Afishionado
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Posts posted by Afishionado
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Mike, please correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought that Bream laid eggs in rocks, and rocky areas held the breeding shoals giving better protection for the hatchlings.
If the sea bed silts up too much, A it hides many crevices discouraging the breeding shoal, B the build up of silt may take years to disperse, leaving the area barren of bream for many seasons.
Maybe the researchers didnt reasearch hard enough!
Rich
Rich, I didn't know about the Bream, and fair comment to you, but I was quierying the measurements. In as much as, less than an inch of fine silt in collodial suspension didn't seem enough to cause harm, and as the fine silt would be in semi liquid form it would disperse over a short time due to tide and current.
But I am no biologist and stand to be corrected on any of this.
Mad Mike
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quote..........Poole Patch was an average 20mm deep, the PHC report that their was only going to be a maximum 4mm build up
Just as a check we are talking millimeterers here not centimeters?
20mm is slightly less than an inch
4 mm is about 3/8th inch
I wouldn't have thought that 20mm would make too much of a difference and if it is nutrient rich silt it might actualy encourage the growth of smaller members of the food chain.
Mad Mike
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I can see that now Charlie, it's so bloody obvious now, and I feel duly ashamed for not thinking of it my self. It's one of those wonderful ideas that come along every now and again.
The club has proved it's worth once again.
Mad Mike
Got my builder mate round for a coffee at the moment and I passed this tip on to him, he too thinks it's a great idea. Naturaly I have claimed it as my own original thinking
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Quote........ Fill these with a dab of hot melt from a glue gun, position the item and press firmly for a minute or so until the hot melt hardens. It'll then hold the whole plot in place overnight while the Sikaflex cures
What a bloody good idea Steve, thank you. Previous to seeing this I had made all sorts of Heath Robinson devices to enable me to jamb what I wanted fixing in place overnight. Brilliant, and so obviuous now you have pointed it out
Mad Mike
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Rich raves on.........He stuffed them up his chimney and smoked 'em
Message to self ..Don't go there Mike don't go there
Mad Mike
PS A prize of a shiny new threepenny bit (Sam, ask yer dad!
) for the best follow on to ........He stuffed them up his chimney and smoked 'em
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Good point.
Would it help to key the surfaces first?
Not really, as the nylon has such a tight molecular structure there is no surface penetration by the adhesive. Roughing the Nylon up will only destroy the flat contact adhesive force of air pressure at 15lb per/sq.in.
Mad Mike
Blimey Mike
You really need to be let out of that hospital more often!
As my good friend Scotty would say about me in Star Trek 1..............
He's life Tom but not as we know it!
Mad Mike
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Thanks for the link...how far will 10kg of oxalic crystals go? (how many kg's to a boat?)
Depends on how many people you want to kill and how quick you want them to die
.True answer is......... I would start by making up a mixture of a pint of warm water and a weight of Oxalic acid, making sure that you keep a record of how much acid you use. Try this, it will either work fine in which case try a little less acid next time to economise. Do this with separate pints untill you find a dilution that does not work well, Then go back one step. If it does not work well first time add more acid but make sure at each step you keep a record of how much you add so that in the end you can make up a larger amount by keeping to the same ratio. Once you have the correct ratio and you want to mix up a larger batch add some cheap wallpaper paste crystals. This will make the mix thixotropic (it will stick to a surface and not run). You need to leave the mix on to give it time to work, once again experiment will guide you to the optimum length of time.
Mad Mike
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Good point.
Would it help to key the surfaces first?
Not really, as the nylon has such a tight molecular structure there is no surface penetration by the adhesive. Roughing the Nylon up will only destroy the flat contact adhesive force of air pressure at 15lb per/sq.in.
Mad Mike
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I'm with Tom on this one
Nowt like a goodol' wander down memory lane Mind you I bet he looked a right pillock in black tights when they did Richard 3rd.
Mad Mike
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Nylon due to the high silicone part of its make up is not too good at maintaining an adhesive bond, therefore although Sikaflex is an extremely good sealand and bonding agent IMO you would certainly need some mechanical fixings as well, but the spacings could be further apart than if you were useing a normal silicone sealant.
Mad Mike
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As Martin said 'eel traps'. I never knew they had a proper name, well one lives and learns.
By the way talking of eels, has anybody noticed the lack of common silver eels in the harbour. They used to be almost in plague numbers, particularly the little boot lace ones. Bigger ones would put up a good fight and according to an eel eating mate of mine taste delish'. I haven't caught one for years and I was wondering if it was just me or if in fact they were generaly low in numbers now. Oh and as a PS, 6" lengths of silver eel on a pennel mount is a brilliant tope bait.
Mad Mike
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Welcome to the pair of you, Al Bino and your mate Rat.
Mad Mike
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Sorry Mike
Bit tired
to much time in the Garden maybe
or to many styrene fumes 
Charlie
Charlie, back in the 70's when I had the big Romany laid up, I was so engrossed in what I was doing and holding measurements in my head. When I stepped off the boat to go down to the workbench and saw I totaly forgot it was now 8ft or so in the air and I should be going down the ladder!!!
Yes mate straight over the wrong side to crash into the concrete below!! 
Tricky things boats!
Mad Mike
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Trevor temps me with.........modified fyke nets.
What the F*** are they I coulda said but I'm being good and not saying it
Mad Mike
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However,
From their own website you can see that they are NOT feeding their cod with sandeels.
FEED Organic cod feed uses only off-cuts of fish caught for human consumption. The parts of the fish that we don
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octolic ????????????
