Jack the Lad

Really worth giving this guy a ring and his prices are right. . He specialises in Suzuki outboards and has a lot of spares; some spares are from old Suzuki's he's had to dismantle/scrap etc. Martin 01554 - 835189 of Spencer Davies Marine in Burry Port, South Wales He's a real good guy, very knowlegeable on the Suzuki ! Tell him Meinciau ( say manky ) Jack told you to phone. Good luck - Jack

Hi Paul, I've just bought/launched an Alaska 500. Yet seriously to be used. All my research/info etc came up with good results - hence my purchase. But. if it's cream hulled not white ( 1988 it might be cream) I was warned to check the floor for softness/spongeyness. I found one like that and apparently is a known fault. No real problem as it can be replaced, a friend had his done for

Thanks Dan I await your PM, hopefully the seller has some more at same price. Tight lines - Jack

Hi Dan, Looked on ebay but can't find s/s at that price; only find chromed ones ? Perhaps all the stainless ones now sold or I'm looking in wrong place? Any more info/link please? Cheers - Jack

My mate had a yacht called " Passing Wind " Always thought the name " Sea Lance " should create a bit of hush on the VHF Saw a boat in Bristol channel called " Llamedos " , sounds like a greek island till you work out to read it backwards/mirror. Great name !!!

Might I suggest if laying 'Treadmaster' or any other similar decking material (even non-slip strips); always round the corners. This stops the corners from lifting and looks much better/more proffessional. Cheers -Jack

I believe the following to be correct SHAFT LENGTH Short 15" Long 20" X Long 25" XX Long 30" These are the standard measurements from the mounting bracket to the cavitation plate. There is adjustment on the bolt on type engines by using the various mounting holes and lifting the engine. Ideally the cav. plate should be in the range between level with the bottom of the hull and up to 1 inch below. Cheers - Jack

Wow - that even beats the 'lazy line' at 2765 hits. Peeps obviously very interested in boaty info/chat. - hope they find the knowledge useful Cheers - Jack

Click these guys, they are the experts and give helpful info for leisure and commercial anodes M.G.DUFF Note: If you buy an anode and it feels much 'lighter' than normal it may not be the bargain you expected - it's a fresh water anode. Fresh water and sea water anodes are different. Jack

Oops wasn't logged in on that last post Great Boat Cheers Jack

We used leave inboard diesel fuel tanks full for overwintering or fix a partly inflated baloon/condom over the breather pipe. The latter cuts down on condensation contaminating the fuel or tank, as no fresh air can enter the tank. The latter perhaps could do the same for petrol inboard tanks? Cheers - Jack

Any boat now completed without a CE certificate cannot be sold in the EU for five years; legally. So, make sure you build within compliance of the regs and find out what you have to do before you start building, to obtain certification. I personally would not be happy having to wait five years before being able to sell. Make sure you also have enough money (more than your budget) and time(longer than you think) to complete the project - because, a partly built boat isn't worth "diddly squat" Unfortunately I've seen too many projects start and not finished - dreams broken and shattered; divorces etc etc. It costs the same in time and money to fit out a poor/cheap hull as a well designed quality hull. So, make sure your hull is from a recognised designer, quality constructed, CE marked and supplied with the certifcate; also HIN marked correctly. Well done Shytalk - sounds if you've gone the course and coming out the other side - great stuff. Some 'homebuilt' do fetch more; I'm afraid most don't. Typical is the guy who starts off with loads of enthusiasm etc and the standard of fit-out and trim is excellent. Then as you go through the boat you can see the trim etc deteriorating as he runs out of patience - boat value ????. I could fill a book of horror stories where I've had to sort out home built disasters and 'c*ck ups' Think I've said enough now Good luck and be happy to anybody out there boat building . The Bajan's reckon one day somebody will cross the Pond and sail in on a bail of straw Cheers - Jack

Hi Adam, If you buy a 'known' model of boat professionally built it will hold it's value better and be easier and therefore less costly to insure. Resale is also a whole lot easier. When we were building every new boat built had to be CE registered. Not a problem for recognised boat builders but as a 'do it yourselfer' a possible major problem. I don't think you're allowed to legally sell a 'new boat' for ?? years without a CE cert. You need to check this as I'm not bang up to date. I think it's definitely easier to work a few more "hours" and buy a good professionally built boat. Purchasing the glass hull, deck cabin etc is only the start. OR are you going to rent moulds and lay it up yourself?? - please, don't go there! "Spend your time fishing not boat building" - IMHO However, if you decided to go ahead I would be happy to assist with advice/tips etc; if you so required. Cheers - Jack

