Mike Fox Posted August 19, 2010 Report Share Posted August 19, 2010 (edited) When sailing from Granville to St Malo this week, into a NW4-5, we encountered an area of uncharted overfalls off Concale, and we were "stopped" by a 3m plus slamming wave that made the whole boat shudder. No harm seemed to be done, and we continued in to harbour, motoring when head to wind, to try to get over the tidal sill. When I did engine checks after tying up I was horrified to find diesel in the engine drip-tray, and it all seemed to mixed in with mud and sand. I used the engine sump pump to remove 3-4 litres into used coke bottles, and could see no water mixed in with it. I then used kitchen roll to wipe clean everything, and track back to check lift pump, pipes, water cooling system, seacock, and concluded it wasn't engine related. The bilges had a little more, which was removed the same way. We had an old 5 gallon jerry can in the main cockpit locker, and we hoped it had leaked at the extreme angles of heel we had experienced, but it was all dry. After this, we checked the engine and bilges again, and all remained dry. Only one place left to check, and we found the main fuel tank had ruptured. It's a polyeurythane tank I had fitted about 7 years ago, after the mild steel tank fitted from new had developed rusty holes! The diesel had sloshed around the cockpit locker, and washed al the sand and grit we had accumulated over 7 years down to the engine tray. The tank is a 120 litres box, with welded seams, and it was the lid that had popped, presumably when hit by a wave. There seemed no way of putting it securely together, so I visited the local boatyard shop that specialised in plastic repairs, and explained the problem. I left with coarse sandpaper, acetone and sikaflex, with instructions on the best way to seal it. I had to wait 6 hours for it to cure, then covered it in 3 layers of gaffer tape. I don't plan to endure too many degrees of heel on the way home, and will keep the tank 75% full instead of close to the top! We motored the 8-9 miles to St. Cast, and all was well. I can't think what else to do, other than check it regularly, motor instead of sail, avoid heavy weather, go through the Alderney Race on slack and hope I can get back to Poole before it leaks further. Any other suggestions? Mike Edited August 19, 2010 by Mike Fox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam F Posted August 19, 2010 Report Share Posted August 19, 2010 I'd be quite confident in the repair Mike. But obviously I cant see the damage. Ive tried to clean up old sikaflex in the past and it sticks like the devil! Just keep and eye on it. I'm sure that it'll get you back. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
great white Posted August 20, 2010 Report Share Posted August 20, 2010 Wow what bad luck Mike. As Adam says its hard to discuss a repair that we have not seen, but I am sure with you french and access to an experianced boatyard the repair will be as sound as possible. I would maybe carry as much spare fuel as possible in other containers so that the level in the tank is reduced as you suggest. I am sure that given the right wind direction you would run before the wind if that stops FF healing over. Just remember if it gets worse you could rig a supply from something like a 25l plastic outboard tank [maybe just for entering harbour and berthing] But also consider how you will get the engine spill return into that same tank. I experianced a total fuel blockage on GW once in the wych channel, so I syphoned out over a gallon to a bucket and rigged the engine lift pump inlet flex pipe to suck from the bucket. Engine now running I was surprised that I needed to refill the bucket half way to the Yacht Club less than a mile away. Obviously a lot of fuel was being used to cool and lubricate the engine fuel pump then spill back to the tank. as on that boat a full days fishing only used 5 gallons Max. I feel confident that you have done what you can and I hope it has not spoilt your trip, providing the vent is oK on the tank and the level in the tank lowered I am sure that there is not too much strain on your repair Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Fox Posted August 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2010 Thanks Adam and Charlie, Have since moved twice, 8 miles to St.Cast then around 40 further miles to Lezardrieux. The repair seems to have held, and motorsailing has reduced the level to about two-thirds of a tank. Am increasingly confident of the repair, and think keeping fuel relatively low will get us back ok. Thinking ahead to a more permanent repair, I think popping the tongue and groove back together should be possible with "an appropriate application of gentle persuasion", which I should be able to do back in Poole. Anyone know an ultra-strong epoxy glue that is stronger than the original, that I could use to execute a more permanent join ? Thanks, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
great white Posted August 20, 2010 Report Share Posted August 20, 2010 (edited) Mike if it was me I would contact the company that made the tank to be 100% sure what they made it from and ask them about glue and cleaner. after the repair some weaved tape bandaging soaked in the correct adhesive may add strength, but I have no idea what the access to the damaged area is like Glad its holding up Charlie Edited August 20, 2010 by great white Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncan Posted August 20, 2010 Report Share Posted August 20, 2010 agree with Charlie - but would add that I wouldn't be too concerned with getting it back to where it was given that that failed in some way. suspect that you ultimate solution lies in a combination of the initial physical bond with added/improved reinforcement. I am getting a picture from the posts, but look forward to seeing actual images in due course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam F Posted August 20, 2010 Report Share Posted August 20, 2010 Is it strapped and chocked? I spent alot of time on the fuel tank when doing JV. She sits on a base of glassed in 18mm ply, with a pair of 2x2" chocks the full length of the tank to stop ANY side by side movement. In addition she has a pair of 2" rachet straps around her... the tank isnt going anywhere. A 160L of fuel slopping around creates some pretty huge pressures! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Fox Posted September 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 (edited) Thanks for all of the advice chaps. The repair did hold, despite the heavy weather, and I now have confidence it will be ok until I get a permanent fix done. The picture is from the outside of the port locker in the cockpit. The tank is black, with red webbing ratchet straps holding it, and a simple sighting guage to show fuel level, with ball valves top and bottom. Inlet and breather tubes are back left. The orange cable is our caravan style mains supply to the battery charger and 240v ring main. The repair is on the top front edge, and as you might be able to tell, it's almost impossible to check for other potential seam openings without removing the whole tank. I'm now almost certain that was the only one ! Mike Edited September 4, 2010 by Mike Fox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Fox Posted September 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2010 (edited) Well, a big thank you to Hurn Plastics, of Airfield Way. We talked, someone came out, and repaired the tank in situ this morning. The material is apparently Polyethylene, and when I described the repair, the chap said it was the best that could probably be done, but he bet it hadn't stuck properly. Before he came to the boat this morning, I cleared the locker, and removed the "patch" I'd applied, and he was right. The gaffer tape was lifting and bubbling, and the "stick to absolutely anything" sikaflex just rolled off with my thumb. Apparently, no glues work, nor epoxy resins. The only cure is a plastic weld, but the material is great for diesel. He explained the tank was made of standard 9mm sheet, and heat welded together on the edges of the sheets. The tank had been further reinforced by cutting a v-shaped groove half way down into the weld, and inserting a jointing v-shaped piece, which had been melted in a hot-air gun to over 300 degrees C. This gives a secure molecular bond. He cut out the damaged section of old v-shaped strip plus 4-6" either side. Then he inserted a hot blade to weld the two sheets together. The removed section was then replaced with a new v-shaped strip, to make it as per new. He then cut further shallow grooves above and below the first v-piece for the whole length of that side, and inserted two further v-shaped strips, flattening and reinforcing the whole edge for extra strength. Well, job now jobbed, very sensible costs, and a happy customer. I'm happy to recommend Hurn Plastics to club members. Mike Edited September 11, 2010 by Mike Fox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverick Martin Posted September 11, 2010 Report Share Posted September 11, 2010 Good news then Mike and well done Hurn Plastics Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.