Leaderboard

Well possibly Terry but it would also have to take account bringing on board the business of the anchor, you might swap one problem for another. Another way to reduce the problem is a much large diameter roller, this could be made from bolting together rough cut kitchen cutting board blocks then turning ideally in lath or at a pinch on a pillar drill. The problem is there must be enough clearance to accommodate the increased radius of the roller. On the whole I think we await the results of the S/S cable, clearly it works on some boats and as solutions go it is pretty simple to implement.

I’m a bit late getting to this one but I will add my experience it it helps. On my 23’ Grady White, I had a wire strop made by a yacht rigger using stainless cable that would normally be for mast stays. This was heavy duty, with a loop crimped at each end, and made slightly longer than the anchor and looked very neat. One loop was shackled to the hole at the rear or the anchor, and the other loop was secured to the swivel which connected to the chain/rope rode. The front loop was then tied to the front of the anchor so that the strop was slack and the weight was on the tied connection. like Steve, I did not use cable ties as they degrade over time and fail when you are not expecting it - I used thin binding chord and added extra turns until I felt it was right. The bottom line was that when I needed to, I could break out the anchor connection using the weight and power of the boat, but after 10 years it never failed in normal service, broke out when required, the strop was as good as new, and I never lost an anchor. In fact it worked so well that I would often anchor in known rocky areas with confidence that I would get my gear back. Stay safe everyone. Ian

After two days of isolation harrowing and rolling fields I noticed a commotion in this double trough, a bit of sheep’s blood ruby dubby and I hooked into this Porgie. Had two big runs but broke me😳