duncan

can't win - (1) get out more - right I am off fishing then.......... (2) get back here................ can't fish with 'em / can't live without them

spares / servicing via a guy up north - advertises in magazines as penn reel spares or something and is world renown - lot of internationals get set in to him for annual service apparantly. I needed a couple of bars, 2 metal rigs for side plates and a machine screw for my old beachmaster (similar story and nostalger) - sorted in 48 hrs and seemed reasonable part prices. Will try and dig out details. Didn't take credit cards! ring on - Penn UK Servicing Centre - Tel / Fax 01386 552 949

1. No 2. Depends on the depth and what you are fishing for - generally I would load 150m of heavier braid over another 200m of cheap nylon backing line. 3. Match to rod plus about 10lb but if fishing lighter/thinner braids then about 20ft of hard nylon leader will help tackle losses. I aim to use 23lb on a 15lb rod; 60lb on a 50lb rod and 35 on a 30lb one. 30-40 is common but many use 60-80 for conger!

What was / is the reel Adam? Tempted to guess at an Okuma LD - TA series?

lol at least you admit it! and thanks for the great link - good stuff.

np Adam - sry I was a bit short in my repost yesterday too; things a little heated! it is the wish to enjoy and appreciate the touches we can add to our boats that puts me off any long project again. I estimate it took me 40 hrs in total replacing my (already knoackered) ply gunwale inserts with solid iroko. If I was actually on a build project know I just wouldn't have those 40 hours spare!

plaicemat - the link at the start of the thread is for the braid you refer to; and I also believe it to be the best 'bargin' braid offer out there as I posted. martin - yep found myself chatting to him between beer in the Mariner and lunch in the Jazz Club next door. Thank you for the steer. Needless to say SWMBO was facinated as to why I needed so much sewing thread and singularily unimpressed by the saving I had negotiated!

TACKLE REQUIREMENTS To cover the varied aspects of tackle requirements in any detail would require a whole chapter in a book. I will therefore describe the main items of tackle, that are most commonly used for bait fishing from a static or drifting boat, which is the predominate method used to catch porbeagles in the UK. Rods There are a number of different types of rods that can be used; based on the line-class system. Rods with line-class ratings of 30lb class or below are what may be described as light-line fishing. I generally do not fish with such light tackle, preferring heavier gear to subdue any fish I encounter, as quickly as possible. Therefore, most of my fishing utilizes 50lb class tackle, and this will land most fish that you will generally encounter within a reasonable time. There are a lot of quality rods in the 50lb line-class bracket on the market to choose from. Most of the large tackle manufacturers such as Penn, Daiwa, Shimano and Star Rods of the USA supply rods to suit most bait fishing applications. I would avoid the 'pokers' that are available, and choose a rod that has some give in the top section, a lot of back-bone in the mid section and which locks at the butt section to enable the fish to be pumped up to the surface. Rods with a fibreglass/carbon mix, is generally considered a good material in the right ratio, as this provides both strength and lightness. Rod lengths of about 7.5 to 8 feet is about the right length of rod to use. Reels Again, the major tackle manufacturers supply reels to suit porbeagle shark fishing applications. Reels such as the Penn Senator size 6/0, Daiwa Sealine size 450 to 600, Shimano Tiagra size 4/0 have stood the test of time and have suitable line capacities of about 500 yards of 50lb line. The Fin-Nor Ahab and Big Game trolling reels also 'fit the bill', however, they are rather expensive. It doesn't really matter whether the drag is a star or lever drag system, but most people prefer the convenience of the lever drag for rapid change of pressure during the fight. Lines Monofilament lines are the type to use for porbeagle shark fishing. A good quality line from the reputable fishing tackle manufacturers should be used. Lines such as Berkley, Ande, Stren and Maxima are good quality makes, and if you are interested in line class records the Ande brand is pre-tested to ensure that it breaks at or below its stated breaking strain. Most fishing applications will require the use of 50 & 80lb line class. However, some anglers like the challenge of light line fishing in the 12, 16, 20 & 30lb classes. Hooks, Swivels, Rubbing Trace and Wire Traces Hooks in the 8/0,10/0 and 12/0 sizes are the ones most applicable for porbeagle shark fishing. Mustad hooks manufacture three types of hook that are suitable. These are the Seamaster, Sea Demon and the O'Shaughnessy. The rubbing trace should be monofilament line of approximately 250-300lb breaking strain. The length of the rubbing trace should not exceed 30 feet, if you're interested in line class records in 30lb class and above. A length of 15 feet is more generally used, and is used to prevent the porbeagle's extremely abrasive skin from cutting through the main line, as they frequently 'twist up the line' during the fight. The rubbing trace can also be 'grabbed' by your 'fishing partner' when the porbeagle is brought along side of the boat. The biting trace should be a seven-strand, flexible, kink resistant wire similar to the type used on a motor cycle brake system. This should have a length of about 4 to 5 feet with an overall diameter of about 2 to 3mm. Swivels should be of the very best quality, and the Sampo ball bearing swivel in the 500lb breaking strain size is perhaps the best that is readily available. you want more???

woa..... doesn't translate into using any dictionary I have ever seen! I absolutely agree with the point you make re quality as well as personalisation - but it comes at a huge price in terms of time.

it's that last part Charlie - if you donlt have any other calls on your time, ie it becomes your hobby, then you might be OK.....unless of course you are retired, have the skills and want to do something all day, everyday........! Other don't are (1) space - has to have dedicated space that doesn't conflict ever! (2) financial partnerships (other than marriage) - don't. Someone has to own the costs, and the boat, all the way through to the finish. Friendships just won't survive the demands otherwise - priorities change etc. All of the above assumes a 'big job' of course. If you taking on a big rebuild over a winter they don't apply - but as Jack says ignore the first few estimates of time required (or something like that!).

