Bob F

Mark B mentioned that it could be a build up of salt crystals in the block if the previous owner didn't flush the motor properly. Very probable seeing that the boat was moored. Apparently, there is some sort of special fluid (an acid) that you can use to flush out the block, but you must quickly flush out with fresh water to prevent too much erosion in the block.

Whippet, I assume you remove the plotter after each trip. So you will be connecting and disconnecting the aerial lead each time. If it worked on Friday but not on Saturday it suggests again that there is something wrong with the aerial connection, either in the plug itself, the cable, or the connection in the plotter. It is usually the connector that has a problem. Have you taken it apart and had a look? A few things can cause a problem: - corrosion or salt crystals inside the plug that prevents a proper earth. - corrosion or salt crystals on the center pin which prevents a proper connection. - the center pin is not properly soldered to the central wire of the coax cable. - a short from earth to the central pin, usually caused by stray strands of the copper earth braid that surrounds the cable. Bob F.

NB, Rich, We'll put your names down as crew for any spare slots. Haven't got the full list of boats yet. We normally come in around 4-5pm, but we'll confirm this nearer the day. Bob F.

Yep, they just tap out. Use a piece of wood to protect the metal and then tap it with a hammer at 9'oclock and 3 o'clock and it will slowly ease out.

But why do you want to keep the Furuno GPS AND the new Garmin Plotter??? Your new Garmin Plotter has a more accurate and up-to-date GPS unit and better display options. I'd remove the Furuno unit and either use the Furuno aerial or swap it for the Garmin aerial. You might be able to leave the aerial cable in place and just reconnect both ends. Then there is no need to weld on a new bracket. Sell the Furuno on eBay. You don't need it.

The overheating on my Suzuki was due to a faulty thermostat. But this only happened after 20-30 mins of idling, and could be reproduced using the mufflers. Bob F.

Yep, both the height of the aerial and the power of the transmitter are the important factors. A VHF signal is "line of sight", so the higher the aerial, the further you will be able to transmit and receive signals. Handhelds are typically limited to around 5 watts for a few reasons, 1) 5 watts uses considerably less power than 25 watts, therefore your battery will last longer, 2) there is little need to have 25 watts on a handheld because the typical aerial height restricts the distance the signal can travel anyway, 3) I wouldn't like the idea of 25watts of VHF signal being blasted into my brain when it's right by my ear. If you have to use a handheld, go for a model where you can plug in an external aerial that is fixed to a high point on your boat. But if your budget allows, and you have sufficient protection from the elements, I'd always go for the fixed unit. DSC is an important consideration. Don't buy a VHF unit unless it has full DSC or is DSC compatible (i.e. you can buy a DSC controller later to upgrade it). Non-DSC VHF's will be virtually obsolete in a few years time when the Coastguard start reducing the monitoring of channel 16. This will not happen for a couple of years yet, but it's worth protecting your investment. You can buy an ICOM DSC compatible unit for around

Well, it's obvious isn't???? In the Danish language the word "color" means "black and white". Hope it all goes well Adam. Bloody frustrating though. Good luck.

So, we wont be seeing you for another year then Mike. Good luck with the new purchase. Sounds like "buyers remorse" has set in though. A big project, but a very rewarding one. Look forward to seeing her maiden voyage. cheers Bob F

Nice tip. Cheers.

A cracking report, Mike. Had tears in me eyes.

See? I just don't understand it. We make up these beautiful songs for the young ladies and they still don't appreciate us or our needs...

Worth knowing. Thanks Rich.

Either weekend is ok with me.

Did quite well today, but not as well as Peter's mates. They picked up some good plotter bargains. Anyway, I got: Fladen Floatation Suit for young Robert -

Welcome aboard Billy.

BB My bream rig usually consists of a 2 hook patternoster using small white plastic booms and traces of only 12". One hook is bare and the other has beads and sequins. Last year both hooks caught about the same amount of bream. Hook size varies from size 4 upto 2/0 if I want to keep the smaller fish away (doesn't always help though, they're greedy buggers). Started using circle hooks for bream last year and they worked really well once I got used to not striking and just lifting into the fish instead. Bait is strips of squid, but the biggest bream came to squid heads and tenticles. Bob F.

