Bob F

Cushdy is now in the Members Boat section. BF

Welcome aboard Gazza. ...wonder if he's any good with a fooball??? ...we'll be having Ten-Bellies on here next... BF

Gordon, yes the LED's will need an earth. Sorry, I thought I'd shown that at the club meeting. Glad the panel works. It was a nice panel. What's the problem with the VHF? How do you know it's not getting a signal? Are you in range of other VHF's or are you using a handheld to send a signal to it? BF

How did you get on Jack? BF

Gordon, What type of engine and controls do you have? On my Suzuki controls there is a signal that goes from the control box to the Trim meter. When the start key is moved to the IGNITION position (or START), it sends a signal to the trim meter to turn it on and allow the trim setting to be shown. I assume it is a 12V power signal. The same signal also goes to the tacho. It may be this. BF

Sounds about right. You can adjust the speed of your drift by altering the length of rope you have out. To speed up - pull rope in. To slow down - let more rope out. Who remembers what the optimum drift speed was?? Between 1-2 knts I think??? BF

Incidently, how long did she take to build, Pete? BF

A terrific looking boat, Pete. Your usual high quality finish. All those hours were worth the effort. Well done matey!!! Bob F.

Some members have recently been asking what sacrificial anodes are, why they are needed and where they are fitted. So, here's my attempt at trying to "simply??" explain them... The batteries fitted in your cars or boats are made of two different metal rods placed in water (distilled water. also called an electrolyte). When your boat and/or engine is placed in water you effectively have the same thing - two or more different metals placed in an electrolyte (sea water). So you have virtual batteries which cause a small electric current to flow. Part of the chemical reaction in a battery causes atoms from one of the metals rods to be removed, causing the metal to slowly be eaten away. This is always the metal rod which is the "anode" in the battery. The other metal rod (cathode) remains unaffected and does not get eaten away. So, when you have two different metals in sea water, one of those metals will assume the role of the anode and will slowly be eaten away. The other metal remains intact. It is extremely difficult to stop this reaction taking place, so instead of stopping it we use the reaction to protect the metals that we don't want to corrode. If you fit a type of metal that will always be the anode, it will corrode thus preventing the other metals corroding. When comparing two different metal types, the anode will always be the metal that is the least "Noble" in the "Periodic Table". This will only mean something to you if you remember any of your Physics or Chemistry at school. It's not important to know. Zinc is one of the least Noble metals, so it will tyically always assume the role of anode when compared with other metals that are fitted to our boats and engines. The "sacrificial anode" that is deliberately fitted on our boats is a piece of Zinc which will always assume the role of the anode compared to the other metals, so the Zinc slowly corrodes thus preventing the other metal pieces on your boat corroding. There, that was simple, wasn't it!!!??? So, what do these anodes look like and where are they fitted? There are many different shapes and sizes, but essentially they look like a small block of lead (it's Zinc of course). On outboards they are typically fitted on the underside of the mounting bracket and on the sides of the engine by the anti-cavitation plates. I'm not sure of the location of the anodes on inboard engines, but I believe they are placed near the propeller, near the shaft drive, and at various places around and on the engine block. You will often see the zinc metal blocks fitted with metal straps which connect to other metal areas. Needless to say, if your anodes have "rotted" away you need to replace them before other parts of you boat or engine start to disappear. If your boat is left in the water all the time, they typically need replacing every year. That's my take on it, anyway. cheers Bob F.

Splash-Out will be there. Sean, you have a PM. cheers BF

That'll be Shytalk, Dave. BF

Sounds like one that Dave would like to hear about. BF

Jack, you need some therapy.

I might be available as well Paul. I may be over at Adams on Sunday morning and so we could both come over together. BF

Paul had a problem with the steering cables on his 640 which took them a while to sort out. I guess they've learnt the lesson and are putting yours right aswell. May not be the same problem, though. By the way, what's happened to Paul? Haven't heard from him in a while and he wasn't at the meeting last night. BF

Hi Wedger. Yep, I'd be interested in trying your groundbait and giving it a write up. It will be interesting to see how the different boats get on with it. No problem with the pricing you've suggested. cheers Bob F

I've always had trouble with the really thin braids that are less than 30lb. They snap very easily on the slightest snag, even when using a mono leader. I will be using the slightly thicker braids when 30lb or below. BF

The Fullers really are a good lot, you know... Bob F(????)

Hi Fishfinger, I will email a PBSBAC Members Pack to you. Welcome aboard the forum. I see you've already made yourself at home. cheers Bob F

Was that a 2yr or 3 yr blink Charlie???

Always a chance of catching something, Barry. More chance than you've got sitting at home, anyway. Give it bash.

Dan, Tailor Spanola is an anagram...I think someone's been pulling your leg. BF

Welcome Pete! Bob F

Hi Scott!! Bob F

RSS??? BF