Leaderboard

I’m a bit late getting to this one but I will add my experience it it helps. On my 23’ Grady White, I had a wire strop made by a yacht rigger using stainless cable that would normally be for mast stays. This was heavy duty, with a loop crimped at each end, and made slightly longer than the anchor and looked very neat. One loop was shackled to the hole at the rear or the anchor, and the other loop was secured to the swivel which connected to the chain/rope rode. The front loop was then tied to the front of the anchor so that the strop was slack and the weight was on the tied connection. like Steve, I did not use cable ties as they degrade over time and fail when you are not expecting it - I used thin binding chord and added extra turns until I felt it was right. The bottom line was that when I needed to, I could break out the anchor connection using the weight and power of the boat, but after 10 years it never failed in normal service, broke out when required, the strop was as good as new, and I never lost an anchor. In fact it worked so well that I would often anchor in known rocky areas with confidence that I would get my gear back. Stay safe everyone. Ian

Would it not be possible to get someone to make a stainless steel guide to attach to your roller housing to direct the course of the anchor? Terry.

Thanks for your comments everyone, all good advice. My concern is still the anchor hitting the bow roller, rather than it riding up over it following the chain. If it doesn’t work on my boat someone will be most welcome to try on there’s, that is when we can🙁 Hope to see you all soon, stay safe.