Newboy

You mean I can't stick the probes into any old 240v wall sockets? Well that's half the fun down the drain. Just went and had a look at the wiring, I unplugged the righthand side light cluster and conducted the test between the socket and the 7 connecters. Here are the results which show a resistance, i.e., the needles moves up the scale. Blue wire to no 1 and no 2 at socket White wire to 1,2,3,6 and 7 Red wire to 1,2,3,6 and 7 Plus all coloured wire to their respectives at the socket. 1=yellow, 2=blue, 3= white, 4= green, 5= brown, 6= red and 7= black. I am sure there should be no reading between blue wire and no 1(yellow), white wire to 1,2,6 or 7, nor red wire to 1,2,3 or 7. Am I correct at saying somewhere inside the socket the terminals are mostly shorted out?

I'm a little confused with the Omega thingy, if I make the 2 probes touch, or any metal objects, i.e., shorting them, the needle moves up. So if it's not testing a circuit, what is it measuring, the resistance of the metal objects? To re-cap; I want to 'see' that power is coming from the car tow bar, to do this, I stick the black from the meter to the white cable (centre one I believe) on the plug and red thru the remaining 6 cables, each one should gives a reading (provided the lights are switched on) if I use DCV 50, right? Am I still making sense?

We have a bit here yesterday and a little today, but it can't quite decide if it wants to stay or no My kids will live a few inches if the white stuff.

I was reading something on boat listing to one side at speed over @iboats, and apparently (sometimes) foils can make a boat list to one side.

Thanks everyone, will give it a go this weekend, when and if the snow melts.....

The trailer board has no structural function on the trailer, it's made from the same galvanised metal as the trailer and it clips onto 2 metal claws at the rear. The trailer board has a socket for the 7 core cable to be pluged in just like the elec point next to the tow bar. So all I do at launch is remove the board but leave the cable on the trailer as it's threaded thru the frame. The reason I want it sorted, is at the moment, I have to hang a plastic trailerboard over the outboard and it isn't very tidy. The trailer is made by Satallite, Italian I believe.

There are a couple of plotters on ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...me=STRK:MEWA:IT http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...me=STRK:MEWA:IT

I'm trying to re-wire the trailer board which is part of the trailer. It had never work from the day I had it, both light clusters were well corroded. I've since replaced the clusters but still have no luck, I wasn't even sure if power is getting thru! I have now bought a multi meter, the instructions are very clear on what I mustn't do with it, but a little short on how to use it. There are 5 groups of selections; 1) 'Omega': (symbol) Rx10, Rx1k 2) ACV: 500,250,50,10 3) Batt: 1.5v,9v 4) DCA:500uA,10mA,250mA 5) DCV:500,250,50,10,2.5 I know 1) is for testing a circuit isn't broken and 3) battery tester. I'm totally lost as to the rest. Can anyone shed somelight to using a multi meter please? Thanks

There are a few type of cmap about There is the original CF 85, still available from c map, but plotters for this chip had been discontinued some time ago. C map NT which is no longer available although you can still get updates for them. C map NT+ which is the current version, all singing all dancing, tells you tides, nav aids, etc. Not all plotters use c map, some use G's blue chart/map? I think it's wiser to get a plotter then a chip.

It's ok to lower the rig then clip on the lazy line in very slack tide. However if you try it in anything strongish, you WILL lose your warp!!!!!! (like I did)

I'm having problem with the p-hole. it stops p-ing out last Saturday, 7 weeks after it last went out. I had it running twice since without any problems. The mechanic reckens it just some lose dirt in the system and I should use an air line to unblock it, which I will try next weekend.

Martin you'd forgotten depriciation of your boat and engine and I would say (on average) around

Also like to add is that if both battery are on charge by the alternater from the outboard, the good battery WILL always get most of the charge unless a electronic router/selecter is fitted.

Not an expert, but I'm sure the longer the lead, the bigger the losses of voltage it would be. On SH, the cables are about 6'. Or how about leaving one battery at where it's at present and move the second battery to the front? i.e., outboard---> 3' cables ---> battery 1 ---> 7' cables ---> battery 2. At least engine pulls in enough power.

Paul, I think there's a typing error, Horse Shoe Ring is mentioned twice on the RNLI colume, in with flares as well as on its own further down. Sorry, not nit picking, you have done a wonderful job for the club and couldn't be bettered.

Very clearly explained, a few points I'd like to add are: 1) In strong tide, it might be easier to drive the boat forward a little in order for the lazy line be pulled in. 2) Adding the Alderney ring retriving system (or any similar ones), is also easy, all you do is put the rope thru the ring to start with, lower it with the retriving buoy which will also acts as an anchor buoy so in thoery other boat (reads yachts) can see you are anchor and don't try to slice your anchor rope. For instruction on how alderney ring works, do a search here, as it had been covered several times in the last 6 months.

Welcome to the club Zed. Same as you I started boat fishing cos never been able to catch anything decent shore fishing (come to think of it, I haven't caught anything decent boat fishing either.... ). There many boats from the club which launches from the south and I'm sure we can accomendate you and your son on one of our boats. Just post when you can crew in the crew section and keep an eye on crew wanted. I myself tend to launch from Lymington and you are welcome to come aboard Sweet Honey any time.

50lb of water? Will it sink or will it float? Is it any good as weigh for drifting? Or what about filling them with sand (or sand with water) from down the beach? I have lots of 20 litre plastic drums if you want any.

How about routing the line from the winch eye thru the bow roller? Then the rope is at the top and can be reached with a knife? See diagram. Manic: a lazy line is a (fairly) widely used way of anchoring. Instead od dropping the anchor from the bow, let out enough rope then cleating if off; the anchor is drop from the side. First a rope (the lazy line) is tied to the wincheye, other end with a clip and is kept inside the boat until anchoring. When you arrived at the chosen mark, the anchor is dropped from the side and once enough rope is let out, you put a loop/knot in the main anchor warp and clip it with the lazy line, which will get dragged out to the front of the boat. Now the warp is taunt and the rest of the anchor rope is still inside the boat. Advantage of this system is that you are at all time inside the boat not overhanging over the bow which is considered dangerous at times. You can up and down anchor as often as you like from the safty of your boat. Also, as Richard pointed out, when retriving th eanchor using the alderney ring, a crew can lift the rope clear of the bow and prevent it from tangling with the prop.

But Charlie, you will be forever remembered for having a small one.....

Not planning to murder anyone are you? Just use an onion sack load it up with bricks, cost next to nothing.

I use a lazy line as part of the anchor system on SH, since I learnt about it from an old copy of BFM. I'd thought it was a good and safe system, however recently I'd read it's standard practice to cut the anchor rope in an emergency. I went and had a look and realised I wouldn't be able to reach, let alone cut it, as it tied to the wincheye on the boat. So do I go back to anchor from the bow or can I wrap the line round the bow roller?

The front page says 30 boats, surely we now have a lot more than 30 now....