charlieannear Posted November 2, 2008 Report Share Posted November 2, 2008 Good work Jim! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted November 3, 2008 Report Share Posted November 3, 2008 (edited) If anyone thinks I'm doing this wrong, then please feel free to correct me. I'm posting this to help anyone who has not done it yet. See picture of Bearing Saver and Brake Drum. Edited November 3, 2008 by Small Fry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted November 3, 2008 Report Share Posted November 3, 2008 The first time I did this, I took out the Circlip and spring etc. I bent my circlip pliers and struggled for ages. So after a think, I decided on a different plan for the other side. Using a Mallet, I hit the side of the bearing saver. Then turned the spindle through 180 degrees. And kept repeating until the bearing saver had " walked " out of the brake drum. see photo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted November 3, 2008 Report Share Posted November 3, 2008 See Photo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted November 3, 2008 Report Share Posted November 3, 2008 (edited) Removal of the bearing saver will expose the split pin and castle nut. Remove these and the drum should pull off by hand. This photo shows my brake shoes. I changed them recently and they have only been in salt water twice. I must look into these brake flush kits that i've heard about in the club. The block at the top of the plate, between the shoes is the adjuster. You will find a Bolt head at the rear of the plate. If you screw this in, it pulls a wedge between the shoes and opens them up. If you unscrew it a few turns and knock it in towards the backplate, it will release the pressure off the shoes to ease Drum removal. Edited November 4, 2008 by Small Fry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted November 3, 2008 Report Share Posted November 3, 2008 Remove the Shoe retaining spring and brake shoes. Pull the outer cable off the back of the drum. Photo shows shoe retaining spring and cable with detachable end. I was told that pre 1996, the end was fixed to the cable and since then, just a simple nipple which locates in the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted November 3, 2008 Report Share Posted November 3, 2008 (edited) Photo shows nipple and cable removed. Edited November 3, 2008 by Small Fry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted November 3, 2008 Report Share Posted November 3, 2008 Photo of outer cable retainer. Half is fixed to brake back plate - Half is loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coddy Posted November 3, 2008 Report Share Posted November 3, 2008 Suggestion here; Clean up the back plate and smear waterproop grease over the plate. This will help keep the back plate from corroding. Coddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted November 3, 2008 Report Share Posted November 3, 2008 Refit Cable and Shoes in opposite order as removal. I have no Idea of tension on bearing nut, so perhaps someone can help. I did the nut up tight and then backed off half a turn so that the drum revolves freely without being sloppy. Re fit split pin. Re - insert bearing saver with a mallet and re - grease until grease comes out of small side hole on bearing saver. I hope this is of use to someone. I could not find any instructions on the " Tinternet " Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted November 3, 2008 Report Share Posted November 3, 2008 Thanks Dave, Good suggestion about the grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coddy Posted November 3, 2008 Report Share Posted November 3, 2008 (edited) I would add that if you do not have S/Steel cables, might be worth hanging the cables up and add a little diesel oil down the inner cable to help prevent any "sticking" in the future. Make up a little cup out of plasticine at the top of the cable and pour the diesel into the cup and allow to drain down the cable. When I did my cables I also added a quantity of grease in the brake hub end of the cable to help prevent water ingress. Anything helps to stop salt water from getting into cables and corrode. Good write up Jim. Coddy Edited November 3, 2008 by Coddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted November 3, 2008 Report Share Posted November 3, 2008 Thanks for the help Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlieannear Posted November 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2008 Excellent Jim! And just to reiterate, the s/s cables that jum fitted were cheaper than I normally pay for mild steel ones. But Coddy's top tips are spot on too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manic Moore Posted November 4, 2008 Report Share Posted November 4, 2008 (edited) Another tip. When you are putting the bearings back, spend a few minutes rubbing as much grease as possible into the bearings, fill up the bearing housing and the bearing saver. When you hit the saver back in the grease is under plenty of pressure so ensures no air gaps for water to penetrate. Another tip I got from Gordon Holt was to paint the edges of the shoes with varnish or good paint that will leach into the sides and ends of the shoe. This stops the salt water getting in and seperating the lining from the metal shoe. Regards Gordon Edited November 4, 2008 by Manic Moore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazza Posted November 5, 2008 Report Share Posted November 5, 2008 Jim, try a good quality copper grease, normal grease will stay on quite a long time but copper grease is the one for me. Also very good at all moving parts....springs and hinges etc. good idea with the trailer and engine forum Gary also try using some axle stands.....takes a little longer but a lot safer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted November 5, 2008 Report Share Posted November 5, 2008 Thanks Gary, I meant to say " Always use Axle Stands " or equivalent. I would only go under something jacked up with a single item in an emergency. My photos do not show them, But I had Axle Stands and Concrete Blocks under the Trailer Frame. Thanks for pointing it out. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted November 5, 2008 Report Share Posted November 5, 2008 Nice one Gordon, Next Time I strip them down, I have a proper check list now. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 I was talking to Tony O' ( Fat Chance ) today. He looked at this thread and said " you should be able to change the cables without stripping the drum " By George I think he's right. It never occurred to me. Has anyone tried it ? It should be possible with the detachable cable ends ( Newer than 1996 ) Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted November 7, 2008 Report Share Posted November 7, 2008 Suggestion here; Clean up the back plate and smear waterproop grease over the plate. This will help keep the back plate from corroding. Coddy Also worth painting the backplate with Hammerite before applying the grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazza Posted November 8, 2008 Report Share Posted November 8, 2008 Jim, correct....you can change brake cable without taking the drum off. if you take off the cable cover to the rear of the drum it will all become easier to see and do. Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coddy Posted November 8, 2008 Report Share Posted November 8, 2008 Please be aware that not all Knott brakes have detachable ends. To identify your model check here for cables http://www.western-towing.co.uk/acatalog/B..._Cables_ID.html For an exploded view of Knott brakes http://www.western-towing.co.uk/acatalog/K...ts_Diagram.html For AL-KO brakes go here http://www.western-towing.co.uk/acatalog/A...ts_Diagram.html This site does provide all you need at good prices http://www.western-towing.co.uk/acatalog/ Coddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted August 19, 2010 Report Share Posted August 19, 2010 Bump : Try this Richard. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted August 20, 2010 Report Share Posted August 20, 2010 Bump: Again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dicky Posted August 20, 2010 Report Share Posted August 20, 2010 just read it, thanks jim. feel confident now to tackle this again and thanks everyone for your input. dicky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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