Oxalic surely?
Mad Mike
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PRAPS HE HASN'T FOUND THE CAP'S LOCK KEY YET
Mad Mike
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All fittings are of the same material, I am tempted to find a small anode to attach between the fuel tank & the battery earth cable just to see if any erosion is taking place. Is this a good idea?
No not at all. The anode MUST be underwater to work as it is the salts in the sea water that are the electrolyte.
Simply put.......... Any metal object that needs earth and/or electrolysis protection must be linked together via continuous lead INSIDE the boat. The lead is taken to the inner mounting nuts of the externaly and undrewater mounted anode.
If deck fittings are of similar metal ie Stainless Steel there is NO NEED to link them into the circuit. But for the sake of argument one has a bronze deck filler that feeds a mild steel painted fuel tank the galvanic protection is a must.
Mad Mike
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I found this whilst browsing the net. I haven't tried it but I certainly will if I catch any bass.
New York Cafe & Restaurants
21 CLUB'S PAN ROASTED CRISP SEA BASS:
The 21 Club in New York was awarded "Four Stars" by Forbes Magazine and "Three Stars" by Crain's New York Business.
Below is their recipe for Pan Roasted Crisp Sea Bass:
Ingredients:
4 seven-ounce black bass filets
Sea salt to taste
Fresh ground white pepper to taste
4 tbs egg wash (whisk 1 egg & 3 tbs heavy cream together)
4 tbs Rice Krispies (panko bread crumbs or corn flakes also work)
3 tbs vegetable oil
3 thyme sprigs
2 tbs vegetable oil
6 Belgian endive (split into sixths)
Spice mix (see below)
2 tsp chive oil
4 tsp aged balsamic vinegar
2 tbs tomato concass
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As you boys seem to like playing with chemicals, try diluted nitric acid (50/50 mix with water) which is also excellent for removing marine growth no matter how long its been building up.
Gordon H
Bubble bubble toil and trouble
Eye of newt etc etc
Do we have enough members to form a coven?
Mad Mike
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brillo pads and GRP hulls you have got to be kidding (or working for a repair man!!!
Sorry but advice like this need qualifing very carefully - gently use, only over areas already coated with antifoul etc etc
personally I don't mix chemicals with physical methods at all - and being a lazy sod I now use chemicals.
as said things like Starbite 'hull cleaner' are expensive. I believe this is a very dilute hydrochloric acid - well not that dilute as it can melt brushes and many rollers etc v quickly. far better, and safer, is to make up a saturated solution of oxalic acid, add a bit of wallpaper past or other starch to thicken and dollop on the hull, deck, whatever. it will (1) remove stainless rust stains (2) draw that nasty brown stain out of the hull at waterline and (3) bye bye the odd bit of weed etc that survived a quick jet wash.
then wash off and polish and wax the GRP/metal - recoat the antifoul.
500g to about 3l hot water works for me - 30 minutes but you can leave it longer without a problem.
We used to use Oxalic Acid in the motor trade (and this will date me
) to bleach back the colour of dull grey wood on Morris 1000 Travelers. We got ours from a local chemist who ordered it in for us. The dilution we used did indeed remove rust stains on the paintwork too. After treatment we would wash down with a solution of ordinary washing soda to neutralise the acid. Thinking about it I guess it would remove that yellow/brown waterline staining, and I can certainly recommend it on stained and dull wood, but do remember the washing soda after treatment.
Mad Mike
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Dave started his new job at the zoo and was given three tasks.
The first was to clear the weeds from the exotic fish pool. As Dave is doing it a huge fish leaps out and tries to bite him. Dave ends up killing it in a struggle. Realising his boss will be furious, he decides to get rid of it by feeding it to the lions.
Dave then moves onto his second job, clearing out the chimpanzee's enclosure. Immediately two of the chimps start to pelt him with coconuts. To discourage them he lashes out with his spade. Unfortunately he killed them both. He is in deep trouble now so he follows the previous course of action and throws them also into the lion's cage.
Deeply troubled because the job doesn't seem to be going too well, he goes to his next task, to collect the honey from the bees but they begin to attack him. Dave swats at them with his trusty spade and kills a large number of them before they desist. He can see no alternative but to shovel them up and again consign them to the lion's cage.
Later that day a new lion is moved to the zoo.
The newcomer asks the resident lions "what's the food like here?"
"It?s pretty good" the resident lions all agreed. "For example, today we had fish, chimps and mushy bees."
Mad Mike
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Ah well, there you havit from the profeshnials own mouth.
Any one useing this method and falling foul of the law can refer the matter to Tom who will undertake your defence at no charge
Mad Mike
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By far the best stuff for removing weed is sodium hypochlorite. It is the active ingredient in bleach, and is available in 5 gallon drums. We used to use it at the oysterfarm I worked at as a nipper. Simply dilute it 1 part SH to 4 parts water and spray it on with a weedkiller sprayer. Leave it for an hour or 2 then wash all the dead white weed off. Be warned, it is REALLY strong stuff, you need full waterproofs, gloves, goggles and facemask really. Bleach is something like 2.5% strength, we used to buy it at 40% I think. Sprayed neat onto wood is like painting it white!!
Normal bleach does work, but nowhere near as well, and it's more expensive.
I could be wrong but I think one would end up in serious trouble with the Environment Agency and the local water board as the run off from this chemical might enter the surface drains which go straight into top water disposal either in the sea or rivers.
Mad Mike
Squid
in The Lounge
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