Newboy

I thought the battery to engine cable (starting cable) will need to be a minimum of 100+a, just to handle the CCA. I would use the 30 as a minimum for equipments. Never hurt to up it to 35 or even 50 as the cost differnce would be minimal over a few meters.

How about mounting the bait on a pennel rig like this Both the hooks are well exposed.

God, I thought the americans were lazy

"Dad's a tidler while I have a whooper....."

Defintely not ebay Try boat jumbles, around

I think I might give it a try in the new season. Can't quite decide on the colour, maybe I'll just spray them multi colour like the union jack.

No worries, I know you are always busy plus I want to get one with SH on the plane. Thanks, much appreciated.

I bought Martin's pair but they didn't fit Sweet Honey so I flocked them on ebay and someone paid

I'm with Paul on this one, all the selector switch I'd seen has only 3 terminals. Also where do you put the outboard leads? I bolted mine straight to battery 1, so it's always on, i.e., can't be switched off by the switch and therefore will not damage the rectifier on the outboard if it's accidentally switched to off.

Very interesting the way 2 way did away with the engine well. More room for the anglers, not that it was short to start with......

Nice mugshots for Martin too

Good fish Billy,and shame it wasn't caught on club boat.

The pump is wired via the switch panel and isolater as well as direct to the battery, so do I still need a 'direct switch' to the battery?

nice catches lads, any preferences on baits? or they just took anything?

Adam: a terminal bar/block is a small plastic coated metal bar/block with lots of holes, for the wires to be connected to, it's one solid bar i.e., single pole. You can get them from the auto elec web site I posted to your original rewiring thread. Or if you can't be bother to order just one item, you can make one up. Go to any diy store and get one of those white connecters, they come in a row of about 10/12 poles and you cut out 2 at a time, using it to join a 2 core cable. All you do is connect all the metal holes with a thick wire/cable and making it a single pole. Duncan: I was lazy and didn't draw the battery bit better, yes, it should have a isolating switch from the battery. The pump is also wired direct to the battery (fused) for auto activation. Not sure why do we need a sperate isolating switch for the pump. Obviously you want it to work it's at sea and the battery gets disconnect when parked up. The reason for a terminal bar is that 1) the switch panel has only 6 switches and I have 8 elec and rising 2) easier to wire gps, ff, etc to the terminal than it is to wire them to the panel, in my case it's slightly tucked away. The only problem I can see is the bare terminal, if a wire comes off and touch something and sparks, but I got a bit of stickt tape and taped over it.

The cables from battery to terminal block need to be fairly big to handle the load. Add up the loads from all the equipments. I can't remember what I used but something around 30-40a.

Not sure what you meant, but I wired Sweet Honey as follow. I take the +ve and -ve from the battery to a pair of terminal blocks. From these blocks, I run gps, ff, vhf and cabin light straight off it (all fused). A switch panel also runs off the blocks, and from there, nav lights, anchor light, horn, pump,....

I'd be interested, as the trolley jack is a little heavy to take with me everywhere. Can I pick it up from you at a later date? How much do you want for it/donation?

I had a Fladen Warbird 9' bass rod which I really like, it was used for lightish fishing plus spinning etc, but had a bit of back bone to about 10 lb. Unfortunately I snapped it before christmas and I'm looking for another to replace it. Any recommendation as to a replacement? Looking to spend no more than

How about a pic to show us what she looks like? Heard lots about the Boston but can't say I'd seen one.

Braked or unbraked? There are quite a few in Boats&outboard. How about this one? http://www.boatsandoutboards.co.uk/view/F55336/ Or this big one http://www.boatsandoutboards.co.uk/view/BEM256/

Another trick I remember from an early bfm was the use of the lazy line. If you employ the lazy line as part of your anchor system, the crew can 'hold' and 'lift' the part of rope in side the boat, clear of the water when maotoring off to prevent the pro hitting the rope.

Crayside http://www.CraysideMarine.co.uk sells these @

Something like this ........ P.S DON NOT READ IF EASILY OFFENDED, VERY VERY BAD TASTE. P.P.S The link will be deleted by midnight to save the kids from looking....

I think the 50 will still be able to get the boat on the plane, but you are probably right, around 18 and that's likely to be the max.