Once upon a time 2 boys bought a 26ft hull and deck to build and go off round the world (sail) Over 6 years later one went...........the other had become settled and started a family. It was interesting rather than fun; more about a hobby and doing it your way than saving money. With modular building, it doesn't make a lot of sense to finish off a boat either - it's a damm sight easier to fit electronics, engines, plumbing and electrics before the hull and deck are sealed up! Even woodworking will have a proffessional with a fully fitted workshop producing things in such a fraction of the time that any real savings evaporate. Earn the money then spend it. Maintenance is however a slightly different proposition as it goes hand in hand with understanding your machine sufficiently to operate and solve problems.

As Adam says - mid channel and increasing evidece that they base themselves on wrecks. This may well be conjecture (ie they are top of the food chain so it makes sense that they would do so) but has been written up since the offshore wrecking really got going (with the advent of Decca). Seem to remember that Newhaven skipper who wrote the Book - the art of wreck fishing - including reference to Porgies. Couple of references each year it the mags to unwelcome visitors to offshore wrecking trips Poole skippers report them as well Interesting discussion with one about 'why don't you target them?' - answer - 1 guy gets hooked up for a couple of hours; great for him but the others loose interest pretty fast and want to get back to fishing! In a sense I'd probably feel the same - if conditions were good enough to be out there I would want to fish a wreck rather than deliberately drift for shark but, were one to appear when I was out there the rod would certainly be rigged and over the side in minutes!

you would appear to have to delete them one by one - which whilst a pain is a feature I would actually like! Neither of my plotters suports this and I have to actuall save a track as a route to retain it alone. additioanlly you an simply switch of the diplay of the track (s) and will get a clear screen back but I would delete the old ones you dont want as routes and start again. Hope this helps

you wait unitl you get the bill for turning her back over!

Had a close up look at Fladden's new Maximmus Solid Carbon range - if memory serves, and Stella permits, I sort of recall a 10-20/20-40/20-50. As much as you can get a picture the 20-40 would seems to be the one, and I really do mean 1! With the exception of uptiding and flyfishing it would seem more of a 6-50lb class rod........... I realise this sounds stupid but ...... Have a sneaking suspicion they will be hard to get hold off

thanks to all - ended up with 1800m of Whiplash pro @ 0.06mm / 23lb test. realise I am going to have to be carefull with it...........

thanks Adam I think I had some samples of this adn the Ghost green was the tightest but they were all pretty loose weave. However going though it all the new Climax micro braid at 19lb / o.o6mm looks very interesting (if you can find/see it!)

generally it's the weight and the tide more than the fish. Drifting a carp rod (21/2 - 3TC) might/would handle it but 2lb of lead in 100ft of water with 1.6knots of tide and you will suffer!

wow - i wasn't expecting to compromise on BS! maybe a bit on diameter, accept oval and the feel might not be brilliant but I thought basic BS was BS (accepting knotting issues etc)

I know we had a thread last year on the top end braids, with the whiplash and fireline boys doing battle with words and technical specifications...... but I am simply looking to replace old mono on a number of FS and load a couple of spare multis so I am happy to compromise on line diameter/shape for quantity.... Best I could find is 1000m / 20.9lb / 0.14mm / 29 squid Anyone got a better suggestion hidden in their favorites?

absolutely agree that if you have 100 and not a penny more the best deal would be the one you highlight (although I would try and get the 30L with the 20/30 downtide rod)

Paul, For effectively 20 a time I think they are magic! Playing around in the garden test curve is around 5lb and they should handle a 2lb lead if needed. V-light to hold. 9 nice lined rings. If I could find any digital camera that worked I would post some detail pics. I am certainly hanging on to one of them to use this season. By a slip (or two) of my finger I also received both the 12 and 20lb Normarks which I can see becoming my favoured pair right through the summer. All were ordered through the link.

Glasgow Angling Centre RT/Okuma deals here Seems a bit obscure that you get the level wind with the uptider but not the downtider - what a difference a 5'er makes! Pair of 20/30's with 30's and postage will be pretty spot on the ton. Just don't think you can compare these reels strengthwise though - smooth and corrosion resistant but they just don't have either the frame or internals for hard work.

buying new reels (strong) will be the problem within that price range - If you can stretch a little I would buy the following from tacklebargins (link on site here somewhere) 2 x Fladden Chieftan Wrecker 5/0 Boat Multiplier @ 50 a pop 2 x Fladden 15-30lb Charter Specials @ 30 the pair plus about 10 postage this will do you for conger, cod, rays, ling and the rods are sensitive enough for pollack etc I bought 4 of the rods a month back and was surprised at the quality - Rich is having 1 and the other 2 were for someone wanting exactly the same as yourself. (and 1 left over for me........... ) like everything else this is only a personal opinion

wedger - would definitely like to try some in late April - happy to take a few members out one day for a 'heavy session' using a fair bit of the stuff - and also despite your offer, I am sure we could make a contribution. You could of course come out yourself!