Wire Cable Advice Please

[jerry.shutter]

Thanks for your comments everyone, all good advice.

My concern is still the anchor hitting the bow roller, rather than it riding up over it following the chain. If it doesn’t work on my boat someone will be most welcome to try on there’s, that is when we can🙁

Hope to see you all soon, stay safe.

[plaicemat]

Would it not be possible to get someone to make a stainless steel guide to attach to your roller housing to direct the course of the anchor?

 

Terry.

[Steve S]

Well possibly Terry but it would also have to take account  bringing on board the business of the anchor, you might swap one problem for another. 

 

Another way to reduce the problem is a much large diameter roller, this could be made from bolting together rough cut kitchen cutting board blocks then turning ideally in lath or at a pinch on a pillar drill. The problem is there must be enough clearance to accommodate the increased radius of the roller.

 

On the whole I think we await the results of the S/S cable, clearly it works on some boats and as solutions go it is pretty simple to implement.

[Steve S]

Jerry, the S/S cable alongside the anchor,  does it work ok?

 

 

[Maverick Martin]

Yes I would also like to know before having mine made

[jerry.shutter]

Sorry we have had no electric/internet for 48hrs😡😡

 

Ok, my home made SS wire trip DID work, however the shrink tube/wrap came adrift quickly, this could of been remedied but I wasn’t happy with the SS u bolts which were very close to catching when coming to rest on the fore deck.

 

Now I have cut a piece of chain two inches longer than the spine of the Bruce. I have put the SS swivel back. I cable tie the chain half way down the bottom of the spine and cable tie the point end of the anchor.

This has worked well, it still needs some polish but is working. When I next get to the boat I will take some pictures as it’s difficult to describe.

 

I still believe a larger front roller might sort the problem.

[Jim]

 

 

 

I posted this drawing back in 2017.

 

Just add dimensions and you'll have a working drawing.

 

Jim

 

Bow Roller.pdf

[jerry.shutter]

Having now used the anchor a couple of times it is working much better than it has done previously but still not 100%🙄

A little more tweaking and I hope I will sort it, I might try and get a hole drilled on the “bottom” of the anchor, enough to keep the chain cable tie underneath so it runs up over the roller ALL the time.

The first photo is the wire, I could silver solder the ends but just concerned about the u bolts, catching and or slipping.

The second two show the present set up with chain and swivel.

If I could keep the chain running along the bottom of the “shank” of the anchor I feel sure it will work.

[Rob]

I'd say you need to crimp that cable, just need the right size crimp and hydraulic crimper, then do away with the bolt on crimp - but for testing the bolt on is ideal.

R

[great white]

Hi All

 

Any decent rigger should be able to crimp up the hard eyes on your SS wire cable. they do that all the time for stays for masts.

 

XP rigging 

Rig Shop etc

[Steve S]

I've had a cable made up, 8mm wire, 60cm by Ocean Rigging at Lymington Yacht Haven, I called them up with the request and an hour later the cable was ready to be picked up, £32. Breaking strain is approx 3.5 tonnes, more than enough. I'm giving them a shout as I was well impressed.

 

It was fitted last night, after 8 or so lifts with the anchor hanging in various positions underneath it appears to work everytime, the anchor when lifted slowly (I didn't try fast) rotates to the required position as the cable bends round the roller; no hint on any catching of the anchor by the roller causing the trip to break. An extended test in real at sea conditions is required to know it's a 100% fix.

 

 

 

 

Notes:

 

I may remove the shackle between the cable and swivel later, the cable will fit into the swivel.

The shackles still needs to be moused.

The orange rope is a floater it is to allow the anchor to the retrieved shank first after tripping.

The heavy duty copper crimp edge was filed smooth to reduce chafe on the rope trip.

The cable tie round the cable near the rope trip end does nothing, I will remove it.

I'd say the cable it just long enough, it could have been made a bit longer.

The cable is attached to the bottom of the anchor shank, this is important for the anchor to rotate into position as the cable bend round the roller.

The random seeming shackel on the right will have a short rope attached to the anchor to stop the anchor falling into the water while underway (eeek!) in the event of a windlass fail.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Jim]

Very nice Steve.

Tidy looking job.

 

[great white]

Glad a rigger could help sort you out Steve

[jerry.shutter]

Well done Steve, has your bow roller got a “channel or grove” cut in it or is it smooth concave face?

I think my attempts cost me at least £60 so good for you🙄🙄🤣🤣

 

[Steve S]

It has a groove Jerry.

[jerry.shutter]

Thankyou for spelling correction!  

Ok mine has also, I think I am winning but not 100% like you!

[Maverick Martin]

Just a thought, we have all been going down the cable theory route but do you think chain might work instead of wire?

After all we are only trying to get a swivel to turn the anchor the right way

 

BTW Charlie called in to see XP rigging and they were not interested although he did point me elsewhere

[Steve S]

Chain was what I was using Martin, it didn't work for me. Rope might work and easy to try.

I'm sticking with the wire now, it works, no need for me to change unless I encounter some problem with it.

[jerry.shutter]

I feel certain the chain will work, especially if I can drill a hole big enough to take a cable tie half way down the shank of the anchor ( just to tight to spend more money at the moment!!)

My biggest problem is the anchor sits the right way with the swivel, it is the “toe” or point of the anchor hits the roller and trips it then, so IF I can fix the chain on the underside of the anchor it will come in every time.

I assumed this was the same issue we all have?

[Steve S]

Yes that's the issue I had Jerry.

 

The thing about chain attached at the bottom for me was it did work mostly, but when it didn't the first thing I knew about it was a snapped trip and the anchor swinging around bashing the boat. So as I wanted something to work 100% (99% would be ok) I took to lifting the last bit by hand, that was fine except when it was rough it wasn't ideal. 

 

 

[2006holmwood]

Pete at the chandlers in Parkstone Yacht Club can supply wire and crimp as req.

he did one for Nigel on Lady V, works every time.

[great white]

Surprised XP Rigging could not do it, but perhaps they are overbooked.

 

You may need to check with Pete at Quay West, he is on his own at the Chandlers at the moment.

[Maverick Martin]

They could have Charlie but he kept muttering about how expensive it would be and that it would cost lots and they were busy and and, so I got the impression he wasn't interested.  I'm guessing he saw I had work clothes on and judged I couldn't afford his services, his loss someone else's gain 

[mw]

I tried it with chain and zip tied to the swivel  3 zip tied on the anchor still broke every time, tried strong orange thin rope

still broke so back to just using swivel 

Did catch a bass on bread looking to catch a mullet though

mw

[Jim]

6 hours ago, Maverick said:

They could have Charlie but he kept muttering about how expensive it would be and that it would cost lots and they were busy and and, so I got the impression he wasn't interested.  I'm guessing he saw I had work clothes on and judged I couldn't afford his services, his loss someone else's gain 

Many salesmen have fallen foul of me for that one Martin.