Bob F

Charlie, What is the make and model number of your plotter, VHF and FF? I'll see if I can download the manuals and have a look at the set up, if you want. I like doing that sort of thing. A crazy mother, I know, but I was born like it! Bob F.

The Conger article is about half finished. You can see it in the Species section of the web. Still under construction. Feedback welcome. Bob F.

Yes, please. Cheers James.

Mark Look at page 87 of your plotter manual. You need to connect Pin 6 (green wire) called NMEA OUT from your plotter to the NMEA INPUT pin on your VHF (not sure which VHF you have). Pin 2 from your plotter is the Power Ground wire which needs to be connected with the VHF ground or to your common bus bar. Then go to page 65 of the manual and follow the steps for setting up the input/output format (you will want NMEA IN/NMEA OUT). Use Port 1. Also on page 65, you then set up the NMEA OUTPUT to a setting, approrriate to the data type that your VHF needs to receive (see your VHF manual). NOTE: if the plotter is in SIMULATION MODE the VHF will not receive the GPS Data on the VHF screen. Lastly, when you have this all working, if you go to page 72 it will show you how to set up the DSC feature on your plotter, which activates automatically if someone in your vincinity sends out a DSC distress sigal. The map page will show you where the boat is that is sending out the distress and give you a plot to get there when you press the NAV button. Let me know if you need any help. Bob F

Mark, Give me a shout if you need a hand and I'll come and set it up for you. Bob F.

Nice, so I could buy it locally and get it serviced locally (if it ever needs it). Hmm...interesting.

Hayling Island sounds the best bet, then. Dave, which slip should we use? Bob F.

Thanks Pete. We'll give it a miss for March, then.

In the end, I think that is what pushed me to buy a new boat. Had too many disappointments with boats selling before I could see them, or getting really excited about a boat and then having a big let down when I went to see them. Either the boat was rubbish or the engine was rubbish. Have you tried what I suggested, Adam, which was to email some of the Boat Clubs to ask if any members are planning to sell their boats? It's can get you ahead of the game. The Lounge are compiling a list of the various clubs in the country, so you could use that. Good luck.

We could have a trip to Hayling or we could try a trip out of West Bay to target one of the wrecks in the Bay. I have the marks for the M2 (a sub) but I'm not sure how far the steam from West Bay will be (I'd have to have a look). Perhaps Pete could suggest some marks in that area, and how they will fish in March. Open to other ideas. Bob F.

Guys and girls, can you email me any photos of congers that you have. Needed for the species article on our web page. cheers Bob F.

Given the alledged problems Warrior have been having with stress fractures caused whilst towing, my thoughts would be to stay with the rubber rollers. Cheaper and easier to replace rollers than to repair a hull. Bob F.

Cheers, Mark.

Codfather, What do you think of the Navman 5100? I've been considering it myself. Just not sure about the spongy feel of the buttons on the whole of the Navman range. Where is the Service center for Navman?

Yep, good point Duncan. We'll bin the idea of purchasing a M-402 then. At least we know now. We've just got to put up with paying over the odds in the UK, as usual.

This is what the ICOM rep on the ybw had to say: This is a USA only set It is not approved anywhere in Europe. It can not be licensed in the UK Hope that helps Regards -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Jon Brooks Icom UK Ltd. 01227 741741 "Not approved" doesn't necessarily mean it will not work...? You might have a problem with repairs is the set goes faulty, though...

Interesting idea. How does brass compare cost wise to stainless steel? I guess it is softer than SS, so it wears a bit quicker and will be susceptable to a few knicks and burrs. But of course brass is used to the marine environment, so it will not corrode. Interesting...

Had a reply. Take a look at these two sites. http://www.scotjones.co.uk/radio/bands/radiobands.htm http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/marcomms/vhf.htm Looking through the important channels for UK use (6-17,37,67,70,72,73,77 and 80) there are only two that do not operate on the same frequency. Channel 15 on the US version does not have transmit Freq (no big deal because it's only used for onboard comms in the UK). Channel 80 in the US is a different freq than the UK. Channel 80 is a dual freq channel in the UK that is used for Marina's (e.g. calling a marina to book a berth). So, again this is not a problem for the use I have. DSC operates world wide, therefore, this shouldn't be a problem. So, as I see it, the US VHF radios should work here, for the channels we use for fishing and the coastguard. I've asked the guys in the Lounge forum to try to confirm if I've interpreted this correctly. So, wait a couple of days to see if they reply before you order one from the States. Bob F.

