder whether someone does a disc brake conversion for a trailer.

I'm sure they would be far more resilient than drum style.

 

Anyone have any info ?

 

PeteG

 

I must state I don't trail myself so if the suggestion has any pitfalls please treat me gently for my ignorance.

[alun j.]

Having read these posts, I'm glad I am 'Unbraked' and 'Sealed' !!

 

I run \ push mine in well over the axle and never touch anything save a squirt with the hose on return........... no maintenance, no trouble ,,,,,,,,for years.......of frequent use!!

 

Alun.

[Coddy]

Re: Disc brakes on trailers

 

Rapied Trailers now have disc brakes fitted as standard, SeaMouse, a member on this forum, has one of these trailers supplied with his new Warrior boat. I think they are based in Romsey, Hants.

 

I don't know of anyone who does a conversion, I am sure if someone came up with such a conversion it would be a winner.

 

Coddy

[Seamouse]

Guys,

Having read all these issues re brakes overheating and affecting bearings etc leads me to wonder whether someone does a disc brake conversion for a trailer.

I'm sure they would be far more resilient than drum style.

 

Anyone have any info ?

Pete,

The disc option on the Rapide trailer is an extra 500 quid and I'd guess you could retro-fit it to a Rapide, quite possibly any other make. I've only had it nine months so not yet in a position to comment on failure rates. Two points I'd make straight away though.

 

Actuation is mechanical, not hydraulic, so there is a spring-loaded Z lever with multiple pivot points that could potentially seize. I've got the whole assembly slathered with waterproof grease but I can see trouble ahead there

 

The hub doesn't take a bearing saver, not sure why not, I guess I should ask Rapide. That's a seriously retrograde step.

 

Last run out, I was getting some odd gratings and rumblings transmitted through the tow hitch on slow speed braking that I need to check out. I think it is a dry hydraulic ram (someone has been lax about using the grease points )

but if not, then it could be brake adjustment.

 

Steve

[Manic Moore]

 

Hi Charlie

 

I replaced the bearings in my trailer over a year ago and serviced them on Saturday and did not have to even change the grease. I have bearing savers and I think the secret is

 

1. Go to a bearing supplier and buy quality bearings instaed of the chineese rubbish that will only last bearly 12 months

 

2. Buy quality high temperature, waterproof or water resistant grease. The temperature proofing stops the grease boiling when they get hot and so less tendancy to wash out

 

2. then spend plenty of time rubbing the gease into the bearings before assembling them. You will be surprised at how much they take. Also fill the hubs before assembly, there are lots of areas to fill.

 

3. Don't over tighten the castle nut I normally nip them up with a pair of moul grips until I can't feel any slack top and bottom then turn the nut back to put in the split pin.

 

3. As you asemble the bearings into the hub make sure thet you keep the grease going in. When I fit the savers I pre assemble them then pack them out with gease (surpris surprise ) so when I hammer them into the hubs the gease is forced out through the small pin hole under the rubber cap.

 

I am sure there will be a technical version out there but mine have been in over a year, has been used 3 or 4 times a month, always dunked in well pass the hubs, and Saturdays inspection shows the grease was as good as new and I could not get any more in and I guess the quality of bearings and grease makes a difference

 

Hope this helps

 

Regards

 

 

Gordon

 

 

 

[Fugazi]

There is no easy way to keeping bearings and brakes in A1 condition except a monthly (without fail) complete strip down of bearings and brakes. Wash out all the emulsified grease and re-pack with waterproof high temp grease. I've managed to do this since new and the bearings and brakes are still in excellent condition after 3 seasons use. Unfortunately it's a real chore, but by doing the job regularly means it takes only one hour a month to do both sides. The only problem so far has been a sticking brake caused by a seized cable earlier this year so I'm now going to be removing and re-oiling them every 6 months as well.

 

Gordon H

 

[plaicemat]

So, can anyone recommend a good waterproof, high temperature grease?

 

Terry.

[great white]

Thanks for all the tips lads

 

I have asked Martin to follow this link which I am sure he is doing and passing on all the good tips

 

Charlie

[Gazza]

Terry,

i use a grease called Fuchs (be careful how you say this one) "Renolit aqua 2" from Ashley power Parkstone.

 

waterproof and temp range -30c--+100c also cartridge form and not that messy tub stuff

 

I have had no problem with this one but i do tend to "lube-up" alot

 

Gary

 

 

[toerag]

OK - so I've no experience of trailering, but from reading the thread it seems that the biggest problem is dunking hot hubs/bearings in seawater - so my suggestion would be to cool the hub down when you arrive at slip if you have time before launching.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

...like anyone will do this, we're always late to arrive at the harbour aren't we!!

[Coddy]

The only reason you need to let the hubs/brakes cool is due to the cold water contracting the metal and water will be drawn in through the seals if there is insuffcient grease.

 

As you say, how many of us have that sort of time available when you want to get out and fish!

 

Coddy

[Member Removed]

So, can anyone recommend a good waterproof, high temperature grease?

 

Terry.

Castrol Pyroplex Blue is superb for wheel bearings, available in tubes as well.

Some good advice on here, the brakes do generate quite a bit of heat even when all is well, I used my trailer while waiting for shoes to arrive without brakes and the hubs were stone cold after an hours drive, so yes binding brake problems I can see being the start of wheel bearing troubles! well worth checking before the launch.

Sean,