charlieannear

OK, phase one complete, all the bits assembled, just need to attach them to the transom... The instructions suggest zinc anodes are required, but I'm guessing that as they are not attched to the electrical system and are mounted on a GRP boat which is trailered (not kept moored) they're not really required? C.

I'll bear all this in mind when I venture outside on Saturday with my box of shiney metal bits, my tools and Adam's diagram!

Trailer reassembled and it turns out that all of the parts are available from Indespension, which means that now I know what to ask for, I should be able to get the parts a bit cheaper by shopping around next time. In fact Indespension price matched a cheaper source that I found for the brake shoes, Ashley Power found me some new bearings and Poole Tyres sorted me out for rubber. I invested in a new winch strap and breakaway cable while I was at it- now to get using the thing! C.

I remembered that I worked at a Univeristy with an Engineering Dept, so how's about that for imagination!

BBC Version C.

The Currant Bun C.

Hi Coddy Kam's got a pair of rod holders and possibly an anchor stopper with my name on if you're passing! C.

Lumpsucker There's no need for name calling Tom!

BBC News C.

Hi All In the past I've always used the "get a socket of the same size and hammer them in" method, however, the bearings on my trailer are much bigger than that method allows for. Not sure my oven will heat my drums (they are big too!) enough to allow dropping the new cups in even if I put the cups in the freezer first. So, does anyone know a friendly workshop with a press?

Feel like I'm being a bit told off as one of those new members who hasn't entered a comp! So here's my take on the situation, which is a bit like Tom's really. Unfortunately it's a combination of weather, work and other responsilbilities. As we all know the weather was crap for a long period at the start of the year. For me that meant I had a lot of jobs backing up- not least of all sorting out my restoration project! This means that when the weather has been OK I have been boat restoring (there's always more to do than you first think) or doing general DIY, or storing up some Brownie points (I have a decent number in the account now) Plus I'm a novice fisher (with a capital N. And a capital OVICE for that matter ) So I haven't offered myself to accompany anyone else on a comp day for fear of getting in the way. I do really intend to get out more in the future, once the boat is finished, I've got some tackle and half a clue what to do with it, and the sea is really, really flat! I manage to make it to the club meetings though!

Cheers Mike, I don't want to hold you up so I'll measure up a couple of bits of card... (or just send for some Smart Tabs? ) The sig is a song lyric... I'm not paranoid, I just tend to do my research and plan things out for a while before leaping in and drilling holes all over the place!

My Shetland doesn't have quite such an extensive list of features as a new one off the shelf, but it's still going to be heavy and I for one feel much safer with it on a braked trailer. As such, I now have the cables, the bearings should arrive on Wednesday and van tyres from Poole tyres to be collected tomorrow. Marvellous. I've got an Audi A4 2 litre TDI, so it should cope. 4 whopping disc brakes and loads of electronics- I don't intend to become a statistic thanks. Thanks for all your input as usual guys- this turned into quite a popular thread!

Unfortunately Mike, I am one of the great unwashed who has to go to work..

Exactly why I thought I'd see where Smart Tabs would go (if I were to get some) before screwing the transducer on! Thanks Mike, that could be useful. Anyway, I've paused the transducer mounting at the moment in favour of getting the trailer running! And stopping!

Thanks for the piccy Adam, exactly what I wanted to know, as usual! How big are the plates in the ST1290-60 kit? Very helpful Tom! The orange mark is where I've cleaned the antifoul off to make sure I get a good watertight seal when I screw the transducer on. It might be a dodgy angle and a saggy bag combining to give that impression Tom. Will take another picture later for your perusal.

Found this site which has the best prices I've seen, plus under 'Technical Tips' an explanation of what all those numbers and letters on the tyre mean! 2 new cables on the way home with Diane for the princely sum of

Hmmm, for my Family Four Nauticus have said ST980-40 but shop says ST1290-60 So now I'not sure which would be the right ones. Thinking of what's been said on the trailer thread about the Shetland being heavy I'm starting to lean towards the ST1290-60's, what do you lot think? And where would they go on the shaped hull of a Family Four?

Thanks Brian C.

Re the brakes- I have cleaned them up lubed the working parts and they now work nicely. I do need new cables though as the old ones are well rusty- most likely the cause for the brakes sticking on. Apart from legally requiring brakes on the trailer, as the Shetland is very likely to be over 750kg, the other reason for needing brakes is that if I'm moving the trailer by hand I need the handbrake to be working, as once the Shetland gets moving it's not easy to stop! When I put the boat on the driveway we lowered the trailer down the drive by hand as there isn't really enough turning room (for me at least!) to do it with the car. Four of us weren't enough to stop the trailer on that occsasion (anyone who has seen my drive will understand why! ) Re the tyres- yep, they do seem to be pricey. Bit of an unusual size apprently. Found them cheaper than that on www.blackcircles.com though. Reckon it's safest to get near enough what is on there already. It's a heavy boat and so normal car tyres might not be man enough. But a van tyre like the one the blackcirlces suggests ought to be OK. In short I think my axle is of a different era than the chassis!

Bearings- will pay Ashley Bearings a visit tomorrow Brakes- I went to SMC on Ashley Road and they said I won't get new ones like what I've got. What I have are rusted up but have plenty of meat left on them. So I'll have to clean them up. Tyres- Typically what I have are an unusual size 155/70 R12. Van tyres I think so will have to get hunting.

Panic over, the rusty part of the stub axle is the space beteen the bearing surfaces. So it's just a case of new bearings and brakes... and tyres! C.

Hi All Basically my situation is that although my trailer has a great chassis, I need to replace the following: Bearings, brakes, tyres and the stub axle is pretty heavily pitted. It's bradley Doubledock and I have no idea about part nos etc. Would I be better off buying a new axle complete? C.