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pirky
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Hi all

I expect this is a bit of a silly question to those who know......but what do I need to do to the outboard engine to keep it safe over winter?

 

Up to now I have done nothing other than keep it covered by the normal standard cover....all appears to be ok......but got me to thinking with all this cold weather we have had and that to come so I have popped a layer of foam backed carpet and two other layers of tarpaulin around and over it now. ( hope it is not closing door after horse has bolted ).

Obviously I am thinking that any water still left in the block will probably freeze in extreme conditions......luckily the boat and engine is on my drive and close to the house in a very sheltered area. I had anticipated starting the engine every couple of weeks.....but best laid plans and all that....with the weather as it has been......not once yet. And now with all the covering .....it will have to wait until the weather breaks for the better I expect.

 

 

Any thoughts, general ideas , hints, experiences recommendations etc will be gratefully received.

 

Dave biggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gif

 

ps

Confusion reigns ...I have just re-checked the weather for the next week or so and it is all above freezing except for tonight/tomorrow am -1 deg C. Totally different from yesterdays forecast. rolleyes.gif

Edited by pirky
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A generic one off the net and American I think.

 

How to Winterize an Outboard Motor

To keep your outboard motor in top shape from year to year, prepare it carefully for winter storage.

 

Tools: owner's manual, freshwater flushing unit, garden hose, screwdriver, adjustable wrench, coffee can or other container, tarp, piece of scrap wood.

 

Materials: fuel conditioner, rust-preventive oil, lower-unit lubricant, soft cloths, replacement nuts and bolts as required, touch-up paint, car wax. Buy lubricant, oil, and fuel conditioner at a marine store.

 

Time: about 2 hours.

 

Whatever brand or size outboard motor you have, follow the specific recommendations and instructions given in your owner's manual. Use only specified lubricants and replacement parts; if you use different ones you'll void your warranty.

 

If you operate your motor in salt water, it must be thoroughly flushed to prevent corrosion. To flush the motor, use a freshwater flushing unit made to fit your motor. Attach the unit's fitting to the motor's cooling system as directed by the manufacturer; attach the coupling at the other end of the unit to a garden hose. Run the motor for several minutes at less than half throttle, exactly as directed, to remove all salt from the motor.

 

Whether you operate the motor in salt water or in fresh, you must protect it from corrosion. The last time you use the motor before storing it, add to the fuel tank 1 ounce of fuel conditioner for each gallon of fuel in the tank. Operate the motor for about 5 minutes to make sure the fuel conditioner has reached the carburetor. Then disconnect the fuel line or turn off the fuel, and squirt a liberal amount of rust-preventive oil into the air intake of the carburetor; use the type of oil recommended by your motor's manufacturer. The engine should sputter, smoke, and die. If it doesn't, squirt in more oil; then shut the motor off and shift it into neutral gear. Dismount the motor and let it cool.

 

With the motor disconnected, drain the fuel from the carburetor. Remove the cowling and disconnect the spark plug wires; be careful to note their location exactly so you'll be able to replace them correctly. Using an adjustable wrench, remove the spark plugs. Inject about 1 ounce of rust-preventive oil into each cylinder, and slowly crank the flywheel on the top of the motor to spread the oil over the entire cylinder surface. Then replace and hand-tighten the spark plugs; leave the ignition wires disconnected.

 

If your owner's manual recommends periodic lubricant changes for your motor's lower unit, remove the unit's top and bottom fill plugs and let the lubricant drain into a coffee can or other container. Replace the lubricant with the type recommended for your motor. Insert the lubricant applicator's nozzle into the bottom fill hole and squirt the lubricant into the gear case. When the lubricant starts to come out the top fill hole, replace the top plug; then remove the applicator nozzle and replace the bottom plug. Remove excess lubricant with a soft cloth.

 

Inspect the lower unit for loose or missing nuts or bolts; consult the drawings and follow the precise instructions provided in your owner's manual. Tighten loose screws, nuts, and bolts; replace missing hardware with the exact type recommended for use in your motor.

 

After lubricating and inspecting the motor, soak a soft cloth in rust-preventive oil and squeeze it out. Rub the cloth over all exposed parts of the motor to coat them with oil and prevent corrosion. Then replace the cowling.

 

Inspect the cowling for chipped or peeling paint; touch up bad spots with matching paint. Use a touch-up kit made for your motor, or any good enamel; follow the manufacturer's instructions for application and drying. When the motor is completely dry, apply a coat of car wax to the cowling, as directed by the manufacturer. For further protection, rub the cowling with an oil-soaked cloth to coat it lightly with oil.

 

Store the motor in a dry, dust-free place; cover it with a tarp to protect it from dirt. If the motor has a battery, remove the battery and store it separately; set it off the floor on a piece of scrap wood. Make sure the case is clean and the water in the cell is at the correct level.

 

During the winter, work the throttle control every few weeks to keep the moving parts from corroding; twist the hand throttle or move the control lever the throttle control cable is attached to. Gently pull the starter cord to engage the gears. If the motor has a battery, check the water level in the cell and add water as necessary to maintain the charge.

