duncan

wish I'd sent in some pics - could certainly have rivaled some of the fish listed and Paul's a great snapper! actually managed to get hold of a copy this month - will suscribe too now.

if it has an auto switch (which your earlier post suggests) then no. I was simply highlighting 2 cases in the last 3 years where small boats (afloat) had problems - 1 leak - anchored gone to lunch, 1 heavy rain - mooring; and in neither case was anyone able to simply switch on the bilge pump (neither was auto). The former was beached (battery switch very well hidden - deliberately - in a locker!) and the latter bailed (with some choice swear words). The beached boat crew bitched really strongly at the people who had eached their boat as it was hi and dry for many hours (if they hadn't had a right royal go it would have been a simple matter for a group to pick it up and re float it but everyone just walked away in disgust!

by outwith the isolator I didn't mean it should have it's own - simply that it should be direct (as yours) but also direct even if it's switched rather than automatic - reason being that it is not unusual for someone else to become aware of a problem when you are not aboard and look to switch the bilge pump on for you - difficult if it's circuit is isolated! You will leave the boat afloat at some stage - even if it's only for a quick drink at the Banks Arms to celebrate that huge bass when you land it!!! Re +ve bar - understood completely but it;s not good practive to have an exposed +ve terminal of any size for a whole load of reasons. Extending, expanding, enlarging etc the input terminal to the switch panel is the normal way to go on a small boat - also easier for anyone to understand when looking at the wireing. A negative bar doesn't have the same issues and, in any event, the engine etc act as exactly that anyway!

The positive 'terminal bar' is a little superflous I would have thought, and if it's reasonably accessable the switch panel input would act as the AUX feed for individually fused items. You aren't gaining anything interference wise with an additional bar. Do make sure you have a battery switch to isolate any disconnected electronic plugs and avoid corrosion. Do make sure the bilge pump is wired outwith the isolator - even if it's not automatic.

[catch] thing that prevented you from making the fishing trip

also freezing it does the job. even better - if you are going to keep a ray kill it and wing it quick (realise that might make skinning a little harder for those following the slit/skin/wing system but there you go.

BobF as another couple of members will be aware my regular fishing partner has 'a few years' under his belt off Poole, potting and trawling out to mid channel, but everything he ever wrote down is in Decca coordinates..........I had given up finding an application to convert! All I need now is his his book! Thanks again

is the picture of the bits and the thread discussing their use is alderney ring setup

I am sorry Paul but I fail to see how forgetting Valentines Day could be considered a joke........

Must admit I feel 15 knots is a good cruising speed to cover the ground. Whilst I can cruise over 30 I find 17 - 19 a nice sort of wandering around speed currently.

Now that is a good Poole boat - run all year on a tank!

Kam, Spain was more like 900 miles each way - but the weather and water were a lot warmer........... That said we had pike to 19lb in the Loch, and one of the best nights I have ever had on the water was anchored up in the islands off Luss with a wee dram watching the sun go down. Despite a couple of early runs out a few miles offshore in Spain for tuna/bonito the best fish I managed in 6 weeks of daily fishing was a 1lb golden mullet! Still don't think you can beat Poole - the clubs waters have it all in abundance; just a matter of getting out there and getting it done!

Kam, "Used to" was pertinent to the previous 2 boats which I towed between Loch Lomond (pike) Plymouth (pollack and bass) North Brittany (bass) and Spain/Med (sitting on the back of the boat drinking cold beer and fishing for golden mullet whilst the family soaked up the rays). I do have occasional use of a trailer for Phaeton too, but haven't found a reason to tow it yet. I would echo Adam's point and never jack up a trailer not attached to the tow vehicle (sorry about the double negative!) - even chocking the down wheel isn't a guarantee it won't pivot/spin. 2 ton trolley jack <

used to use a mini hydralic post that worked fine - now have a 2 ton hydralic from Macro (9.90 inc vat!)

Have used the g Force in 12lb mode and liked it a lot. At

Simple answer Rich is that whilst inserting a solid, or any other, tip will get you a rod it won't be rod you started with! Any repair will affect the flex action and untimately create a weak spot - this may not be the actual repair but one end or other of it. The examples of club members having rod failures at the point where the blanks had been in contact with the transom when running out to marks show how any weakness will get exploited - especially if you fish on the light side! Personaly I would get a Ron Thompson g-force 20lb for 34 squid or a team Normark 20lb from tacklebargins half price at 60 and get the Penn remade/re rung to what's left of the blank - at 6ft 9" it should be a nice powerfull rod. Of course if Paulj's contact can redo your Penn then go for it!

understood - I was mentally thinking around 2-3 inches! however I suspect you would be better off accepting it as a 50lb class rod and treating yourself to a ..........12-20 Conlon or equivelent.

Shame Brian - after all the work you have put into the boat, and given that she's such a good size for the local conditions. Have you thought of taking a winter berth somewhere else to enable you to have an extended season reasonably economically?

what an excellent catch - and nice an peacefull up there too no doubt

I know someone who has spent many hours trying in just that area................

possibly the format of the numbers - if they have been passed around it's likely they started life in one format (min/sec v dec.) (even a different datum) and have been re written. doesn't your plotter show a wreck on it's chart? if you wan't to pm me the wreck and numbers I can cross reference it against some data I have for you. if you know which way a wreck is actually facing then it's worth using your plotter to run a grid search across it but if you don't you are as likely to miss it as hit it even on a 100m square (which isn't big enough if the above errors have got in). If it's nice and big like this........ or this then you should of course just trip over it!

Which model and how much have you lost Rich? Generally I would have thought you could move the top 2-3 rings around a bit and end up with a slightly 'stronger' rod.

Oh you lot are a wag............ I don't hide my real name behind a profile - it's out in the open next to my posts! Suggestions for fields would include MMSI number (I know it's on the membership lists but as public information - MARS - it would probably be a good idea to have it here too). ............off to fill in new fields!

te........... I can't help wondering if the replacement of certain profile information with more relevant info wouldn't be a huge step forward? Location could for example be modified to 'usual fishing area' Interests to 'target species' and something/anything to 'boat name' please.......... realise the software might not be ours to mod, and that theres work even if we can, but we have made so much progress that to be able to include boat details name/size/engine in the profile would be another huge leap............

take 2 lengths from Kam and splice them together - I can give you chain that will suit from a few odd lengths I have lying around; and will splice it to your line if you wish - all for the price of a pint (well not the price the actual pint really)