Hi Adam, Don't just jump in ! Your boat building mistakes can be very expensive - your life. Pontoon/quay side advice can also be more than a bit dubious! When we were building 'one off yachts' a few guys learnt by offering/volunteering their time (some evenings and most weekends) in exchange they learnt 'how to' with hands on. We had quite a few who wanted to learn but only accepted those that were already pretty good with tools and took considerable care and pride in their work. So, perhaps if you can find a small boat builder - unfortunately now it's more difficult due to insurance policies/liabilities etc. Old days, peeps took care and if you lost a finger in the saw - it was your own fault! Due to an Americanised "let's sue'" society lots of such opportunities have been lost. There used to be a couple of good wooden boat building schools, I think one of the principal founders went here? BOAT BUILDING COURSE There does seem some experienced guys in the club who am sure will give their good knowledge. Really if you want to fit out a small 'plastic fantastic' not much problem - if you want to build an ocean cruising yacht; take professional advice. It's all about size does matter Cheers - Jack

Thanks Coddy, That's the supplier I couldn't recall -

Supplied with the boat I've just bought is a Navman Tracker 5500; do you know if an ordinary c-map cartridge fits? Looking on the c-map site there looks to be different types. Recently I saw a chandler selling C-Maps, standard size at

Wow! Can you believe that 2,694 times this thread has been viewed ???? Cheers - Jack

When I was a boat builder we used a company called Wilkes for these kind of products. Used to be very helpful guys & gals there. CLICK FOR WILKES They also do lots of different fendering if you check their home page. Cheers - Jack

Hi Jack, I guess that's the same type. I think there are a couple of types. One the whole of the end of the pin folds over. The other a flat piece in the end of the pin drops down to lock the pin in place. Either will work fine. It's easier/safer/quicker to remove a 'drop nose pin' than trying to undo a nut - I've seen some people use a nut and bolt!. Cheers - Jack

Hi Jack, Sure you can. You're actually making the 'ears' far stronger as they will be supported top and bottom. If the anchor and shackle will not pass over the bow roller with the pin in place I suggest you use a 'drop nose' pin to facilitate easy/quick removal. Cheers - Jack Hi Jack, Just thought to mention another alternative to the pin if you have a stainless steel bow roller. Have welded some stainless steel round bar across the 'ears/cheeks'. This round bar is welded on the outside faces of the bow roller and is basically shaped like an inverted U, but also shaped,kind of circular - to allow the free passage of the anchor and shackle . Cheers - Jack

Hi Jack, Sure you can. You're actually making the 'ears' far stronger as they will be supported top and bottom. If the anchor and shackle will not pass over the bow roller with the pin in place I suggest you use a 'drop nose' pin to facilitate easy/quick removal. Cheers - Jack

Hi Jack, Basically this idea is for smaller boats with very small side decks or a potentially dangerous small foredeck. At 25ft, you should not have either of these problems and you should be able to anchor via the bows. Also your anchor, chain and rope should be larger, making anchoring from the cockpit more tiresome. However if you wish to try this idea for anchoring - attach the lazy line to the anchor rope BEFORE dropping the anchor. I expect you have 'tell tale ties' on your anchor rope to show the length out - so it's easy to see where to tie on the lazy line. You can get self-stowing bow rollers. These are very effective and assist to organise your anchoring without going on the foredeck. Most bow rollers in use have the problem that the cheeks are too close together therefore not allowing the free passage of the correct size anchor shackle. Meaning you've still got to go on the foredeck to lift the anchor on to the roller. You can use these modern slimmer anchor attachments but their 'ears' have been known to break off. Nothing beats a tested and stamped galvanised shackle for safety and a wider bow roller. I know you were not trying to be awkward. Safe boating is all about thinking ahead and resolve any problems before they happen. Hope this helps. Cheers - Jack

Hi Gordon, I'm no good at drawing with these puters ( I'm a puter novice) but I will try and explain and see if that helps. Take a length of rope equal to your boat length. Attach one end to the centre bow deck cleat and take this rope over your bow roller. Hopefully your roller has some side cheeks with holes at the top to take a pin. Fix the pin so now the rope cannot jump out/off the bow roller. The other end of the line you bring back to your cockpit; outside of any stanchions. Make sure this rope will not now reach your stern - if it does - shorten the rope . This is to ensure the rope cannot get into the prop if it falls overboard. That is your Lazy rope installed. Lazy because it isn't doing anything at the moment. Now when it comes to anchoring . Let out sufficient anchor rope from the cockpit ( at least 3 times maximum depth) now attach the Lazy rope end you have in the cockpit to the anchor rope. Carry on letting out your anchor rope PLUS your Lazy rope. In less than a boat length the anchoring strain will be taken on your Lazy rope and the anchor rope becomes slack. To recover the anchor. Pull the slack anchor rope you have in the cockpit which will become under strain - continue to pull and you will pull the end of the Lazy rope back into the cockpit which you can then deal with. Hence you have lowered and raised the anchor without leaving the cockpit. I do not know how the bouying release system works but the guys here will no doubt explain the 'how to' on that. I hope I haven't confused you and my explanation is clearer than the Bristol Channel water Cheers - Jack

You're 100% right Duncan !!! ie. some racing yachts are water ballasted. But to also answer Newboy's question re will it float? Yes. So; no need to carry a container of water just drag it thru the water. Cheers - Jack