 

NB

The flushing bit I would use saltX

 

cool.gif

Edited by Wedger
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Dangers of not running very frequently during winter in addition to the possible freeze fractures include:

 

Gum deposits in carbs (2 strokes)

Impellers going stiff where compressed and braking up when you do start it.

Thermostats jamming as deposits harden.

 

and the big one for 2 strokes sad.gif

Condensation on the crank causing corrosion and the subsequent, painful death at the start of next season, when the pitted crank busts up ya shells...... rattle huh.gif bang blink.gif pop weep.gifweep.gif

 

sick.gif

Edited by Wedger
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I think it is fine to do if you lay your boat up for winter but not many of us do! (I think it is for fair waether boaters who dont go out after Nov until Spring).

 

I find that running up the engine every 2 or 3 weeks for 15 mins gets it nice un warm and charges battery etc. Other than that I do nothing.

 

It is thae same as using it mostly.

 

Rob

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Thanks for that Wedger.....guess I have got loads to do ...... and initially I was only worried about the freezing conditions sad.gif

 

Rob ...I think I prefer your idea of starting her and running for 15 or so mins every 2 or 3 weeks.....but I guess a bit of both wont do any harm.

 

Focussed me on the need to do something...

 

Thanks again

 

Dave biggrin.gifbiggrin.gif

Edited by pirky
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Continued use is fine provided you protect from the severe cold. Still worth running the float chambers dry on 2 stokes to prevent the gumming up. (an all year round issue).

 

My old mariner 60 on the Wilson, 1990, had 200 hours when I got her in 2000. I put on another 3-400 in five years with no probs, just kept running through the winters. The guys who bought her from me came unstuck and only put 3 hours on in 2 years.................. The crank went blink.gif

Edited by Wedger
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Ok lads.......latest update

 

I "unpacked" my outboard this morning .....weather kind and had a 2 hour window so thought it an opportune time to start her up and run her for a while as discussed..

 

Started fine after about 3 pulls and was pumping water well.........then after about 3 mins just died off a bit for a while and slowly stopped. Fuel starve....forgot to open tank vent. rolleyes.gif Pulled again and she fired first time and was away again.......so all seemed fine and I let her run for about 10 mins.....I stopped her and was about to pack her away again when I decided to give it another run....pulled up and she fired ....BUT the recoil spring went "ping". Oh sh** mad.gif

 

It had broken about an inch from the end so spent most of the next 2 hours drilling, re-fixing the end connection and re-setting the spring. wink.gif

 

Managed to do it all.......started the engine again.......started the Aux too......cleared up and re-packed the engine before I collected Ben at 3.30. laugh.gif

 

What had started at 10.30 as a 2 hr window ended being a 5 hr marathon.....Best laid plans eh ?? Still I know things are ok for now !! laugh.gif

 

Dave biggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gif

Edited by pirky
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I'd had my main battery connected to the Optimate for a week.

So I connected it back up, fitted the muffs and fired it up.

Just like Brian, it started straight away. Made Tea.

Ran it for about 15 minutes. it all seemed O.K.

Then got the little engine and started it. That took about 6 pulls.

Ran that for about 15 minutes.

Put the spare battery on charge.

Made more Tea.

Pulled the trailer up the drive.

Scrubbed the area around where the boat had been. ( ground going green and slippery ) Made more Tea.

Put everything away just as it was getting dark. Made more Tea.

Feel much happier now.

Just need to take the prop off and check my gearbox seals.

Thanks for all the usefull info gentlemen.

 

Cheers.

 

Jim

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Hi again G & B's

Is there a club run workshop for outboard maintenance ??? Is there anybody in the club that would be willing to do one for a small fee ?? wink.gif

 

I am not talking about a course that makes me an instant mechanic.....just some basic maintenance.....oil seals, oil change, prop change, stripping down and those type of things. It would be good if it could also relate to the back of boat situations we might encounter too (even changing plugs at sea can be problematical I would think) !! ohmy.gif

 

I am a complete num nuts with engines and the like......I get by....but usually because I am between a rock and a hard place. I don't know about basic things like....how often is a service required, is the period based on hrs or months/years of use, what is done on a typical service, Is there any safety checks or simple things we can do between services, basic mechanics of an outboard (how does it generate the prop rotation and where is it vulnerable) different types of outboard and their peculiarities etc

 

Just a thought....being a small boats club...I know a little knowledge can be dangerous sometimes but there must be more club members out there that would like, benefit from some idea about the thing that drives most of us !!

 

Dave biggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gif

 

 

 

 

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weep.gif

 

OH DEAR. I Tried to start my little old outboard Merc 4hp two stroke and she is not having any of it. (usually reliable).

Last time was when flushing in fresh water about November time, and drained fuel until she stopped running. I seem to have a good spark so could it be the fuel has gone off or will the carburettor jets be blocked by now. HELP anybody?

 

Regards Alan unsure.gif

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