Alan, I may be wrong, but I don't think C-Map are manufacturers of any electronic instruments. They only produce the charts that are used by plotters, etc. I'm pretty sure C-MAP did not make your Plotter. The advert only refers to C-MAP because that is the type of software charts that the Vision Plotter uses. C-MAP charts are used in Lowrance, Standard Horizon and Plastimo plotters, amung others. There used to be a company called Vision that made GPS units but they are no longer in busines, so there's no chance of finding their wed site and downloading a manual that might give the pin out for the connector. I found out that if the dealers were unable to repair the Vision instruments they used to send them to a repair center in Dorset. The details are: The Service Centre (Trade Only) Mrs A Eaton Maritime House The Leanne Business Centre Sandford Lane, Wareham Dorset BH20 4DY Tel: 01929 554558 Fax: 01929 554559 info@marineelectronicservices.com Although it says they only deal with the trade it would be worth a call to see if they would give you the pin out details. Failing that, you'll have to wait until you can get on your boat and search for the 12v on your connector with a meter. Good luck. Bob F.

Sounds like a good approach, Alan. Shame you can't find the 12v and earth pins to power up the unit at home. I can't find anything on a Vision 07 chartplotter on the web. Does this manufacturer have a home page? Yes, guests can post on our forum, but some sections are restricted to members only. cheers Bob F.

Alan, I don't know of anyone that has one of these. Others might know in the club. Come on chaps. Anyway, it does sound like it's an antenna problem. I assume it uses an external antenna. I suppose you have checked your antenna plug. The connection inside very often becomes disconnected or has not been soldered. Where are you located? I could check it for anything that is wrong with the basic set up. Depending on the connector it could be worth just plugging it into someone elses antenna. It doesn't have to be the exact same make or model. It will not work at its optimum performance but should at least get some sort of signal. Bob F

I did do a similar repair many years ago on a fly rod. Inserted a tapered rod and then glued it back together. It worked OK but obviously affected the rod action, especially as it was a fly rod. One of my cheap Ron Thompsons snapped in have last year, but I just bonned that because they are disposable. I think I would appempt the repair, after all there's nothing to loose, right?

It's too easy to forget to put the bung in. The manfacturers ought to modify the drain so that the plug can be fitted from the inside. I'm going to be adding some kind of bung to my list of onboard spares. A bung that can be stuffed into the drain hole from inside the boat.

My guess is that it's a fuel related problem. I had the same thing on my new aux when it had been left unused for over 6 months. The oil mixed with the fuel (assuming you have two stroke) becomes separated when left for a long time and starts to clog pipes and valves and filters with a horrible green sludge. This is expecially the case with a relatively new motor like yours which will be running on a larger oil/fuel mixture during the running in period. Flush out any old fuel from the carb, float tank, pipe, filters, etc. And then try with new fuel after cleaning the plugs. But best of all, take up Mike's kind offer and take it over to him. It will be worth it just to learn the basics from him. Be careful if he offers you a glass on Rose Wine, though. It's addictive stuff. Bob F

Not an easy one to vote on for me. I depends on the species and all sorts of other variables like the sexual maturity of the fish, whether it is full of roe, etc. I have mixed feelings about a few big cod that are shown in this months BFM. All seemed to be full of roe. One guy released his best ever 28lber for this very reason, the others appear to have kept theirs. I couldn't bring myself to knowingly keep a large cod or bass that was full of roe. The main reason for releasing a large specimen would be to allow it to continue spawning, but this assumes that it has not passed its sexual maturity. Personally, I don't know enough about the sexual maturity of the various species to make an informed decision about releasing it on these grounds. The golden rule for me is to release it if it is not going to be eaten. I'd even give up a British Record if it meant killing the fish for no other reason. But each to their own.

Same thing happens to me when I get moist around the crutch... I'll get me coat. Thanks for the giggle Adam.