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Anti-foul


Coddy
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That may have slowed her down a tad mate

 

 

It looks like she was probably pressure cleaned before launching and all the toxins washed out of the old antifouling.

 

I bet you will not believe the differance when she goes back in, what antifouling are you going to use?

 

Charlie

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Dave,

 

 

Ever thought of doing a bottom scrape and antifoul article on your website.

 

Looks like you've got all the evidence needed here..

 

 

You never know we might even be able to see a write up and Photos of

Lady C... .Before and after etc.

 

 

If that mess is what Lurks in Holes Bay??.........Scary

Charlie may be right looks like you've been running with Zero Antifoul

 

There have been quite a few tests on antifoul paint in the press I may be able to dig one out and email you before you purchase.

 

PeteG

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Dave

Amazing how a grass skirt and a few barneys slows you down blink.gif

 

Any longer in the water, and you'd have stuck fast to the bottom.

 

I can recommend once you get to the paint level, the use of a sanding block on a pole, fixed with an open mesh sanding gauze. Theyre Magic!

 

Hope you get it sorted.

 

Paul

 

 

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Well, it only took 1.5hrs to clean 95% of the growth off on Friday night, apart from some squirty type weed it came off in sheets complete with the majority of barnicals. smile.gif

 

With three of us down in the yard by 8.45am we soon had the gazibo over the deck and sides and final bit of scapping was done.

As most of you have pointed out there was very little anti-foul left and in fact it was just the old GRP showing in many places.

 

Managed to clean down the leg and paint that up with primer and one coat of anti-foul, prop came off with no problems, yipee, as I was expecting it to be stuck on. The prop anode had gone completly and someone had painted over the transom one so it was still as good as new!! huh.gif

 

Sunday it is another coat on the bottom and the bootline to add plus refit the transducer. Going to re-position this as it was in disturbed water at anything over 8kts.

Monday morning she has got to go back in. This just leaves the hull above the water line to rub down and repaint plus the topside at a later date.

 

So hopefuly by the end of summer (what summer I know) she will look good for the winter. wink.gif

 

user posted image

 

What she looks like after one coat

 

Coddy

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Well all done by lunch time and the rain.

Decided not to add a boot line at this time until the rest of the hull is painted to see how it looks.

 

To do the hull all I need to do is borrow a trailer and I am sure we can get her ready and painted and be back in the water over a week-end.

 

Anyway, here are a couple of pictures of the finished hull. The leg and prop has had a couple of top coats as have the trim tabs plus the sounder transducer so hopefuly the weed growth shoud be drasticly reduced.

 

user posted image

 

user posted image

 

Leg before cleaning

 

user posted image

 

Leg after

 

user posted image

 

If anyone is interested I have used International Crusier Uno antifoul, and Trilux antifoul on the leg and any metalwork. Not the cheapest but if International is good enough for the RNLI it should be ok for me! wink.gif

 

Just got to wait for the Jabsco pump to come back from being overhauled and I can then try her out. laugh.gif

 

Coddy

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Edited by Coddy
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Dave,

 

I agree with Smallfry you've done good in your limited time

 

Just A Couple of queries .

 

1. Can't see any anodes fitted to the Trim Tabs

 

2. You haven't painted over the anode on the Leg have you?

 

 

Peteg

Hi Pete

 

Don't worry new anodes were fitted to each trim tab and leg and not painted over. wink.gif

 

The prop anode was completly gone ohmy.gif and someone previously had painted over the transom anode so it was still in perfect condition! This has been cleaned and re-installed.

 

With the warm water (and grotty state) of Hole Bay I hope these anodes last the year! wink.gif

 

At least I have found out which Volvo leg I have, a 275 which is apparantly not a common beast. It seems it is part 290 and part 270. Just got to see if I can find some transfers now to give it a smarter look.

 

Coddy

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Dave

Pretty much, my trailer is sitting in the yard doing nothing all summer (Now that all my jobs are done). You are welcome to borrow if you need to haul out again, if you think it will fit.

 

Paul

Hi Paul

 

Meant to have a word at the meeting.

 

Thanks for the offer but I think my tub may be a tad too heavy for your trailer at around 2tonnes!

I suspect you may have single wheels and I think it will need double wheels.

 

Don't fancy bending your nice trailer! wink.gif

 

Coddy

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If anyone is interested I have used International Crusier Uno antifoul, and Trilux antifoul on the leg and any metalwork.

Did you find the trilux difficult to get a decent thickness on? I've used it to paint my props, and I found subsequent coats softened the ones below so it was impossible to build up any thickness.

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Hi Mark

 

I have not used the boat yet so don't know how the Trilux works.

 

Seemed to go on ok and gave everything we could get to a couple of coats plus primer.

I will advise how it lasts.

 

With my Jabsco pump I ended up having to get a new one and found the correct model, now obsolete, at Lancing Marine at a bargin price (compared to Jabsco!). Went to start the engine and both batteries were flat so staill waiting to run her up and try her out! weep.gif

 

Might be able to get out for the lure comp subject to the bl@@dy weather!

