domino

I had one (basking shark) cruise past my boat, about 6'-8' away, in crystal clear water, while drifting just outside The Bar at Salcombe/Kingsbridge estuary a couple of years ago. I realised what is was but it still made the heart beat a little faster having something that big swim by so close. It was a probably 2'-3' longer than my boat(15' - Warrior 150).

21 knots... a man would suffocate if 'e were to go that fast... would suck all the air right out of 'is lungs!!! T'would scare the fish clear away... where's the man with the red flag? . . . . OK, OK.. I'll come quietly...

It's looking doubtful at the moment... forecast is for W force 4 for Thu pm. I think it would be quite a long (12 miles or so) and lumpy ride back! I have never ventured as far east at St Albans Ledge... I see the chart shows overfalls either side, depending on the tide. I would think that with the tide on the ebb and a westerly wind, that it might not be the best place to be crossing in a 15' boat.

No... I live in Witney (nr. Oxford)... I keep the boat at Ferrybridge boatyard.

Adam, How far west do you go? I've got the week of work and intend get out a couple of times... wind permitting! Whilst not actually a 'club boat'... I wouldn't mind a bit of Tope action, depending how far east I have to travel from Weymouth. Cheers, Alan

I think you'll find Adam's boat has the switch fitted already. I was pointing my advice at anyone else who is yet to fit a second battery and those with seperately wired batteries. As I said before... it's the way I prefer it... and it works for me , if others are happy with other set-ups... well that's fine also.

... and in a blind panic, being blown towards the rocks, searching for the correct size spanner!!! My advice... fit a switch.

Adam, Have a look at http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=26689. These 5m jump leads are rated at 600A, using 25sqmm cable. If you want to be on the safe side then just use thicker cable... I used 10sqmm because it was readily available from work. Step up to 16sqmm or even 25sqmm, as with the jump leads, and I don't think you will have any problems. I've been trying to find some typical resistance figures for 10sqmm cable, but so far been unlucky... bloody useless internet! Alan

Adam, I have exactly the set-up you propose - Factory fitted marine battery at rear with switch and second battery in steering console - it has been operating perfectly satisfactorily for 3 years. I agree 2mm dia wire is no use, but why would you consider using wire thinner than the existing cables from battery to starter?? My second battery is connected to the switch/batt 1 with 10sqmm cables... basically the same size as the existing cables from the engine to the original battery. All lights and electronics are connected to Batt 2... which is a standard 60Ah car* battery. *I don't agree with using a leisure battery... if the main battery fails I would rather be able to start the engine with the back-up, than have it there just to make sure the radio works so that I can call the coastguard! I normally start the day with the switch set to Batt 1... at some point during the day I will changeover to Batt 2, to top the charge. The engine starts fine on Batt 2... on occasions I have forgotten to siwtch back to Batt 1 at the end of the day - next trip the cold engine fires up staight away on Batt 2... no problem. I never use the BOTH position on the switch... if one battery fails, it will very quickly drag down the other one. As stated in the earlier thread... NEVER swicth between batteries through the OFF position with the engine running. My boat lives at the boatyard so I don't have the option to keep batteries charged up at home... with this set-up, I don't need to. I don't get to use the boat much through the winter, so I take the batteries home at the end of the season and keep them in the garage, where they get a couple of top charges before going back in the boat in the spring. Just my two-penny worth... but it works for me.

Marc, As you've already discovered a '4wd' with a center diff but no diff lock is really a '1wd'... ie. lose traction on any one wheel and that's it - you aint goin' nowhere! What tyres have you got on it? If your just on road tyres, it might be worth changing to 'All Terrains' if your going to make a habit of beach launching. Cheers, Alan

I would have a look at the Toyota Hi-Lux Surf, or the 4Runner (UK version) if you don't fancy an import. Proper boat pulling machine not a girlie 4x4 like the Honda and RAV4.

Yes, you can... 1. Measure the resistance (Rl, in Ohms) and the length (l, in mm) from Nose to Tail. 2. Measure the resistance (Rw, in Ohms) and the width (w, in mm) across the widest point. 3. The weight can then be calculated using the following formula - (Rl^2 x l) x (πRw^2 x w) ------------------------ kg sq root(l x w) divide the result by 2.2 for lbs. Taken from research notes published on the MAFF website - here. Hope this helps.

On the subject of batteries..... How's this for a bargain - SMALL DIGITAL MULTIMETER

I had mine custom built, to my drawing, by DC Welding Fabrications 01531 640779.

I've edited my original post and attached a drawing of how my switch is wired up. The doc attached to this post shows how to wire up a switch and voltmeter - you would need a 3 position switch (centre OFF) to switch between batteries. Suitable toggle switch and splashproof cover can be found here. Hope this helps. Alan

Adam, I think you'd be better off with a battery changeover/isolator switch - like this. You can then have either, or both, battery connected to the engine for either starting or charging. The attached doc shows how I've connected mine up. A voltmeter simply connects straight across the battery terminals - again this could be connected via a (much smaller) changover swicth to monitor either battery. As for where to get one from... where else?? ... or any car accessory shop. Alan

There are plenty on e-bay - have a look here. I've got the Rapala 50lb one - seems OK.

Rich, I think this used to be the case... but there are now so many imports on the road that most companies now offer cover for imports without any penalty. I have been quoted

Well, I've plumped for a Jap Import Toyota Hi-Lux Surf 3.0 TD... although it's currently still in Japan waiting for a boat!! Plenty of info here - Hi-Lux Surf Forum The pic below is mine, at the auction in Japan....

I've still not resolved the problem with my chart plotter (Vision 07 not recieving)... it worked perfectly all day on Friday... and then yesterday - Nothing! So, as the plotter has the ability to work with an external GPS source..... I'm looking for a CHEAP, second hand basic fixed GPS unit, so long as it has a NMEA 0183 output.

If you're going to sea in a small boat I'd get a VHF radio and worry about the license later... no ones going to want to check your paperwork before responding to a Mayday call!!!!

DOMINO (Warrior 150) VHF - Swiftech M168 HH VHF - SX90 Both of the above do their job adequately... as far as I can tell!... but are the only ones I've used, so have nothing to compare them with. GPS / Plotter - Vision 07 This replaced a basic Eagle GPS unit and has performed adequately until recently... still trying to resolve a "Not Receiving" problem. The company that made them is no longer in business, so unless it is at a real bargain price I would not recommend anyone to buy one. FF - Humminbird 565 US version... imperial units only! This replaced a basic Lowrance X25b and is a huge improvement... while drifting in 50' - 80' of water recently I could 'see' a 6oz lead dropping to the bottom and being wound up!! (I didn't see any fish anywhere near it!! ) I don't know if this is expected on modern FFs, but I certainly get that sort of detail on the old Lowrance. Compass - Ritchie Angler *** CRAP *** While under way the vibration causes the card to spin!!! I should replace it really... any recomendations?? (At a sensible price!)

If anyone's interested in Namibia they should have a word with Chris Caines, skipper of Tiger Lily in Weymouth.

Adam, Have a look HERE, HERE and HERE for some info on net making. If you could get hold of some suitable twine, you could perhaps make the whole net... with a bit of practice!!! Cheers, Alan

No... I've never been able to find any references to it, other than on the MES website when they were selling them... In fact the info is still there, even though they no longer sell them. I beleive they are/were made by C-Map in Italy.