Paul I'll ask about the US version on the other forums. Bob F

Navman have a new DSC VHF coming out very soon for

Adam, I've sent you an email. Bob F.

A guy from another forum sent me these tips on customizing his Warrior. Thought it would be useful for you Warrior owners. An interesting insight into some problems he has seen. Done a few things, might be worthwhile. Rod racks is the first, though Warrior now offer them as well. There's two vertical strengtheners up the hull on each side that'll take a self-tapping screw. I've put simple rod racks onto these, made up from a central length of 2"x 4" with shaped MDF sides screwed to it. Keeps the excess rods/boat-hook out of the way and if you carefully shape the holders they'll hold rods in under way without resorting to bungee cords. As well as screwing the racks down, bed them on a layer of Sikaflex. That stuff is brilliant, never lets go! There's a drain plug to the underfloor space. If it fills up regularly with water, the most likely entry is the access hatch in the anchor well. Perennial problem with some boats. That hatch isn't needed, thoroughly seal it off with Sikaflex and pray your keel isn't rotting :-( Warrior very kindly put the grab rail at face height on the cuddy edge. Tape heavy rubber hose round it. Doesn't stop you being able to grab it but does save your teeth if you hit something or back off unexpectedly. If the grabrail is up there, then the sloping edge of the cuddy is free ( unless they've got a canopy fitted). Ideal place to bolt a length of drain pipe. Then you can park the landing nets up out of the way but ready to grab. Not a good plan to travel with them there though, they'll rip the pipe off eventually. A jubilee clip around the upper end stops it cracking in use. Luggage: always ends up heading for the stern. Starboard side is easy, bolt eyed hooks to the front bulkhead and the console and run a pair of bungee ropes between them. Stops all the stuff from bouncing off the seat onto the floor, works a treat. I can send digital pics if this isn't clear. Port side is harder as there's nothing to attach the bungees to at the rear. I'm just in the process of designing up a stainless hoop to do that. Isn't easy as the securing brackets will have to be screwed/rivetted and that's not very strong. Plus I don't want to compromise the passenger legroom (or break anyone's shin). Should be done by about April. Rod protection. Domestic pipe insulation (15mm) is dirt cheap. Tape it over the handrails and it protects rods and rod-rings. With 3 aboard and a pack of hounds coming through, all hell breaks loose and the spare rods can get well and truly battered. Anchor: if your guys haul from the deck area then they'll be getting some damage to the rubbing strip and the rail and bodywork just above it from the chain. Or anyway, I do because I run a 7.5kg Bruce plus plenty of chain and it's too much for the average crewman to hold clear of the paintwork. The rail is easy to protect. I split some narrow drain pipe lengthways, prised it over the 'anchor-hauling' section of rail and taped down the edges to stop it acting as a roller (that'd play hell with the rail finish in the long-term). The bodywork and rubbing strip are trickier. I've sourced some 0.75mm stainless sheet. That's just thin enough to bend around the rubber strip and bodywork and when it gets scratched to hell and gone, I'll just replace it. There's an issue with presenting 0.75mm metal edges where fingers can find them so I'll be bolting a 20mmx3mm strip over each edge to protect the pinkies. Keelbands: ridiculously expensive. Local steel merchant just sold me 4m of 50mm and 4m of 20mm marine grade (316) 3mm stainless strip for

It'll end up in tears or licenses for sea fishing...

Yes, this might be confusing some of you. The conversion program is not for use with the map web page that Duncan gave us. As Duncan says, the Euro web map is not in OSGB36 format. OSGB36 is just used for Ordinance Survey maps of Great Britain (as far as I know). So, the conversion program is used for converting your Ordinance Suyvey map references to the format used by our GPS's (WGS84). I assume Pete asked about this because he wants to convert some really hot OS marks that he has. ...and which he is going to share with us at the meeting tonight.