 

Coddy

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Edited by Coddy
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Hi Lads,

I have been following this thread with intrest and would like to enquire what make /type of antifouling would you recommend for my Pirate 21 which is a 40 knt + craft, although 30 knts is about the limit I push it.......Last years International product applied, wore off in record time. I keep the boat at Tuckton which is very low in salinity and I have been told that normal saltwater antifoul coatings do no work in these type of conditions and infact can have problems with adhesion.

It appears every anifouling' specialist' has a diffrent opinion!

Tomo

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Tomo

 

I had international interspeed on the hull and trilux on the leg

 

the boat came out recently and the hull was much cleaner than the leg, but that could be effected by the leg catching more UV light and being in the warmer surface water.

 

Not sure what to advise for reduced salinity areas, but have you also considered what anodes to fit, I believe there are different ones for fresh and salt water.

 

Charlie

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Have used International antifouls for about 20 years now, and have been generally happy with them.

 

The current Cruiser on "Frisky" was applied last Spring (2007), and due to various factors, we didn't manage to haul out over the Winter or Spring. We applied a couple of coats of antifoul over the old stuff that really should be taken off sometime.

 

The results were good for 2007, but we noticed a line of green ribbon weed at the join to the boot-topping (Trilux) in early Spring.

 

We had just a couple of trips in late Spring when growth was minimal, but on our recent holidays we noticed the through-hull log had stopped working, and the boat felt sluggish on the way over - GPS speed over the ground confirmed this. I withdrew and cleaned the log in Ste Pete, finding it heavily fouled, and replaced it without the usual Trilux, to get me through the holiday.

 

The boat still seemed slow, and in Trebeurden drastic measures were needed. George and I scrubbed from the dinghy as best as we could to start off. Then, I used cable ties to attach a couple of old "fish cloths" to an old rope, and Carol and I stood on either side of the hull and "see-sawed" the rope and cloths the whole length and width of the hull as best we could. Huge clouds of brown slime and sludge came free with blue clouds afterwards as we got to the antifoul, but the keel felt rough snagging the cloth, and is probably covered in barnacles, or the makings of a decent moules/frites.

 

Summary: Cruiser is fine for one season on a slow displacement boat. For two seasons afloat, or a planing hull, I think I'd consider stronger antifouls such as Micron or harder ones designed for faster boats. Boot-toppings such as Trilux are much harder than erodable antifouls, and are good for the increased turbulence around waterlines for one season, and scrub up well for a second. The join of anti-foul to boot-topping has lots of turbulence, and is susceptible to weeding.

 

Hope this is of some help to members.

 

Mike

 

 

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I have been following this thread with intrest and would like to enquire what make /type of antifouling would you recommend for my Pirate 21

I have Micron Optima on mine - I chose an eroding antifoul as I don't like the idea of paint buildup. It's waterbased which makes it dead easy to apply and clean up afterwards. It is incredibly soft (like kiddie's poster paint), you can literally 'sand it down' with a sponge!! It does work very well on the under-hull surfaces if you use the boat regularly, but you need at least 4 coats to start with. It is not the right thing to use on the transom or waterline though, as these areas need scrubbing (no water movement to get rid of the weed) and all you do is scrub it off. If I were starting from scratch I'd give the whole hull a couple of coats of Gelshield, then a couple of coats of a hard antifoul compatible with optima, then put optima on top afterwards.

A 2.5l tin gives enough coats for a year's use for me - it needs to be completely dry before immersion though, as will all coatings, read the tin! I change colour every year so I can see where it's worn off. This is a pic of mine when it came out in summer last year - you can see mullet feeding scrapes on the transom, and how the underside of the hull is weed free compared to the waterline 'beard'.

user posted image

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I keep my boat at Wareham, which although tidal is fresh water, I applied black International Interspeed Ultra with white Trilux to the outdrive and boot topping in June 2005. I've just brought the boat home after 3 years afloat and all it had on the hull and outdrive was a thin coat of slime.

As for anodes, I've got zinc ones fitted which go black in fresh water and don't really do much but I've not noticed any corrosion so I'm not worried. I've been told that magnesium anodes are recommended for fresh water, but as I use the boat in salt water they probably wouldn't last five minutes.

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Brian

 

Without wish any ill or tempting fate, I'd double check and double check again that your boat is all OK.

3 years afloat without any protection from anodes, even in an area that won't have much electrolysis is a heck of a long time.

 

Quite often you won't be able to physicaly see a lot and the first you'll know is when part of a prop drops off. Alternatively, it would only have taken a bit of fishing line around the prop to have worked it's way up and through the seals allowing water into the gear box.

 

Boats should come out at least once a year for the correct anodes to be replaced, for a fresh coat of antifoul and, of course, to give the hull a bit of a breather from sitting in water all of it's life. Allowing the hull to dry will dramtically reduce the risks of osmosis.

In addition, the leg should be fully serviced every other year, more often depending on hours.

 

I hope yours is all OK, 3 years is a long time.

 

Tom

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