Should I Do It Myself

[kaptin kod]

Thinking about purchasing a new outboard for my warrior 165, now reading a few articles a lot of sites recommend having it proffesionaly fitted. What do you think?. is it easy to find balance or should I just find a local fitter to do it and save myself the hassel.

[Newboy]

If it is a brand new outboard, then you may find you have to have it professionally installed by an authories agent, otherwise you may void your warranty.

 

I know Tohatsu has this policy, so does Honda, Johnnyrude also. I think it's call the pdi check.

 

Other than that, the fitting itself is fairly straight forward. The holes you have on there will fit outboards from other manufacturers. It's a matter of removing the o;d outboard, and put the new one on (using an engine hoist). Run the cables for the control to the front, connect them up and heypresto, it's done.

 

It shouldn't cost that much (when you are buying an new outboard, it's a small amount) anyhow. I was charged

[Afishionado]

Thinking about purchasing a new outboard for my warrior 165, now reading a few articles a lot of sites recommend having it proffesionaly fitted. What do you think?. is it easy to find balance or should I just find a local fitter to do it and save myself the hassel.

Size does matter!

 

I take it you are talking about a main engine.

 

These things weigh a hell of a lot and are difficult to manouver. Once the point of balance has been lost over they go, and can easily take an arm or a leg with them if your in the way. So that's point one.

Point two, if you make a booboo it's down to you to put it right. It could be as simple as having to enlarge or re drill a hole you put in the wrong place. Or it could be having to buy a new u-pathasese gaffle bracket 'cos you miss read the instructions . They cost

[duncan]

Jeez Mike whilst there are some important issues I can't help thinking you are a little over the top here..........

 

Kod, If you have no experience, no equipment and no mates who have both then it's probably best to get it done professionally by the firm you intend to service the beast through it's warantee period. If you buy the unit from them in the first place too then even better. If you ask their advice about which unit would both be easy to substitute on your rig, and deliver the improvements you are after before buying it then this should enable you to pin them right down on installation costs as well!

 

There are reasons for doing it yourself (in my opinion) especially if you don't intend to rush it -

 

1. You get to check over the transom and fittings at your leisure. This can allow you to refinish the holes in the transom properly - ie sealing the insides properly and redrilling for example.

2. You get to learn about your steering and control mechanisms for the future.

 

Yes they are heavy but only really to the extent that they demand respect.

 

You will need the installation inspected as Kam highlights, again by the people you intend to service/warantee the unit is sensible and it won't cost the same as an installation.

 

Having said all the above I would probably get it supplied & fitted simply so that I could throw it back at someone if there was any problem at all without getting into arguments about who's responsible - this only applies if the supplier is fitting; if not you already have an unfortunate recipie.

 

All the best

 

PS why are you looking to change?

[Maverick Martin]

Thinking about purchasing a new outboard for my warrior 165, now reading a few articles a lot of sites recommend having it proffesionaly fitted. What do you think?.

 

I think your mad going to other sites you should have come here first

 

Seriously though not a lot I can add other than if its a new bit of kit then for peace of mind spend the money, have it fitted then no chance of problems with the warranty if needed later (if you keep to the service schedule that is). If its second hand and you can pick up a spanner the correct way and use a screw driver competently then save some money and fit it yourself as any warranty will be very limited and you may need the money later should any problems arise with the engine.

 

Martin

[Adam F]

Kod,

 

When I re-engined my 165 last year and was shopping for engines all of the places I looked (new engines) were offering free fitting in an attempt to get me to buy.

 

I went to Select Marine in Poole who sold me the engine for about the best rate I could find anywhere give or take a few quid, fitted it for free, are local if anything goes wrong in the future and threw in the first 60 hour service for nothing....downside is that they didnt replace the throttle box or any of the cables which I thought came with new engines - they just used the exisiting ones.

 

Anyway - cant add much to the above. What engine will you go for? If its any help I went for a 60hp 4 stoke EFI Mariner. I am pleased with it but after having it for a year I think there are better on the market - if I did it again it would be either the 60/70hp Suzuki (mega quiet, soooo responsive and loads of low down torque) or the Etec - 75hp - as small as a 40hp Mariner and Paul at Warrior claims that these will push the 165 to 40 knots!

 

Adam

[Seamouse]

the Etec - 75hp - as small as a 40hp Mariner and Paul at Warrior claims that these will push the 165 to 40 knots!

 

Hi Adam,

A friend's 150 has been fitted with a 75hp Etec and the very best he's seen is 38 knots two-up. Paul may be exaggerating a little saying 40knots for the 165 (though 40mph would be possible?). Either way, it still equates to way faster than you can actually travel on the average day

 

Steve

 

(I WANT one)

[kaptin kod]

thanks for the reply guys, as it is going to be a new engine I think i'll take your advice and get it fitted. Looking at the Mariner 60hp ELPTO hopefully this will give me a bit more power and fuel saving than my current 16 year old mercury 60hp. Just hoping I can part ex this against the new one for a bit of a saving.

[duncan]

not being funny but why do you think you are going to get more power from one Merc 60hp 2 stroke OB than another? Equally why should the fuel consumption differ significantly (they have evolved a little in this area but not significantly - it's still going to drink exactly the same 6 gallons per hour with the throttle to the stop)?

 

I am, in the above, taking your expectation of a decent trade in to indicate that the existing unit runs OK.

 

Changing to a 4 stroke or direct fuel injected 2 stroke is however a different matter.

[Newboy]

The new 2 stroke (efi) will be more economical than your old 16 year old 2 stroke (carb), however, don't think the saving will be as much as you expect. If you are serious about fuel economy, then consider either a 4 stroke of the new 2 stroke direct injection on the market. You would be looking as around 30% better econ.

 

It may cost a few hundred pounds more but with the price of unleaded today, it wouldn't take many hours to recoup the cost.

[kaptin kod]

Sorry to cause such a dispute with what I thought was going to be a simple answer but the 16 year old engine has a much higher consumption than newer models, may just be a timing thing and if it is running on a high fuel intake than this will probabley affect performance. like most things, age affects performance. Not expecting miricles but it does seem to use an excesive amount. Anyway I did purchase the Mariner and will let you know on the performance if I spot any.

 

 

[duncan]

Hey no dispute Kaptain - and the best of luck. I am sure you will see some difference from a new engine.

 

Kam - where does efi come into this? last time I looked the Merc/Mar 60's had 3 carbs bolted to the inlet manifold...........

[Newboy]

I think the newerish (not the Di) 2 strokes uses injection instead of a card to put fuel mixture into the cylinders. They still don't pass the new emission test but they are a little bit better on the gas.

[duncan]

not aware of any like that in the range being discussed Kam. Last time I looked the 60 ELPTO was a 3 cylinder, 996cc, 3 carb electric start, long shaft power trim and tilt model with oil injection that hasn't changed a whole lot in ..........a lot of years. Refined certainly, including the PTO bit, but no fundamentals.

 

however I will now go off and check!

 

hmmm - hard to pin it down but it looks like the model kicked of in it's current guise in 1988 - facinating stuff on the older models everywhere but not a lot on recent history anywhere!