duncan

yep - firefox and pbsbac images is a pain!

any suggestions on sourcing the above - anyone got a SH one lying about????? knocked the switch lever off mine a long time ago but as it was so infrequently used I made do. Now the boats in the racking I think it's time to sort it out. With only about 1/8th of an inch of metal rod sticking out it's not really a practical repair either.

indeed - many happy returns

I thought Wedger had already collected it by now!

very nice - sounds like a plan came together!

soon Martin, soon - last weekend's single handed run to C'bourg was encouraging and I hope to be back fishing again soon. but not yet...........

wear and tear in your case m8!

none of my mercury OBs were Saltwater designated - and all were used exclusively in saltwater. these designations arrived in the late 90s with different cowls etc (Mercs) but it's been difficult to see any consistently in the spec differences - at one time they were designed for SS props with slightly heavier gearboxes (but not as much as bigfoots) then there was the issue of anode material

I have just switched Phaeton to stack after 9 years on the pontoon - I'm finally convinced that they can handle things realistically. Can see a whole 'holding pontoon' of PBSBAC boats in Autumn when the weather's good!

have a good time - I may even have P sorted (probably excluding window leaks) by the time you get back!

my grib data is giving some nasty stuff from about 12 miles off, and through the central channel area, but locally it's 10 - 20 knots from the NNW going N looks like the day Mr Bass and Mr Wrasse beat Mr Conger...

Merc 3.0l on an Alpha One drive according to the blog

here's some from last years show (shot from the boat and the sea state wasn't calm!)

agree with Charlie - but would add that I wouldn't be too concerned with getting it back to where it was given that that failed in some way. suspect that you ultimate solution lies in a combination of the initial physical bond with added/improved reinforcement. I am getting a picture from the posts, but look forward to seeing actual images in due course.

I had always been led to believe that the leisure plates themselves were thinner, and that this was why if you hit a leisure battery with maximum draw (such as for cold starting etc) you ran the risk of buckling the plates. Probably another old wives tale and I was guilty of perpetuating it. Agree all the rest completely - which ever battery used it should be charged as soon, and as fully, as possible to maximise it's life cycle.

just to pick up on an earlier point in this post my understanding is that - 1. normal batteries can stand 20% discharge 2. leisure batteries 50% in both cases though, the battery's life cycle starts to get used in the period between use and recharge (which is why you should always give any new batteries you have lying around a little trickle every month to avoid any deterioration. this is also why small solar panels can be very useful to battery life on boats that aren't used much. equally deterioration will occur if the above discharge levels are exceeded. again a generalisation, but leisure batteries usually have more thinner plates, and can weigh more per Ah than normal ones, as well as costing more - so the equations can be quite interesting re which and what capacity for small boats. for my money I go to the Silver 'normals' which seem to give the best of both worlds - and a 4 year warranty.

If I didn't already have one (mine is an R having done 70k since I got it new) I would be over Nige. Great vehicles and, of course, you aren't stuck with the high car tax at that age. Mine's towed to the med a few times, Loch Lommond, Brittany and Plymouth. Original exhaust despite many sea water launching's early in it's life. Wife (and now the boys) love driving it.

Nigel One observation about that hull hole - personally I would rather do it myself (as long as I have the right tools) because I'm happy to invest that extra time to get it absolutely right. Most professional fitters will, when working professionally for you, compromise at times because hard experience has shown them that telling the client they spent an extra 2 hours on something and expecting to get paid doesn't work! I have edited my post above as it's a vent not ducting that I have - I was going to fit 3 but went with just 2 in the end (which was fine). I think it's a main vent (directional but not close-able) and you must have one of those in the system.

yep - drilling that hole is a real tough one...... I fitted one (D2) to Phaeton and it really does come down to a combination of planning and the key elements of - how are you going to deal with fuel good electricity supply matching the siting of the unit with the vents, ducting and exhaust things that help include quality hole cutting equipment - if you need one let me know. if I was to do the job again the only thing I would change is siting the main unit where I could get at it more easily for servicing - so far I haven't ... there are (or were) 2 ducting sizes and vents to fit - I have a spare vent lying around for beer money, and I certainly have a pretty complete fuel line assembly somewhere. some of this is in Kent - some in Poole (as ever) mine can get Phaeton up to 70 deg F from -4 outside in under an hour...

we all have our favorite approaches Adam - mine's to take something apart and put it back together (with some bizarre expectation that it will then work OK)...

some movement in the windscreen has deformed the rubbers seals - how do I get it all back into shape? special tool? phone a friend? taking it all apart is another option - but with all the wiring up to the hard top I would like this to be the last option....... I will sort this once and for all - it's almost the last job on the list!

you scaremongerer you............ whilst Toyota's announcement to move away (finally) from their 4.2 straight 6 diesel will eventually impact Yamaha's 420STI (?), and Yanmar's 6LP etc range, there will be plenty of stock for some time to come - esp relative to Yamaha's unit sales. I'm not convinced that Yamaha could have taken on the initial marinisation development of the new Toyota engine given their volumes, whilst Yanmar will have been delighted to have a new generation block to work with.

far from spam Ian - and really useful info for anyone having sender issues

my thoughts too.......

having an older unit (really early LCD) I have looked at many since. don't skimp on the screen - on leisure units now the raydomes are all pretty solid performers, and unless you are mounting it very high (somehow) even the lower powered units will go the your horizon for all but the largest vessels. there are only 2 problems with radar - 1. power hungry that can be an issue when drifting engine off 2. once you have had one you will never head out without one again!